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Bouldering V grades to Yosemite Decimal System

Original Post
Jesse Podero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

This may have been discussed before, but if it has it’s pretty well hidden in the depths of MP. Anyways, I’m a pretty strong when it comes to bouldering generally in the V6 range outdoors/ indoors, but when it comes to sport climbing I find myself struggling on the comparative 5.12+ grades. Is there something I’m missing out on here? I feel like it shouldn’t be that much different when it comes down to it since it’s basically the same thing. 

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,265
Jesse Podero wrote: This may have been discussed before, but if it has it’s pretty well hidden in the depths of MP. Anyways, I’m a pretty strong when it comes to bouldering generally in the V6 range outdoors/ indoors, but when it comes to sport climbing I find myself struggling on the comparative 5.12+ grades. Is there something I’m missing out on here? I feel like it shouldn’t be that much different when it comes down to it since it’s basically the same thing. 

It’s either a lack of power endurance or just a lack of focus while on a rope. Are you falling off because you’re pumped or falling off because of a lack of power?


It is also totally possible that you’re bouldering at a soft area. 
Layne Zuelke · · Baton Rouge, LA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30

Not unusual at all. Two totally different disciplines. Im the opposite and climb harder grades roped than I can on boulders. I think it boils down to experience on the rope, endurance, grip strength and technique vs pure power which I desperately lack. I’ve never let it bother me. 

Nathan Sullivan · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

One thing I learned from the IFSC guys and girls - use. every. rest.  Even if you aren't pumped yet.  Finding rests on a sustained 5.12 might take some talent, of course, but it can make a huge difference versus trying to "boulder" up a route with pure power endurance.

Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 132
http://peripheralscrutiny.blogspot.com/2011/06/landscape-new-look-at-route-grades.html?m=1

V6 would be a one move wonder 12+. If your routes are longer or more sustained, cruxes would be more in the neighborhood of V3/V4. This implies a lack of endurance, or shortcomings with respect to route climbing tactics.
Daniel James · · Chicago / it's complicated · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 1,219

Where you leading?  A place like Horseshoe Canyon where the routes aren't long and may just have a short boulder crux would probably get you higher grades (besides the fact that HCR is soft) than say any of the overhanging jug haul enduro-fests at the Red.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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