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Red rock sport shoes

Original Post
Ethan Fletcher · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Hi!
I am playing a sport climbing trip to red rocks this January. I was curious what shoes I should get. I have a pair of La Sportiva skawama. But was looking at other shoes. Should I get something that’s let’s aggressive? I was looking at the Scarpa trad shoe or the boostic

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212

Skwamas are fine.  Depending on your grade you might be doing a fair amount of vertical edging, so stiffer shoes might be helpful.  If the Boostics fit your feet they’d be a great option.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 167

You need at least 2 pairs for every route, sometimes three.  I will do a quick change mid-route depending on that the next move requires.  If I am only doing a single foot jam, sometimes I get by with only swapping out one shoe, which makes things much easier.  Always have at least 1 severe downturn shoe, a high top and something for blank faces on you at all times.

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 5
Matt Himmelstein wrote: You need at least 2 pairs for every route, sometimes three.  I will do a quick change mid-route depending on that the next move requires.  If I am only doing a single foot jam, sometimes I get by with only swapping out one shoe, which makes things much easier.  Always have at least 1 severe downturn shoe, a high top and something for blank faces on you at all times.

A great way to handle this is to wear a softer more down-turned shoe inside a stiffer flat shoe, so you only need to shed the outer shoe mid-route to go into send mode! Best to keep the outer shoe Velcro so you dont pump out fiddling with the laces. 

Jens K. · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 185

Ethan, the entire red rock loop doesn’t feature an edging crux so soft shoes are the ticket. If you are into sport climbing, be sure to visit the dozen or so premiere limestone crags (most are the same distance from the strip as the red rocks). 

Ethan Fletcher · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Great thanks for the advice! I’m a 5.10 climber hoping to be at 5.11 by the trip. I just got a pair of Katakis for edging and comfort. The 41 and my skawama are 40. The Katakis are super comfy. But I get some bend in the toe on small holds. Well see how they stretch. My street shoe is a 42.

5.Seven Kevin · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Bro its reds rock you're already a 5.11 climber!!1!

Zeb Martin · · Davis · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
Ethan Fletcher wrote: Great thanks for the advice! I’m a 5.10 climber hoping to be at 5.11 by the trip. I just got a pair of Katakis for edging and comfort. The 41 and my skawama are 40. The Katakis are super comfy. But I get some bend in the toe on small holds. Well see how they stretch. My street shoe is a 42.

For edging and comfort is an oxymoron

Ethan Fletcher · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Zeb Martin wrote:

For edging and comfort is an oxymoron

I was planing on 40.5 but thought I needed a 41 but after climbing today I should have went down a size there comfy but I don’t trust them on holds with the toe flex I get

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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