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WG beta


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Mike Spencer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Hey all, looking to get out on the WG and wondering if there is any helpful beta that isnt on MP. Thanks in advance!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,861

Does ChauvinGuides still have their WG page on their website?

Josh B · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

You can link pitches everywhere except the pipe pitch. It's a good idea to be first on first off because it's pretty loose and you're in the line of fire the whole way up. You can get some good belays that incorporate rock horns and pinches so bring some cord for that.

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 42

The  5.8  variation  is better, but it is still a giant choss pile

Nick Woodman · · Saco, ME · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 1

That's a very, very broad question. Is there something specific you are concerned about? I mean, people can tell you the obvious traps to avoid based on personal preference, such as be very mindful of which trail you go up for the approach, be mindful of rope drag etc but if there's something specific you want to know then ask away! 

Dana Bartlett · · CO · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 890

It has a few areas of loose rock, but compared to many alpine routes they are trivial. Route finding is not difficult, protection is good, and the approach is obvious. The pitches are short and the grades are accurate.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

grades are all accurate except for the last pitch?? I have never found the 5.7 finish?? the last half a dozen or so times I have been up there I opted for the 5.9 finish as it has better gear. the supposedly 5.7 finish is crap gear in a small flare with sloper holds... . (used to be bomber pins but someone stole them)

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 170

How about, go climb it, have an adventure without knowing every specific detail ever.   It's an alpine-style route anyway.  Pretend there is no internet.

Rob Rogowicz · · Danville, NH · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 15
Russ Keane wrote: How about, go climb it, have an adventure without knowing every specific detail ever.   It's an alpine-style route anyway.  Pretend there is no internet.

Isn't this the reason MP exist, to get that extra beta that's not in guide books? 

Anyways, WG is just a whole lot of fun on amazing feature at a doable grade for most. First pitch surprised me, a little burly but secure. Second pitch can easily be linked. If you are comfortable with a little 5.8 I def recommend that next variation. The way it links into pipe is perfect. I linked both by accident and was gassed. Crux moves above pipe were reachy and awkward for me at 5'7"... Next pitch was fun about 5.6 and leads you to where you can go straight for the 5.9 finish or break left into what I thought was a fun 5.7ish corner to the top. Belay from giant boulders at top. Then enjoy the ledge for a while. But most of MP beta is good. Enjoy and safe climbing!

Tommy Salami · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,436

The climbing will be the most trivial part of your gilman experience, definitely just go do it.

Etha Williams · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 259
Nick Goldsmith wrote: grades are all accurate except for the last pitch?? I have never found the 5.7 finish?? the last half a dozen or so times I have been up there I opted for the 5.9 finish as it has better gear. the supposedly 5.7 finish is crap gear in a small flare with sloper holds... . (used to be bomber pins but someone stole them)

When I was up there a few weeks ago the pins were very much intact (there were so many I started worrying about running out of draws), and I didn’t find any of the climbing harder than 5.7.

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 170

"Isn't this the reason MP exist, to get that extra beta that's not in guide books?"

Sure, but the 300 comments on the Whitney-Gilman page weren't enough?

Rob Rogowicz · · Danville, NH · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 15
Russ Keane wrote: "Isn't this the reason MP exist, to get that extra beta that's not in guide books?"

It is, indeed.  But the 300 comments on the Whitney-Gilman page weren't enough?

Im guessing because the OP posted to the forum and even mentioned MP beta..... it wasn't. Your first comment was better left unsaid. You didn't answer or contribute anything worth his time. It was only meant to be condescending and that's not cool.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

The version that I did of the last pitch has likely fallen off a few times since I have been up there ;)

Mike Spencer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

We did the WG yesterday! Thanks to all the positive beta!

Christian DuBois · · Boston, MA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
Etha Williams wrote:

When I was up there a few weeks ago the pins were very much intact (there were so many I started worrying about running out of draws), and I didn’t find any of the climbing harder than 5.7.

That’s only cause we didn’t climb the 5.7+ pitch.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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