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ASCA at Bowman

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Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Hey guys, ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association) has been pretty active out at Bowman replacing anchors and hardware especially those with washer hangers and been adding Climb Tech mussies to increase safety. Fun House, Gum Drop and Candy Land are in good shape now.

Asking the community to direct me to any sketchy anchors or bad bolts at Larry Land, Boy Scout Wall, Rediscovery Domes etc that they know to particularly need some help?

Thanks!

And donate to the ASCA! Greg Barnes works to get us local stewards quality hardware to re-bolt and increase safety and it all comes from your donations.

wcayler · · Chico CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 224

I go out there pretty frequently, if I see something that needs to be replaced I’ll respond back here.

The only one that comes to mind right now is Ripple Effect at the cove. I was on it about 3 weeks ago, a direct start was added but also looks like a new separate anchor was added there weren’t rap rings, Mussies or quicklinks at the new anchor, it is just bolts. You can easily traverse over to the anchors of flying snakes but that defeats the purpose of a separate anchor

Pavel K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 211

Thank you so much for your work at Bowman and Emeralds!! Happy to hear ASCA donations get used at some of the areas I frequent.

Colby Wangler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 241

Carville and I added the new anchors on ripple effect, didn’t have hardware at the time for lower offs. Someone else can can happily add them.

scottthelen · · Genoa, Nv · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 125

Scotland needs help

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,450

If you want to do something nearby, Auburn has a LOT of old rusty bolts in the lower quarry. Scale wall probably could use a total rebolt and there is lots to do in Horshoe canyon. I know the beginning of Human Oddity is in a water streak and the first several bolts are in poor condition. Some other routes have had their first bolts chipped and should be reinstalled. 

Brian Wirtz · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 5

You guys have done an amazing job out there.  I'll keep an eye out when I head out there.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
caughtinside wrote: If you want to do something nearby, Auburn has a LOT of old rusty bolts in the lower quarry. Scale wall probably could use a total rebolt and there is lots to do in Horshoe canyon. I know the beginning of Human Oddity is in a water streak and the first several bolts are in poor condition. Some other routes have had their first bolts chipped and should be reinstalled. 

Absolutely right. The long term solution there is going to all glue ins.

This will likely be a project once the weather cools.
Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 854

Count me in on the quarry project HB. 

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Will do, Bobby.  We just need a stretch of cool weather mid week.

Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 854
caughtinside wrote: If you want to do something nearby, Auburn has a LOT of old rusty bolts in the lower quarry. Scale wall probably could use a total rebolt and there is lots to do in Horshoe canyon. I know the beginning of Human Oddity is in a water streak and the first several bolts are in poor condition. Some other routes have had their first bolts chipped and should be reinstalled. 

What is the story on the chopping of the first bolts on routes at the quarry? Do you remember which routes?

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,450
Bobby Hutton wrote:

What is the story on the "chipping" of the first bolts on routes at the quarry? Do you remember which routes?

sorry that is an autocorrect on the iphone. should read "chopping." 

A long time ago, I think it was 2005 or thereabouts, someone chopped a route or two (Community Chest for sure and I think most of On Demand) and also chopped the first bolt on at least 2 routes at the mouth of Horseshoe Canyon (the .11d for sure.  You can still top rope it but not safe to lead w/o 1st bolt.  I think maybe one other route got this treatment).  I'm pretty sure Community Chest and On Demand were reestablished when the Quarry reopened to climbing a few years back. 

Not sure why the routes/bolts were chopped. We speculated at the time it was either the ASRA because they did not want climbers in there, or that someone chopped the routes because of some kind of beef with the FA.  

That's the best I can do, it's a long time ago at this point and climbing in the Quarry is no longer controversial. 
Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 854

Interesting. I believe you are right about Community Chest and On Demand having new bolts. I have seen the chopped bolts on Memorial wall and it is interesting to know the history. I will keep an eye out for those other missing bolts at Horseshoe Canyon next time I out there. Thanks for sharing the story. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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