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How much toe bend and toe knuckle positioning for agressive shoes?

Original Post
El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

I'm looking to buy a pair of Solutions as my first agressive shoe and am trying to find the best fit between three sizes.  The only problem I've noticed with the best fitting (tight but not an excruciating ordeal to put on) ones is that the toe bump of the shoe is a good centimeter or two in front of where my toe knuckles actually stick up.  Is this normal, or does it imply they not fit correctly ?

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,070

It sounds like poor fit. Solutions are pretty tight and difficult to put on, but once on, they should feel like they have room in all the right places, while being tight. 

Alex Styp · · Golden, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 75

It's all about how the last (shape of foot the model of shoe is built around) interacts with your foot. Go to a retailer that stocks a large amount of shoes. Try on a bunch, in a lot of sizes. I climbed in solutions and TC pros for 8 years or so before figuring out there were shoes out there that were way more comfortable le and offered just as much performance. But that's just me... Try the SCARPA Instinct family, for example. Laspo uses 3 or 5 (I forget...) different lasts for all their shoes. SCARPA has 17?  different lasts in production worldwide. Interesting sidenote, they were mostly all (Laspo and SCARPA) created by one badass dude, Heinz M. Of these maybe 1/3 are "high performance" and will have dramatically different toe boxes, ratio of forefoot to heel width, heel pocket construction,  different randing/support styles (some of which will interface with your feet better). Somewhere in some size one shoe model will just fit Right, and you'll know...its a PITA to find that fit and learn what performance comfort is and its nigh impossible for a person to tell you whether a fit is good in person, much less an internet opinion on sizing discrepancy. Source: I sell climbing shoes and live with a climbing shoe cobbler. I've owned 30some different models over the years looking for that perfect fit...

TLDR you won't know wont know the solution is right much less the size choice without a crap ton of reference points. 

El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70
Alex Styp wrote: Go to a retailer that stocks a large amount of shoes. Try on a bunch, in a lot of sizes.

Wish I could, the nearest retailer is about 2.5 hours drive and only has about 5 models.  I like the Instincts, and they probably fit my foot better except for the fact that they lack any toe bump at all and the rubber on the top of the shoe makes it difficult for the shoe to conform to my curled toes...

Joe Lane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
El Duderino wrote:

Wish I could, the nearest retailer is about 2.5 hours drive and only has about 5 models.  I like the Instincts, and they probably fit my foot better except for the fact that they lack any toe bump at all and the rubber on the top of the shoe makes it difficult for the shoe to conform to my curled toes...

Don't lose hope on that. I know you have no way of knowing this as it's your first pair of shoes like this, but the Instinct in particular (i own it) will get MUCH softer after you break them in. I promise you that stiff nonconforming feeling on your knuckles will soften and conform.


Edit: Removed ambiguous sentence.
Bill B · · WNC · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
El Duderino wrote:

Wish I could, the nearest retailer is about 2.5 hours drive and only has about 5 models.  I like the Instincts, and they probably fit my foot better except for the fact that they lack any toe bump at all and the rubber on the top of the shoe makes it difficult for the shoe to conform to my curled toes...

There are certain websites (the list is constantly changing) that offer free outgoing and return shipping on climbing shoes. I think Zappos still does it. I would find a “likely suspect” and then order 3-5 sizes of that shoe and either keep one pair if you like them or return them all for free. PITA? Yes, but less so than driving 5 hours round trip IMO

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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