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Best Face-Trad areas


Original Post
Bailey K · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 10

After a trip to the New, I'm stoked on face-trad, as in, sporty climbs that are gear protected. Splitter cracks have gotten a bit old at this point.

Where's the best face-trad area you've been to or know of?

I'll start it off:

NRG, Gunks, NC areas...???

Ben VanderStouw · · Rochester, NY · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 85

Following. +1 for the Gunks. 

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

Seneca rocks, if you're in the area. Take care to test the rock quality of your holds and placements. Excessive rain and erosion have caused some rockfalls lately.
+1 NRG

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 255

Eldo.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 451

Just echoing Gunks and NRG.  Even the cracks here are basically face climbs!

seamus mcshane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 195

T-Wall
City of Rocks
Red Rock

Will Maness · · Jackson, WY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 35

Moore’s Wall, NC!

David K · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 145

Really I think the Gunks are just the best for this. At T-wall, NRG, or Red Rocks (the other mentioned placed I've been), the face trad is a side dish, but at the Gunks it's the main course.

Troy . · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0
B K wrote: After a trip to the New, I'm stoked on face-trad, as in, sporty climbs that are gear protected. Splitter cracks have gotten a bit old at this point.

Where's the best face-trad area you've been to or know of?

I'll start it off:

NRG, Gunks, NC areas...???

Out of curiosity, what face trad climbs did you get on at the New?

Bailey K · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 10

Troy, we got on Steve Martin's Face at Beauty. A mixed climb, but It was perty excellent

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

Weeping Wall and Sunshine Face at Suicide Rock.  All bolt protected but believe me it’s trad. 

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Eldorado Canyon in Boulder, CO

The Needles in Custer State Park, SD

Many of the routes in Red Rocks, NV

Bailey K · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 10

Hmm I always figured the Needles were cracky. I'll have to check it out!

Cron · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 55

Whitehorse Ledge, NH

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95

Pembroke.

(And much other U.K. trad)

And while we’re looking international, Arapiles.

nbrown · · WNC/Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 6,901

The whole state of NC is pretty much traditional face climbing. Much of it has bolts (specifically on the WNC granite domes) but the place is as trad as it gets. I live very near Eldo nowadays but I'd take NC rock over it any day.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
B K wrote: Hmm I always figured the Needles were cracky. I'll have to check it out!

Like all rock, there are cracks as well.  But might you be thinking of the Needles in  California?

Emil Briggs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 105
nbrown wrote: The whole state of NC is pretty much traditional face climbing. Much of it has bolts (specifically on the WNC granite domes) but the place is as trad as it gets. I live very near Eldo nowadays but I'd take NC rock over it any day.

But not NC weather Nathan!

mnjsan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 624

One of my favorite 10s at the Gunks and totally underrated.  Many people don’t even realize there is a climb there.  Great face climbing and a little spicy.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106738801/still-crazy-after-all-these-years

Bailey K · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 10
nbrown wrote: The whole state of NC is pretty much traditional face climbing. Much of it has bolts (specifically on the WNC granite domes) but the place is as trad as it gets. I live very near Eldo nowadays but I'd take NC rock over it any day.

Shhhh Nathan, gotta keep it low key!

Bailey K · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 10
rgold wrote:

Like all rock, there are cracks as well.  But might you be thinking of the Needles in  California?

Nah i was thinking it was just all Joshua Tree-esque friction slab, but I had never really looked into it given its distance from everything else. Living in Laramie now, its not too far away. I'll have to go check it out

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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