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Grand Teton Conditions

Original Post
Kalil Oldham · · Ardmore, PA · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55

Anyone have any recent beta on the snow conditions on the approach to Exum Ridge? We're looking at climbing Exum Ridge in a couple of weeks and wondering whether we'll need crampons and axes.

Thanks!

 - K

Tom Chingas · · North Conway, NH · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

We climbed the full exum ridge 7/6. The ridge it self was pretty much snow free.

There were a few gullies we crossed from the lower saddle to the base of the Exum Ridge that were frozen snow and made having crampons very nice.

Also a big snowfield which needed negotiating to gain the lower saddle, there will be a boot ladder there and it's not too steep.

I assume you will descend the OS route. That was covered in snow still, although the snow was soft, having crampons and an axe was nice because of the exposure in some places.

I wore LaSportiva T3s with strap crampons, light mtn boots would've been better though.

I would recommend light crampons and a light aluminum axe.

Edit: Wanted to add that you'll be up there about a month after I was but based on how much snow was on the OS still. I would still expect the OS to be holding a fair amount of snow.

Here's a pic from the upper exum, middle Teton in the background

Nick B · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 81

Tom nailed conditions.  Lots of snow on OS still.

Kalil Oldham · · Ardmore, PA · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55

Awesome. Thanks for the info!

 - K

ryan012 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 225

Still plenty of snow here. Keep an eye on the Jenny Lake Ranger blog for updates: tetonclimbingroutes.blogspot.com/?m=1

Teton Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1

A couple weeks? Might get smoky. Won't be snowy unless some big nasty cold system rolls in with new snow—has happened.  It's unlikely that crampons and an ice axe will be needed when you arrive. Few are using them now, and certainly not on the UXM.

The OS has some patches of snow, icy snow, & ice that are easily managed or avoided. The OS is not in the best condition but it's OK. Some wet rock, too, with all the melting (icy if temps drop). It is not  the time to do an FKT on the Grand Teton.

The UXM has been cooked and it's ready to climb.

https://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/ had updated info on conditions. Been pretty warm - Lower Saddle Weather Station.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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