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Best moderate hand cracks in the Northeast for small (BD 0.5-1) hands?


M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,034

On the upper edge of what you are looking for, Beanstalk Crack 9+ (NE Crags) and the first pitch of Stewart's Crack 9+ (Main Wall) at Greens have good hand jamming. They both probably get a little wide for your hands at the top, but you can layback there instead. There is also Eco- Challenge 8+ and the 2 pitch First Impressions 9+. If you do the first pitch of Squeeze box 5.8, there are some nice straight up cracks leading  up to the anchor (just don't have an epic getting your rope stuck in them when you pull the rope)

Firebird 5.7 at the Zonkers Wall at Woodchuck has some nice jamming if I remember right.

Ira O · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 97
Andrew Peterson wrote:

Any suggestions for routes with cracks at Wheeler? I climbed there once, but everything I got on was slab and not much crack. 

Yeah there's not much for true crack climbs but certainly some climbs that have a good bit of it ... Get it While you can (.9) Keep on Working .(10a, if your tall),  Randy Get your Guns (.11a) all on the upper wall, all feature cracks. Kingdom Crack .10a  has some jams but it's mostly a face climb with a crack for pro. Eagle Point Crack( .9) , Hot Seat in Hell, (.11d, slab crux) and a few quality  climbs on the Shield, mostly 9s, pretty much round out the cracks. 

Ira O · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 97
Nick Goldsmith wrote: replace the pin on The Great Dihedral of better yet put a bolt there. the  path will not be over grown anymore.....

The path is in great shape to the Great Corner..  it's when you venture further afield thst it gets brushy. Strange, doesn't seem to be much traffic in the mooshead area this year. Typically that area is the most beaten down. 

And that pin will prob be out when the next person falls onto it... looking pretty wiggly. 
Pierre de St Croix · · Southbury, CT · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 0
Suburban Roadside wrote: I've been dragged back in by an old IPad that logged in automatically so I'll just do me, y'all can do You
#251 - where is this place?   ?   > . ?  . ? .  ?  The Raven's Crest at Sugar Hollow, Wooster State Park, Southern Connecticut
#400, ?
258=262 -All In the Shade ! !
RAVEN'S CREST
"Be Careful What You Wish For"
not so small "BCWYF" follows the crack out right thru, 2 tiers, 1 is very  short,
 It forces a crunched stance under the final vertical corner
 it might be harder  if you are tall
*50%VIEW-100% OF THE BUSSINESS , there are harder  ."escapes" .  out left  
All at one corner of a ridge or small 'cirque', 10 minutes from the road.
 20 minutes along the "Ives Trail" Where there is a large dedicated parking lot.(free)
A chalkless crack/face climbing paradise less than a 1-hour drive from NYC, 60 MILES south of the Gunks.

that . . . .


This place!!! Isn't it just off Route 7 South from Danbury???

I'd love to get out there and check this out as I've only hiked by wondering what in the world it was.
Dales DeadBug · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 498

For cracks in CT that *aren’t* traprock, the northwest corner has some excellent ones like this 5.10 in Colebrook 
Chris Blatchley · · Somerville, MA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 6

Maybe check out The Horn in pawtuckaway.

Etha Williams · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 269

11/10 for Bombardment. Perfect hands all the way up. It felt like the crack was made for my hands, I barely used the face, and I couldn’t stop smiling. It was my first “real” 5.8 trad onsight, and I couldn’t have wished for a better climb. I wish I could climb this forever!

Other Cathedral thoughts on some routes listed here:

  • Layton’s: mostly good to somewhat cupped (but still secure) hands, with a short section of bomber fists. Would like to lead soon and could see it being my first 9 trad lead.
  • Chicken Delight: A number of the places I hoped to find good hand jams were too shallow/flared for me to get secure jams in, which made it feel pretty strenuous. Definitely something for me to work on (or just commit to the layback...). Not directly related to hand size, but the reach to the dish after the bolt felt a little tricky at 5’1.5’’ with a -4 ape. 
  • P2 of Funhouse: I got a couple good hand jams and at least one killer forearm jam, but I mostly used face holds.
  • Black Lung: Mostly pulled on face holds, but got nice jams where I needed them, including some interesting deep jams at the crux.
JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 651

Sugarloaf in Zealand Notch.... few nice, moderate cracks there. Sea of Grean comes to mind....

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Toe Crack. @ cathedral.  super easy but nice. 

Etha Williams · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 269

Turns out that Layback at the Quincy Quarries climbs a lot smoother if you just ignore the name:

"Layback"...or not....

...I might actually be willing to lead it now that smearing up polished, spray-painted rock is no longer an issue.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,149

Etha Williams wrote: Turns out that Layback at the Quincy Quarries climbs a lot smoother if you just ignore the name:

"Layback"...or not....

...I might actually be willing to lead it now that smearing up polished, spray-painted rock is no longer an issue.

I don't `gnow? to each, their own (~)}which would you rather?

A one-of-a-kind open space, Dn'bury area. [X]The lean is out & toward the camera !
@¥@ how 'easy' do you want to climb ?
**@#$ There is some short fun stuff around here
Short 'n Sweet
189

Well? It is a bit of a drive, less than 1 hour south of New Paltz, under 3 from Boston, depending? 

make a plan - get together with 3-4 other climbers, more if anyone else wants to climb, set a date?<:=)

Rob Rogowicz · · Danville, NH · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 60

Just did a super thin hand crack at pway. Upper cliff "The start" first 15/20' is .5/.75. I think your hand jams might be bomber on this one.

Etha Williams · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 269
Rob Rogowicz wrote: Just did a super thin hand crack at pway. Upper cliff "The start" first 15/20' is .5/.75. I think your hand jams might be bomber on this one.

Went to P-way today and was hoping to get on this climb for exactly this reason! Alas, it was somewhat seepy from yesterday’s rain, and I decided that might not be ideal conditions for a first 5.9 lead, even if my tiny hands do make it more like 5.8 :P The couple jams I tested out from the ground felt pretty nice, though. Hoping to go back sometime drier for an onsight attempt.

I did learn (on TR) that the first bit of the The Horn is a great climb for someone my size to work on ring locks! I think I still have yet to experience a truly bomber ring lock,  but they’re beginning to feel a little more secure... Some good slightly thin but still secure hands in the top half.
Tom Sherman · · Bristol, RI · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 417

Just in terms of keeping the stoke... Got on Pine Tree & Toe Crack this weekend   

Lovena Harwood · · MA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 450
Etha Williams wrote: Turns out that Layback at the Quincy Quarries climbs a lot smoother if you just ignore the name:

"Layback"...or not....

...I might actually be willing to lead it now that smearing up polished, spray-painted rock is no longer an issue.

Oh I need to try this one Etha! #1 or #2 size? 


Jackie Sweet we need to try this!

Etha Williams · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 269
Rob Rogowicz wrote: Just did a super thin hand crack at pway. Upper cliff "The start" first 15/20' is .5/.75. I think your hand jams might be bomber on this one.

Got the onsight on this one today! It was my first 5.9 trad lead (also my first time attempting a 5.9 lead on gear), and while having small hands definitely helped, it still felt non-trivial and I was pretty stoked to get the onsight. When I made the last moves out of the crack, I could hardly believe it and almost wanted to cry a little.

Great jams, great gear, would highly recommend to anyone looking for cracks in this size. Just wish it were longer, but I guess so it is with so many cracks out here.

Thanks again for all the great suggestions!
Etha Williams · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 269
Lovena Harwood wrote:

Oh I need to try this one Etha! #1 or #2 size? 

Pretty sure #1 and even some .75, though I don't remember for certain.

Tom Sherman · · Bristol, RI · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 417

Yes love The Start!!! Now see if you get it next time too because that thing still tests me now and again. Definitely a struggle until it opens up to hands and then still feels unrelenting a bit longer.

I want Reppy’s next!

Etha Williams · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 269
Tom Sherman wrote: Yes love The Start!!! Now see if you get it next time too because that thing still tests me now and again. Definitely a struggle until it opens up to hands and then still feels unrelenting a bit longer.

I want Reppy’s next!

Haha, the part when it "opens up to hands" was probably the crux for me (also for my partner, whose hands are maybe half a BD size bigger than mine) :P

I'm a little intimidated by Reppy's since #3 tends to be a pretty desperate size for me...but excited to get on it, too...tbd!
june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 42

Reppys  is so low angled that it is easy .great but painful foot jams

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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