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Good routes in Squamish area to prep for Kain's route in Bugaboos?

Original Post
Jason Erickson · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Trying to be as best prepared for Kain's route as possible in the bugaboos and will have a few days in Banff & Squamish before.
Looking for any suggestions on routes that would be good in Squamish to climb (either Multi or Single pitch)

Thank you in advance!

David Hutchinson · · Bellingham. WA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

Check out  stephabegg.com for a Kain trip report and extraordinary information from an amazing climber. The Smoke Bluff Connection is a Squamish classic and gets you in the area to do multiple classic moderates in a day. Best visited mid week. I don’t know your Alpine comfort level or your trad lead level thus Steph’s site as a recommendation. Squamish Rock climbing site is also a good place to get recommendations from folks.

Jason Erickson · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0
David Hutchinson wrote: Check out  stephabegg.com for a Kain trip report and extraordinary information from an amazing climber. The Smoke Bluff Connection is a Squamish classic and gets you in the area to do multiple classic moderates in a day. Best visited mid week. I don’t know your Alpine comfort level or your trad lead level thus Steph’s site as a recommendation. Squamish Rock climbing site is also a good place to get recommendations from folks.

Appreciate it! Her trip reports are exactly what i was looking for

Taj Flora · · Hawai'i Island · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Did you already go? If not, are you looking for partners? If so, how are the conditions? Looking to be in the Bugs early-mid Sept. 

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

i think it would be tough to really use squamish routes for the kain route.  i would think your main difficulties would be altitude and maybe navigation, neither of which would be very trainable at squamish.  a better bet that is somewhat close to squamish (relatively, considering you are coming from NC) would be the nesakwatch spires.

Tim Richards · · McMinnville, OR · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Taj, can you go this weekend?? I’m looking for a partner.

Ryan Sheridan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

I would highly recommend the NW ridge of Buggaboo spire. The descent is the Kain route so you get to do both and it isn’t much harder. As for training, get some alpine climbs in and glacier travel experience. The Buggaboo snow patch col will likely be the crux of that route and it’s steep snow 

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,989

Think you mean the NE Ridge, but I would say that is significantly harder than the Kain Ridge.  Kain really only has one technical section, you leave your pack at the base and you can turn around and walk off at any point.  The bivy sites on top of Bugaboo are from NE Ridge climbers.

Ryan Sheridan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25
ddriver wrote: Think you mean the NE Ridge, but I would say that is significantly harder than the Kain Ridge.  Kain really only has one technical section, you leave your pack at the base and you can turn around and walk off at any point.  The bivy sites on top of Bugaboo are from NE Ridge climbers.

I feel like the Kain route is a 5.6 best suitable for the 5.9 leader . Ie; complex route finding, glacier approach , long route and descent

The NE ridge is also a 5.8 best suited for a solid 5.9 leader . 
I think that if you are truly in shape for the Kain, you might as well do the actual rock climb on the NE ridge.  If you arnt solid at 5.9 you are putting yourself and others in danger by climbing the Kain anyways. 
Taj Flora · · Hawai'i Island · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Tim Richards wrote: Taj, can you go this weekend?? I’m looking for a partner.

Sorry no can. Headed into the Bugs on Sept 7th

Jason Erickson · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Thank you all for the info. Definitely was an eye opener to alpine climbing and agree that squamish is not really comparable as the climbing isn't the crux of the day.
The B.S. Col is still in condition, fading very quick though and there rock fall on the skiers right on snowpatch below the Col. *note there is no snow left on snowpatch and it is just ice*.

If you go for Kain, just ignore all the damn Cairns and blast the ridge until you hit a very obvious section to rope up. We lost far too much time route finding/being off route/seconding guessing our sevles and had a very humbling time for our first alpine experience.

If you aren't comfortable downclimbing the BS col in slushy ice in the PM, you need 2 ropes. 

Ryan Sheridan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25
Jason Erickson wrote: Thank you all for the info. Definitely was an eye opener to alpine climbing and agree that squamish is not really comparable as the climbing isn't the crux of the day.
The B.S. Col is still in condition, fading very quick though and there rock fall on the skiers right on snowpatch below the Col. *note there is no snow left on snowpatch and it is just ice*.

If you go for Kain, just ignore all the damn Cairns and blast the ridge until you hit a very obvious section to rope up. We lost far too much time route finding/being off route/seconding guessing our sevles and had a very humbling time for our first alpine experience.

If you aren't comfortable downclimbing the BS col in slushy ice in the PM, you need 2 ropes. 

Thanks for checking back in. Good work getting up there!

David Hutchinson · · Bellingham. WA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

Agree with Ryan about getting to the Bugaboos! It is a great place. Way to follow through and follow up with us.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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