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Anchors and logistics BigWall YouTube tutorial

Original Post
Christian Black · · Yosemite, Ca · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 290

Hey guys! I made an episode on my friends highlining YouTube channel about the systems I use for hauling and anchor management when I do walls. I think this might be helpful for those trying to learn so that they can see the whole system start to finish. Critiques or comments welcome. Enjoy!

https://youtu.be/N7VNdONAIy4

Ken Tubbs · · Eugene, OR · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1

Fixed it for you:

https://youtu.be/N7VNdONAIy4​​​

Christian Black · · Yosemite, Ca · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 290
Ken Tubbs wrote: Fixed it for you:

https://youtu.be/N7VNdONAIy4

Thank you! I have sub-par internet skills

John Shultz · · Osaka, Japan · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 45

Hey hombre!

I enjoyed your video. I think you have some streamlined systems there.  

My buddy and I ran something similar. But in place of the Quad, we used a Metolius PAS and in place of the sling for the haul line, we used a Metolius Rope hook. The rope hook is totally worth it, as you can easily spin the rope on it for block leading. Very underrated piece of wall kit, IMHO.

By my measurements:

  • 24" sling 51 g.; Fish rope bag 171 g; Metolius rope hook 45g!
For the lead line, we don't recoil at the anchor, but use a huge DMM Boa carabiner when following and clip periodic back up loops. We then just clip that Boa to the anchor, and take the loops out as the leader is leading. This is an Andy K. trick that saves a labor intensive step and is quite neat and tidy. You can spin the loops around the big biner, as necessary.

Thanks for the video!

Cheers from Osaka,

John
Christian Black · · Yosemite, Ca · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 290
John Shultz wrote: Hey hombre!

I enjoyed your video. I think you have some streamlined systems there.  

My buddy and I ran something similar. But in place of the Quad, we used a Metolius PAS and in place of the sling for the haul line, we used a Metolius Rope hook. The rope hook is totally worth it, as you can easily spin the rope on it for block leading. Very underrated piece of wall kit, IMHO.

By my measurements:
  • 24" sling 51 g.; Fish rope bag 171 g; Metolius rope hook 45g!
For the lead line, we don't recoil at the anchor, but use a huge DMM Boa carabiner when following and clip periodic back up loops. We then just clip that Boa to the anchor, and take the loops out as the leader is leading. This is an Andy K. trick that saves a labor intensive step and is quite neat and tidy. You can spin the loops around the big biner, as necessary.

Thanks for the video!

Cheers from Osaka,

John

Hey dude! Since I didn’t do a segment on jugging, I totally forgot that I normally do the exact same thing with the backup loops on the large biner for rope management, it works super well. Thanks for pointing that out! As for the hooks, that’s pretty cool how light they are, it just seems like it might be annoying to free climb with giant hooks on the harness. Thanks for the feedback, and glad you enjoyed the video! 

John Shultz · · Osaka, Japan · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 45

Hey hombre! Right on. Pretty cool how you guys put that together with the bolt hangers tied to a tree.

The Metolius rope hooks clip shut in a circle, like maybe 3.5 inches in diameter. Pretty compact.

Cheers!

John Godino · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

I can vouch for Christian's video.
It has some great tips in it, nicely camera and audio, in a beautiful spot, with some good humor.
Nicely done, thanks for that contribution!

And Christian, one thing to keep in mind: While the Metolius rope hook is indeed small and compact, if you're using a tagline to bring up all the stuff you need at the anchor (haul rope, haul kit, anchor kit) you can send up the rope hook as well. No need to have it on your harness when you are leading.

Christian Black · · Yosemite, Ca · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 290

Thanks for all of the positive feedback guys, I appreciate it! I’ll have to try out those rope hooks if I get a hand on some!

If we were to do a follow up video, what information and systems would you like to see? I was thinking that since this video largely covered the jobs of the leader, the second video could cover the follower and skills like:
-efficient jugging on slabby and steep terrain
-passing and cleaning pieces on traversing pitches
-lower out methods and tricks
-methods to back up acsenders
-cleaning and re-racking efficiently

Anything else you would like to see?

Also for reference, my friend made this video about bigwall logistics as a prequel to the one I did, but I thought most of his systems were garbage which is why we did my episode

John Shultz · · Osaka, Japan · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 45
Christian Black wrote: Thanks for all of the positive feedback guys, I appreciate it! I’ll have to try out those rope hooks if I get a hand on some!

If we were to do a follow up video, what information and systems would you like to see? I was thinking that since this video largely covered the jobs of the leader, the second video could cover the follower and skills like:
-efficient jugging on slabby and steep terrain
-passing and cleaning pieces on traversing pitches
-lower out methods and tricks
-methods to back up acsenders
-cleaning and re-racking efficiently

Anything else you would like to see?

Also for reference, my friend made this video about bigwall logistics as a prequel to the one I did, but I thought most of his systems were garbage which is why we did my episode

Those all sound awesome to me, hombre. Looking forward to it. 


Cheers!
Sam Skovgaard · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 87
Christian Black wrote: 

If we were to do a follow up video, what information and systems would you like to see? 

First off, I love your videos: well produced, good content organization, and funny to boot!  Keep up the good work.

1) seconding techniques: cleaning, lowering out, jugging efficiency, clearing edges while jugging

2) hauling: on-location, real-world hauling, both standard hauling from the anchor and far-end hauling

3) vertical camping: finer points of portaledge setup and organization, fun ideas on how to pass the time, surviving bad weather, food ideas

BigRed11 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 832

Hey Christian, from sharing a bivvy ledge with you on the Salathe this summer I know you have lots to share on how to keep stoke and morale high :)

Christian Black · · Yosemite, Ca · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 290
BigRed11 wrote: Hey Christian, from sharing a bivvy ledge with you on the Salathe this summer I know you have lots to share on how to keep stoke and morale high :)

Tutus and pocket trap music is all it takes for me ;)

NegativeK · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

I'd love to see things like how to bail gracefully (and ungracefully on routes where bailing is really hard), keep things organized at night, and pass/be passed.

Yosoymilk · · Bellingham · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 15

A few people I've climbed walls with get pissed when they reach the anchor and I am hauling the way portrayed in your video.
They get concerned by the fact that the haul is, although backed-up, not redundant in sense of equalization. In other words,
if the primary haul bolt failed, it would shock load the rest of the anchor. They may be right, but I usually roll my eyes, as the odds of a bolt
failing during a haul seems astronomical. What are your thoughts?

Christian Black · · Yosemite, Ca · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 290
Yosoymilk wrote: A few people I've climbed walls with get pissed when they reach the anchor and I am hauling the way portrayed in your video.
They get concerned by the fact that the haul is, although backed-up, not redundant in sense of equalization. In other words,
if the primary haul bolt failed, it would shock load the rest of the anchor. They may be right, but I usually roll my eyes, as the odds of a bolt
failing during a haul seems astronomical. What are your thoughts?

If you suspect the bolt is going to blow with a ~3kn max load, then of course probably don’t haul off of the bolt and instead haul off of a masterpoint. I generally don’t worry about equalization with good bolts, only redundancy. 

BigRed11 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 832

If it's good enough for Hudon, it's good enough for me:


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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