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Clear-cut routes at Devil's Lake?

Original Post
John Sherman · · Sheboygan, WI · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I've been climbing occasionally at Devil's Lake for the last few months, and I'm looking to start pushing myself harder. However, of the few climbs I have done so far, I have found it hard to feel confident that I was staying on-route and not wandering, even with the guidebook and MP descriptions/comments. Beta along the lines of "make sure you don't use the nice holds on X" probably makes total sense to someone, but leaves me feeling like I am either cheating past the crux, or making things harder on myself because I avoided a great pocket that looked too easy.

I'd like to be able to climb and push myself without these lingering doubts. Are there suggestions of routes (10s, 11s, 12s) that aren't quite so contrived? 

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,540
John Sherman wrote: I've been climbing occasionally at Devil's Lake for the last few months, and I'm looking to start pushing myself harder. However, of the few climbs I have done so far, I have found it hard to feel confident that I was staying on-route and not wandering, even with the guidebook and MP descriptions/comments. Beta along the lines of "make sure you don't use the nice holds on X" probably makes total sense to someone, but leaves me feeling like I am either cheating past the crux, or making things harder on myself because I avoided a great pocket that looked too easy.

I'd like to be able to climb and push myself without these lingering doubts. Are there suggestions of routes (10s, 11s, 12s) that aren't quite so contrived? 

Call me from the crag and I will tell you what's on and what's off.

951-527-7959
Jack C · · Utah · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

The heck we'll tell you what's "on!" You're the Verm! You get to tell all of us chumps what's on!

jon jugenheimer · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,690

Hourglass always got me, WTF is “on”?!?  

Grayson Glazer · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2017 · Points: 40

Just make the route a bit harder.  Worse case scenario is, it's just gonna make you stronger.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
John Sherman wrote: I've been climbing occasionally at Devil's Lake for the last few months, and I'm looking to start pushing myself harder. However, of the few climbs I have done so far, I have found it hard to feel confident that I was staying on-route and not wandering, even with the guidebook and MP descriptions/comments. Beta along the lines of "make sure you don't use the nice holds on X" probably makes total sense to someone, but leaves me feeling like I am either cheating past the crux, or making things harder on myself because I avoided a great pocket that looked too easy.

I'd like to be able to climb and push myself without these lingering doubts. Are there suggestions of routes (10s, 11s, 12s) that aren't quite so contrived? 

Climb all the classic cracks (Brinton, Congratulations, Sometime, Birch Tree, Upper Diagonal etc.) they are not contrived, and will make you feel like superman on crack when you get done. 

If you can climb a 5.10 crack at DL, you can climb a 5.10 crack of similar width just about anywhere.
John Sherman · · Sheboygan, WI · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
Buck Rio wrote: 

Climb all the classic cracks (Brinton, Congratulations, Sometime, Birch Tree, Upper Diagonal etc.) they are not contrived, and will make you feel like superman on crack when you get done. 

If you can climb a 5.10 crack at DL, you can climb a 5.10 crack of similar width just about anywhere.
Thanks for the suggestions.

Tradiban wrote:

Call me from the crag and I will tell you what's on and what's off.
951-527-7959


Not sure if this is serious, or if you're giving me the number to some seedy hotline.   

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,540
John Sherman wrote:

Not sure if this is serious, or if you're giving me the number to some seedy hotline.   

Oh, it's definitely seedy but also legit beta. Text me your questions and I will let you know what's on and what's off.

Mark Wenzel · · Charlotte, NC · Joined May 2015 · Points: 45

Just climb lines that look good, several were mentioned above and typically have pretty good pro but bring brass. Most are obvious as you walk down the cliff. While there are cracks, there are few, if any, actual crack lines.

Ian CB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 5,160

IMO Son of a Great Chimney Direct and Pacific Ocean wall are two of the finest 12a’s in the Park.  It would be tough not to enjoy playing around on those ones.
Flake route and Thouroughfair are excellent 10+\11a’s too.

CRAG-list-KILLA · · Wisconsin · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 205
Ian CB wrote: IMO Son of a Great Chimney Direct and Pacific Ocean wall are two of the finest 12a’s in the Park.  It would be tough not to enjoy playing around on those ones.
Flake route and Thouroughfair are excellent 10+\11a’s too.

From the man himself! +1 on thoroughfare and flake route you know what’s on because that’s all you have lololol

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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