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New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #8

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 106
Guy Keesee wrote: phylip…..  educate the youth!!!  

Cause I was down and looking for slides. I found this GEM. Top prize for who is pictured and where when.

That looks like the Rubidoux Bouldering comp in approx 84/85
Can't name the people tho, but most likely know them.
I think one of them is Russ.


Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 106
frank minunni wrote:

I still have mine.

Me too.


Howard Griffin · · North Alabama · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 0
wendy weiss wrote:

Howard, it sounds to me -- just a guess -- that the issue isn't your shoes, but that you need to work on technique. A few (dozen?) posts ago there were some posts on the importance of footwork and how much less strength it takes to rely on your legs, rather than using your arms to pull yourself up.

For various reasons, including past injuries (rotator cuff surgery on both shoulders), I no longer climb outside, but still try to get to the gym a couple of times a week for the challenge and exercise. The older I get, the more attention I pay to body position and footwork.  

That's exactly right and I was thinking that to myself the second I hit entered.  I thought about when I used to be big into autocross and how I would constantly make changes to my car especially with tires with the thought that I just needed stickier or better tires to be a better driver.

I'm anxious to get back in the gym before they change a few of the routes that I'm stuck solving (right use of the terminology there?).  The (one and only) gym changes routes monthly but not all at once, instead they're staggered through out the month and created by different climbers.

For the other indoor climbers here do you do any kind of warm up before climbing?  
Russ Walling · · Overlord @ FishProducts · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,426
Guy Keesee wrote: phylip…..  educate the youth!!!  

Cause I was down and looking for slides. I found this GEM. Top prize for who is pictured and where when.

Good one Guy... I can name a bunch and I’m even in the pic!

Bottom row, l to r:  banny root, scott loomis, chris hartfield, next two dudes were known as the bowling ball twins
Middle: really dark head is probably the MoonFuzz Doug Munoz, then this chick called Vicki, then me, then Dick Cilley with arms folded on knees
Top row:  tough ones here... maybe Pat Nay high on the left... ?
Lon Harter · · Reno · Joined May 2018 · Points: 361

Is Dick trying to sell gear in that photo? If not might be an imposter!

Walt Heenan · · New Paltz, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 10

Frank, Awesome story. Keep em coming. We need to hear more from the Gunks Stonemasters!

Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Am I being overly sensitive?

My local bouldering club runs comps, some social some more serious. I've been  'competing' in the Masters category for maybe five years. Generally, there's not more that 2 of us. Sometimes only me. Last comp, there were two of us. I came first, which would have been my first gold medal. Every other category got a medal, even little kids. Me and the guy who came 2nd in Masters got a white A4 peice of paper with our names written on in magic marker.
Now the club has posted photos of the last comp where I came second.
They have them categorised on their site.
Under 'winners' they have photos of every other category, even one with only one kid (maybe 5?) in the category on the podium.
None of the Masters category.
Seems to me they care a lot lot more about up and coming climbers than old climbers.
I find it a little disrespectful.
Am I being overly sensitive?
Am I just needing to get to grips with 'out of important age group out of sight' mentality? 

Russ Walling · · Overlord @ FishProducts · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,426
Carl Schneider wrote: Am I being overly sensitive?

My local bouldering club runs comps, some social some more serious. I've been  'competing' in the Masters category for maybe five years. Generally, there's not more that 2 of us. Sometimes only me. Last comp, there were two of us. I came first, which would have been my first gold medal. Every other category got a medal, even little kids. Me and the guy who came 2nd in Masters got a white A4 peice of paper with our names written on in magic marker.
Now the club has posted photos of the last comp where I came second.
They have them categorised on their site.
Under 'winners' they have photos of every other category, even one with only one kid (maybe 5?) in the category on the podium.
None of the Masters category.
Seems to me they care a lot lot more about up and coming climbers than old climbers.
I find it a little disrespectful.
Am I being overly sensitive?
Am I just needing to get to grips with 'out of important age group out of sight' mentality? 

Haha...fuk!  Really?  You want a photo shoot of your “division” winners when there are never more than two of you guys and you came in second???  GTFO!

Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Russ Walling wrote:

Haha...fuk!  Really?  You want a photo shoot of your “division” winners when there are never more than two of you guys and you came in second???  GTFO!

Ummm. Yes? 

crewdog lm · · Nevada · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 25
Carl Schneider wrote: Am I being overly sensitive?

My local bouldering club runs comps, some social some more serious. I've been  'competing' in the Masters category for maybe five years. Generally, there's not more that 2 of us. Sometimes only me. Last comp, there were two of us. I came first, which would have been my first gold medal. Every other category got a medal, even little kids. Me and the guy who came 2nd in Masters got a white A4 peice of paper with our names written on in magic marker.
Now the club has posted photos of the last comp where I came second.
They have them categorised on their site.
Under 'winners' they have photos of every other category, even one with only one kid (maybe 5?) in the category on the podium.
None of the Masters category.
Seems to me they care a lot lot more about up and coming climbers than old climbers.
I find it a little disrespectful.
Am I being overly sensitive?
Am I just needing to get to grips with 'out of important age group out of sight' mentality? 

Yeah overly sensitive. But the young do not define relevance so, you're not irrelevant.  Equanimity is a good look especially at this age whereas, offended is not a good look. Worse, this sort of, hyper-seriousness of Master's athletes evokes the collective face palm. Just don't.  Take your silver medal in a 2-person field and make a joke. Buy a round for the kids and be glad you have the health to pull as hard as you did.

Buck Rogers · · Germany · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 205
Walt Heenan wrote: Frank, Awesome story. Keep em coming. We need to hear more from the Gunks Stonemasters!

Agreed!

Rgold must have a ton of stories and John Gill has even posted around here recently.

Those are two other "Legends" that I know of around here that must have some great stories!
Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190

Was bouldering a thing bitd?  Apparently it was. Pat Ament, 1969, Flagstaff Mountain, above Boulder.  

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190
Señor Arroz wrote:

I can't imagine wearing a smart watch while rock climbing. Especially at J-tree. Going to look like this stat. Are there insulin meters that use a different way of communicating? Like something that beeps if your numbers start falling?

Senor!  YOU'RE RIGHT!     You just saved me a whole lot of money.  

I've been working with another Type 1 for months to make this happen... but he's not a climber, he's a runner.  Somehow I forgot about hand jams.  And safety.  I take off everything when I climb... rings, earings, necklaces.  

I think this is just not meant to be.  Thank you so much for the visual.  I would have been so disappointed if I'd spent a fortune and figured this out on my first day of climbing.  

(Yes, the insulin meter beeps all the time, and it presumes you can pull it out from wherever (usually a bra) and see what's happening.  Plan B is to drop my pump in a second chalk bag... which seems to work ok.)

Helen...  re Senor's suggestion to you, I bought the Garmin in Reach last year.  Mainly what I wanted was that SOS button on the side.  If you press that thing, all four branches of the armed forces will coordinate your location and swoop in for a rescue.  But it would still take time.  Short of that, it also has texting capability, and so much else, including navigation... which function even when you are out of cell range.  But I don't think it would save you in time, if you were in a dangerous altercation with human or animal.  Keep yourself safe.  

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,094
Lori Milas wrote:

Senor!  YOU'RE RIGHT!     You just saved me a whole lot of money.  

I've been working with another Type 1 for months to make this happen... but he's not a climber, he's a runner.  Somehow I forgot about hand jams.  And safety.  I take off everything when I climb... rings, earings, necklaces.  

I think this is just not meant to be.  Thank you so much for the visual.  I would have been so disappointed if I'd spent a fortune and figured this out on my first day of climbing.  

(Yes, the insulin meter beeps all the time, and it presumes you can pull it out from wherever (usually a bra) and see what's happening.  Plan B is to drop my pump in a second chalk bag... which seems to work ok.)

Helen...  re Senor's suggestion to you, I bought the Garmin in Reach last year.  Mainly what I wanted was that SOS button on the side.  If you press that thing, all four branches of the armed forces will coordinate your location and swoop in for a rescue.  But it would still take time.  Short of that, it also has texting capability, and so much else, including navigation... which function even when you are out of cell range.  But I don't think it would save you in time, if you were in a dangerous altercation with human or animal.  Keep yourself safe.  

Yeah, I'm headed toward the inreach. Too many places I go with no phone service. I've read the threads on it, seems pretty good! If two of you have one, will they "talk" to each other? Is there a delay in messages?

I'm also thinking about a fitness tracker, but I think a new phone would have to happen first. After that, though, anything that works across a wide variety of activities? I'm not much good at logging stuff. 

Thanks! Helen
Tod Gunter · · Hailey, ID · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 90

Helen,
My wife traveled the southern deserts and other places alone quite a bit a while back.  She had a 80lb Chesapeake Bay retriever, a SPOT, and a .38 revolver.  She was probably fine with just the Chesapeake but she would get pretty remote so it felt good to know she could handle herself.  Dogs can be a liability though when it comes to climbing.

I hate that women have to worry about this shit. I kicked around solo and hitching hiking for years and had very few concerns or issues.

Randy · · Lassitude 33 · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,509
Lori Milas wrote: Was bouldering a thing bitd?  Apparently it was. Pat Ament, 1969, Flagstaff Mountain, above Boulder.  

Lori,

Here is THE book to get about Bouldering in the US.



Worth reading as well - is Ament's Master of Rock... try to get a copy of the First Edition - looks like this:

Randy · · Lassitude 33 · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,509
Russ Walling wrote:

Good one Guy... I can name a bunch and I’m even in the pic!

Bottom row, l to r:  banny root, scott loomis, chris hartfield, next two dudes were known as the bowling ball twins
Middle: really dark head is probably the MoonFuzz Doug Munoz, then this chick called Vicki, then me, then Dick Cilley with arms folded on knees
Top row:  tough ones here... maybe Pat Nay high on the left... ?


Wow Russ, I could only recognize a few. 

The California Bouldering Contests were lots of fun.

Here is a SuperTopo Thread (trip report) on the 1984 Contest where the OP's photos still are viewable. 1984 Bouldering Contest

As I mentioned in that thread, these contests came about through the hard work of lots of local climbers and volunteers.  Some top international climbers (who happened to be touring the US at the time), showed up for the 1984 contest - British climber Ron Fawcett actually won, an impressive feat given he had never been to Rubidoux ever before. My post on that thread sums it up pretty well:

"K[evin] P[owell] and Hensel selected almost all the problems... my job was to keep them from sandbagging the ratings too much. Rob Raker used his portable personal computer (when these were a real rarity) to help tally the scores and get results out in a timely manner.

 "Lots of people volunteered their time, ropes and effort to pull this off. The payoff was so many people getting together and having a blast."


 For each contest, I created a map and listing of all the problems and point values. Later these were reprinted by others and used as rudimentary guidebooks for the area.



The Upper Parking area, near the Cross, was where everyone gathered for the prizes and naming the winners, etc. We had T-Shirts made (designed by Bruce Pottinger - Kinnaloa), but, unfortunately, I don't think any of mine have survived. This post card was shot a few years prior to the contests.
Bob Gaines · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2001 · Points: 3,886

Hey Randy,

Here are a couple shots of Ron Fawcett, the year he won that bouldering competition. I met him the first day he arrived in Joshua Tree, and he asked me about a few routes around Hidden Valley Campground. Then he proceeded to free solo Bearded Cabbage (10c), downclimbed Dandelion (10a), then walked over and free soloed Left Ski Track (11b). Onsight! And he was just getting warmed up.

On his beloved English gritstone, he once free soloed 100 routes (all 5.10 or harder) in a day. I've seen a lot of great climbers, and he was one of the best....right up there with Bachar.

Fawcett and Largo, 1984
 Fawcett on Leave it to Beaver (12a), 1984

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 190
Guy Keesee wrote: 
Lori keep working at that crack climbing thing, Josh isn’t the best place to learn it - BTW- to much blood loss. Get yourself to the Valley, that’s where you learn all the tricks of the trade. Have fun ya all.   


We went to see Reel Rock 14 last night... (yea, I may have been the only person over the age of 25 there, but so what.   )   Every time I think of a climbing trip to Yosemite I get a bit overwhelmed...like even where to start with the planning. Camping. Route-finding. Partners.  (This is a cry for help. )  And, honestly, I'm afraid it would only feed my addiction, and I might never leave.    

Alex Honnold's mother regularly climbs at our gym, and she was at Reel Rock last night promoting her book--The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story.   When I watch her climb I think "If she can climb El Cap, so can I."  (with just a little bit of snark).  

This morning I'm thinking ... I'm so fortunate to have no injuries, no illness, no major life crises to deal with at this moment, I have wide-open space and opportunity to make something epic of the coming years... the only limiting factor really is that number (age) which is really only a number.  ('epic' is a relative term   )  

I'm still really baffled by this age thing.  It just isn't what I thought it would be.  But back to the Valley...    

PS. Looks like there is a lot of epic talk on this thread lately.  Maybe everyone has caught the same fever and is ready to double-down on adventure, goals, life itself.  "There is no Second Place."  (sorry Carl, that's not for you. )
SeƱor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Old lady H wrote:

Yeah, I'm headed toward the inreach. Too many places I go with no phone service. I've read the threads on it, seems pretty good! If two of you have one, will they "talk" to each other? Is there a delay in messages?




Yes, Inreaches can send messages to each other. Really, you can message anyone using a phone # or device. But Inreach to inreach messages are free. And there is a delay that varies. It's satellite technology so sometimes there's not a satellite in view and the message is held until it can connect. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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