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Slash grades are stupid, prove me wrong...

Original Post
Neil Bodner · · Columbus, Ohio · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 151

I don’t understand how a climb could possibly retain a slash grade. How can a route a be so particular that it is not one of two grades? Do you think that if we continue to use slash grades we should consider adding three more letter grades to the YDS? How far should we go? Can you imagine hearing someone saying “ Dude that 12i/j was sick!”.

Cron · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 55

11d if you’re tall / 12a if you’re < 5’ 6”

I’m not sure I follow what you’re ranting on exactly.

Dan Cooksey · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

I’m not sure how anyone who rock climbs lives in Ohio. Yet here we are.....

Micah Wolf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Tall people should have their own rating system, 12c? You stepped 10 feet off the ground with one push off those stilts you call legs.

Eric G · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Variations. If you take the easier one you take the lower grade. 

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

I use a slash grade when I am not shure what to grade it?   the a/b  stands for I don't really know what to call this... 

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,545
Neil Bodner wrote: I don’t understand how a climb could possibly retain a slash grade. How can a route a be so particular that it is not one of two grades? Do you think that if we continue to use slash grades we should consider adding three more letter grades to the YDS? How far should we go? Can you imagine hearing someone saying “ Dude that 12i/j was sick!”.

You know what drives me nuts? Hyphenated last names. Like, how the fuck is that going to work out in the future? Their kids are going to be "Bob Smith-Jones-Jackson-Flores?! 

Like hyphenated last names, slash grades show a lack of decisive decision making, and I find that repugnant.
Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,231
Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,754
Micah Wolf wrote: Tall people should have their own rating system, 12c? You stepped 10 feet off the ground with one push off those stilts you call legs.

We should also have our own grading system for compressed particular beta that is a simple step up for short people and a crimp/mantle high step for us.  Works both ways.  My legs do look like stilts though.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 18,392

Re' hyphenated last names: In Germany the government simply passed a law that one hyphen was the limit; so no "Bob Smith-Jones-Jackson-Flores "

As for slash grades, when I see one I simply say "Hey, these climbers are actually honest; they admit they aren't sure exactly what the grade is."  Ain't nothing wrong with that.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

The lower grade is what the route actually is. The higher grade is what you brag about sending. 

Jennie Matkov · · West Chester, PA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 40
Colonel Mustard wrote:


Why yes, yes he does :)
Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

is this Jens trolling MP?

Neil Bodner · · Columbus, Ohio · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 151
Dan Cooksey wrote: I’m not sure how anyone who rock climbs lives in Ohio. Yet here we are.....

The mad river gorge in Ohio is world class limestone, occasionally the day trip to the red/new to climb those Choss piles is exciting 

D-Storm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 300
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: The lower grade is what the route actually is. The higher grade is what you brag about sending. 

This is why slash grades are the gateway to grade inflation: 12d/13a today = 13a/b tomorrow... 

And no one says anything, because the person who bursts the wishful bubble of the ignorant masses would be branded as a dick, and that is how grade inflation largely continues unchecked.

Last year, one of my good friends, who is a very good climber, told me that he was so pissed at me when he thought I'd sandbagged him on a route recommendation. I eventually had the opportunity to demonstrate the beta; he tried it and quickly agreed that I'd been correct about the grade all along. 

Besides, proper sandbags are so rare anymore compared to fluffy grades, it's good to keep a few around, waiting to check the egos that are more focused on the grade instead of the route in front of their eyes.

Evan Jeffrey · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 75
Neil Bodner wrote:Can you imagine hearing someone saying “ Dude that 12i/j was sick!”.

I've seen grade scales that include a '5.14e' so we might be headed that way

Billy Simek · · Boston, MA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 1,476

Dogleg (5.12a/13c)

TBlom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 360
curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 74
Robert Hall wrote: 

As for slash grades, when I see one I simply say "Hey, these climbers are actually honest; they admit they aren't sure exactly what the grade is."  Ain't nothing wrong with that.

isnt that why we have 10-, 10 and 10+?

TBlom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 360
curt86iroc wrote:

isnt that why we have 10-, 10 and 10+?

yeah, but everyone knows that 10+ is actually 11 a/b...

Tavish Hansen · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 180
Neil Bodner wrote:

The mad river gorge in Ohio is world class limestone,

Mmmm.  Checked out the MP page, and looked like there were about three whole fourish star routes. Sounds pretty world class.

occasionally the day trip to the red/new to climb those Choss piles is exciting
Totally dude.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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