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Climbing Anchors

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N Gonzalez · · Porterville, Ca · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

I'm sure someone has something to say. It  comes down to personal preference  And our environment. If you can tell about your  go to anchors what would you say? 

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,144

My go-to anchor is to get some solid anchor points and attach myself to them.

John Clark · · San Francisco · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 477

Two okay hands and two okay feet, two great feet, two great hands, one great hand and one great foot, two okay hands and a great foot, two okay feet and a great hand, one perfect hole and a viagra, two shiny bolts, a good nut and a solid piton, two bomber cams, three okay cams, three solid nuts, three okay bolts, two bomber pitons, a solid tree, or a really nice slug horn/chockstone. That's pretty much it for me.

Aron Roberts · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 71
My go-to anchor is to get some solid anchor points and attach myself to them.
Shit, I've been doing it so wrong this whole time. 
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 210
good anchors are good
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
N Gonzalez wrote: I'm sure someone has something to say. It  comes down to personal preference  And our environment. If you can tell about your  go to anchors what would you say? 

What does "our environment" have to do with anchors? Your question is vague.

Rock Monkey · · Bonita · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 15
N Gonzalez wrote: I'm sure someone has something to say. It  comes down to personal preference  And our environment. If you can tell about your  go to anchors what would you say? 

TRAD, top rope, sinking bodies, boating, my tent in Jtree wind? Different environments call for different anchors. Watcha, watcha, watcha want? 

N Gonzalez · · Porterville, Ca · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

What have learned to use as your anchors sport climbing and trad? Which were considered good anchors but failed? What's fast,  to move on a multi pitch? All day top rope? Making knots in a runner, is that something people still do?

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290
N Gonzalez wrote: What have learned to use as your anchors sport climbing and trad? Which were considered good anchors but failed? 
If they failed those people aren't around to tell you about it.


Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 106
N Gonzalez wrote: I'm sure someone has something to say. It  comes down to personal preference  And our environment. If you can tell about your  go to anchors what would you say? 
 
Just don't
t leave the empties at the crags.
Pack them out!


Dan Gozdz · · Louisville, CO · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0
N Gonzalez wrote: What have learned to use as your anchors sport climbing and trad? Which were considered good anchors but failed? What's fast,  to move on a multi pitch? All day top rope? Making knots in a runner, is that something people still do?

For all day TR I use a quad made of 20 or 30' (I have two) 7mm Bluewater accessory cord with 3 or 4 lockers. One or both bolts have lockers and the rope has two lockers (one screwgate, one BD rocklock magnetron with the gate towards the rock) and sometimes a non-locker between them to reduce the wear. I would probably use Edelrid Bulletproofs for the rope biners if I was getting new gear for this purpose.

For sport with experienced people, two quickdraws with the spines trapping the rope so the gates are facing away from each other.

For trad:
Bolted anchors - usually two lockers with clove hitches. Put a figure 8 on a bight in between for a masterpoint and to clip any extra gear onto that I don't want hanging on me. Or a quick quad or equalette out of a quadruple length sling or accessory cord.
Gear anchors - almost always an equalette out of a quad length sling or accessory cord if we're not swinging leads and even if we are. If we're swinging leads I'll sometimes just use the rope and either make an equalette with it or just clove to all 3 pieces and call it good.
Julian H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 5
that guy named seb wrote:
good anchors are good

Wrong color

5.Seven Kevin · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Ask John Turtledong to mentor you.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

I prefer a Danforth or the Manson Boss, depending on the nature of the bottom and the swell.

Or two good 1/2 inch bolts in good rock.

over thinking · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 25

finally a good thread

the replies are glorious 

Mark A · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 91

What I use anything less is just playing with your life
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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