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Gym Climbing Whip


Original Post
master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 247

I was climbing at the local gym when I heard a loud crack and then thud. I turned to see one climber on the ground immediately in tears and the belayer with his jaw sagging on the ground. I went over to inspect and this is what I walked up too.


Hopefully this will help prevent accidents in the future so several observations:

1. The first bolt may be too close to the ground, yes this can be more dangerous than setting a few feet higher
2. Never use an old rope
3. Thoroughly test your rope for squishy spots before climbing

Hope this helps and never forget the three rules of climbing.
1. Don't poop
2. Don't die
3. Have fun

Enjoy
Dylan Pike · · Sandy, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 167

Why is the figure 8 on a bight clipped to that draw? Shouldn't that have been tied to the climber's harness? The photos don't make sense if we are talking about a falling lead climber.

Ben Keller · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

Agree with Dylan, seems like a weird setup. Why is the frayed end of the rope in the first pic tangled around the belay locker (which should be attached to the belayer's harness loop)? 1st clip looks to be standard height off the ground for a gym though, especially at an overhand walk through.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612
Dylan Pike wrote: Why is the figure 8 on a bight clipped to that draw? Shouldn't that have been tied to the climber's harness? The photos don't make sense if we are talking about a falling lead climber.

Yeah, neither photo makes any sense.   Looks more like pilot/co-pilot error rather than any gear issue.   

If it IS  a gear issue, I'd have to guess the biner on the draw is worn and quite sharp.   But I suspect it's really some gumby mistake.

Tom Sherman · · Bristol, RI · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 417

Yeah ditto, all sorts of fuckery, in those pictures. Safe lead falls and acceptable forces require a dynamic rope to slide through carabiners and protection. If this photo were precisely after and not mocked up for re-creation of the incident, then that draw/bolt/structure should be inspected for damage.

lostlazy · · Hoboken, NJ · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0
Dylan Pike wrote: Why is the figure 8 on a bight clipped to that draw? Shouldn't that have been tied to the climber's harness? The photos don't make sense if we are talking about a falling lead climber.

Agreed; there is definitely missing information regarding this situation.

Tom Sherman · · Bristol, RI · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 417

Pretty sure he's just fucking with us, the core shot is tied to the biner... figure eight bight clipped to the draw. Quick somewhat drop acid and complete a crime scene reenactment for us.

Matt N · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 384

Someone did a "watch-this-butter-knife-cut-a-weighted-rope-test"

Those photos do not indicate someone was climbing. 

Ziggy Chalkdust · · nowhere · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 24

Was the climber ok? Were they wearing a helmet? This is why you should always climb with doubles and retire ropes after every fall. Where was the gym staff when this went down??????

Brandon Fields · · Boulder · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 500

Did you lean over the fallen climber and yell, “LOL GET WRECKED NEWB!!!”?

Also, please explain what we’re seeing in these photos.

Ziggy Chalkdust · · nowhere · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 24

by the look of that fuzzy rope this was inevitable.

B Dub · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Mesa Rim FTW

Mark P Thomas · · Draperderr, by Bangerter, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 1,652

From the title, at first I thought this thread was about training motivation...

Malcolm Daly · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

The rope in the shredded rope photo looks like it has a Grigri kink in it. Other than that I have no idea what’s going on. Hope the deckee is okay.

Beer-Muscled Has-Been · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Obviously not a soft catch!

Matt Pierce · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 278
Tom Sherman wrote: Yeah ditto, all sorts of fuckery

For sure...fuckery

m Mobes · · MDI, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 910

Ropes exploding, thats whats going on!

Rope halfway clipped in to the draw and stuck between the gate and biner, big boy falls

  

Godzilla is okay but his fans are real idiots NAWMEAN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

This is a great thread.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612
m Mobes wrote: Ropes exploding, thats whats going on!

Would that be from the photon torpedoes or the phasers?

Cantina Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

I always tie a figure 8 on a bight before clipping. You can never be too safe! 

J P · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Clearly the leader was lead soloing and took a factor 2 fall onto his first piece.  Never lead solo in the gym!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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