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Old Pro, thoughts and opinions

Original Post
Steve Gabriel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 35

Just spent some time today with my dad going through his and his old climbing partner's gear, tossing stuff that is unsafe and identifying what could still be used (some carabiners, hexes, nuts, etc). For reference, they did most of their climbing together in the mid 80s to early 90s. In that collection is a set of some active pro that he said his partner referred to as "sliders" (see the picture here). Any idea as to who manufactured these and if there is any concern in using them today? They seem similar to the Camp ball-nut pro.

Michael Abend · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2017 · Points: 55

It’s a slide nut, but I’m not sure who made it. Quite a few companies used to make them. I’ll buy it from you. 

Carolina · · Front Range NC · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 60

Looks like it could be bomber in the right hands.  Is the yellow clip in loop worn down into the wire? or just the plastic?

Michael Abend · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2017 · Points: 55

How many are there and what numbers correspond to what colors?

Steve Gabriel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 35

Thanks for the great and quick input.

There are 4, the yellow one is a 3, I don't have the others quickly on hand at the moment. I'm thinking they could be Metolius as they look identical to the ones in this thread: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/108027233/metolius-sliders

The yellow clip has some wire exposed (you can kind of see it on the top loop in the picture).

Malcolm Daly · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

That’s a Metolius slider nut from the 80s. They were crucial in the pre-ball Nuts/RocknRoller/Slug Days. I sure they still work but they really like a parallel sided crack.

Mal

Sawyer W · · Van · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Depending on what you are trashing, I might be interested in homing it rather than letting it hit the dump.

I have a bit of a old climbing gear collection 

Steve Gabriel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 35

Michael Abend, wasn't planning on selling them, thanks for the offer though! Just figured they were worth the peer check with you folks before trusting our lives to older, less used nowadays gear.
Sawyer W, the toss pile is mostly old sling and nylon, carabiners with non closing gates that will become repurposed for non climbing (some of them Royal Robbins, pretty rad) and a rusty set of nuts. 

Sawyer W · · Van · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
Steve Gabriel wrote: Michael Abend, wasn't planning on selling them, thanks for the offer though! Just figured they were worth the peer check with you folks before trusting our lives to older, less used nowadays gear.
Sawyer W, the toss pile is mostly old sling and nylon, carabiners with non closing gates that will become repurposed for non climbing (some of them Royal Robbins, pretty rad) and a rusty set of nuts. 

Gotcha, 

Enjoy the rrs ;)
nutstory · · Ajaccio, Corsica, FR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

METOLIUS MOUNTAIN PRODUCTS Slider #0 to #4 (1983)

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10

Sliders are pretty bomber, better than ‘Quickies’, ‘Rockn’ Rollers’, and various other types working on the same principle. We went through a period in the late ‘80s-early ‘90s where there was a lot of experimentation, and I spent good money on one of each type. Still have them on a binder in the old gear locker. Most were pretty worthless, the sliders pretty decent.

Scott E · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 342

Would they fit in a ⅜” bolt hole? They are a similar design to some RBs I’ve seen

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Other than the perlon that might be attached to some of the stuff, why would you think it would be unsafe?  Some pieces of gear have been improved (camming devices), but the old ones still work just fine.  

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290
Fat Dad wrote: Other than the perlon that might be attached to some of the stuff, why would you think it would be unsafe?  Some pieces of gear have been improved (camming devices), but the old ones still work just fine.  

Yep, I still have first generation Friends that work perfectly and are perfectly safe.   They aren’t in my front line arsenal but i wouldn’t hesitate to use them.  

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,936
Scott E wrote: Would they fit in a ⅜” bolt hole? They are a similar design to some RBs I’ve seen

I believe there's a saying about there about a square peg in a round hole.

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10
Scott E wrote: Would they fit in a ⅜” bolt hole? They are a similar design to some RBs I’ve seen

Had those too. Put up a few routes and people bitched about finding the holes. Different principle IMO. The sliders are direct descendants of the stacked nut idea in Robbins’ books, which always sounded cool and clever, but somehow not much practical application.

jc5462 · · Hereford, Arizona · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Metolius Slider, from 1980's. I have a complete set and they work fine, along with Go Pro Rock-N-Rollers, D-Best Quickie, HB Cobra, KONG Sliders, LOWE/Trango Ball Nuts, and Removable Bolts.

These will not work in place of a RB. They are square and at least 1/2" wide.

Stacked Pro does work well if you practice with it. Todays climbers now have CAMS and can "Plug and Play" versus having to get creative. I just taught a climbing course a couple weeks ago and spent a lot of time going over pro placement and anchor building. I showed all kinds of placements (stacked nuts, Stacked Hexes, Tri-Cam/Hex stack, Chockstones. Challenge your mind! (it's fun and interesting)

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,284

Why did you toss it & what do you think is going to happen to it? That old nylon, if it is still supple, is fine for TR anchors at least & it will clog the landfills, not decompose for decades at which point it will add to the chocking glut of plastic that threatens to poison the planet. But good job

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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