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Outdoor climbing near Marquette, MI?

Original Post
Bryn Sharp · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 14

Hi everyone,

My boyfriend and I will be traveling from Tucson, AZ to the UP next week in search of some outdoor climbing near the Marquette area. I have heard that Suicide Rock and Cliff's Ridge (Marquette Mountain) are two decent spots, but we would appreciate it greatly if anyone can provide any additional information about what types of permanent equipment is at the top of the routes (particularly at Cliff's Ridge) (drop-ins, bolts, etc.), and if it is possible to set up the anchor from the top without being clipped to anything (versus needing to rappel or be anchored to reach down to the anchors).

If you have other places you suggest we climb, please let us know!

Also, if you would be down to join us for a climbing session, let me know! We are always interested in meeting new climbing partners everywhere we travel. We both work at the climbing gym in Tucson, and have both been climbing for a good number of years on a range of styles (trad, sport, bouldering). Safety is very important to us, but we are always down to explore and try new things as well!

Thanks!

Yueyang Meng · · Stevens Point, Wisconsin · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Silver mountain 

chris tregge · · Beersconsin · Joined May 2007 · Points: 9,742

My son ski jumps and we climbed at Suicide after he jumped there last month.  It was a really cool little crag.  Chains at the top, not drop ins, IIRC, and I don't think you'd be able to set up an anchor from the top.  The mini guide says don't park on the road, park on the opposite side of the road under the power lines, there's a little pullout/lot.  Bring DEET.  

Stop by the ski jump just a little further down the road on tuesday or thursday evening and say hi to coach Gary from Chris and Luke.  

Next time we're up there I hope to do the 5.10 at Presque Isle.  We'll see.  Presque Isle is a neat little area.  Jump off the cliff, youtube "black rocks cliff jumping".

https://www.thingstodointheup.com/black-rocks-marquette/

Bryn Sharp · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 14

Thanks, Chris. Is it a sport or trad lead then to set up the routes at Suicide? Do you now what's at the top of the routes at Cliff's Ridge?

jon jugenheimer · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,690

Give downwind sports a call. They have a lot of beta for the area.

I haven’t climbed at Cliffs in years, but all I remember is trees on top for anchors.  
Silver Mtn IMHO is the best climbing in the UP. It is a mix of sport and trad, and the top of most every route has an anchor of some kind. Note, if you want to TR there, you will first have to find the route from the bottom, then hike the stairs to the top, then do a rap or downclimb to an anchor (mostly rap) then pull your rope, then build a TR on the anchor and rap again.  Please be aware of the loss rocks on top while doing this if people are below...or just lead bolt to bolt.  Everything there is safely bolted.   

chris tregge · · Beersconsin · Joined May 2007 · Points: 9,742

All sport at suicide. I have not climbed anywhere else in the UP sadly. Agree with Jon. When you pull into town stop at downwind sports and ask for local beta, buy the trifold mini-guide (supplemented by mountainproject).

B DeMers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

Cliff's Ridge/Marquette mtn is Top rope with Natural Pro at the top (trees or a nut placment where it exists)

Suicide is short, well bolted sport with anchors on every route.

A trad crag near Marquette would be Slugg's bluff if that's more your style.

Down Wind or the Marquette Climbers' Cooperative would be good sources of info once you're in town

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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