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TRAD harness recommendation

Original Post
Rock Monkey · · Bonita · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 15


My Petzl Coral kind of sucks when fully loaded with my rack. I'd like some recommendations on a better TRAD harness.
My criteria...

  • 5 equipment loops
  • thick padding for comfort
  • something that I can really cinch down on my hips that will stay there when weighted with the rack.
  • preferably hot pink as a color option... *kidding*
I've sort of browsed at some of the Big Wall harness options. I'm leaning that direction as I'm now delving into multi-hour multi-pitch climbs with the intent to get on big walls soon. So many dang options and opinions out there in the forums and reviews but hey, I'd like to hear from you....
brian burke · · santa monica, ca · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 140

really happy with the bd solution guide

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Have you heard of the Misty Mountain Cadillac?

David Ebel · · Guelph, ON · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

+1 for MM caddy.  I opted for the additional rear gear loop on mine and it's great for whatever your not using mid pitch. The stacked side gear loops take some getting used to,  but I really like them.  It's super comfy on hanging belays and carries weight really well on your hips. 

Jack Pain · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10

How do you get the option for extra gear loop? Was just checking them out on moosejaw. May have to put in an order.

Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55

Is this the week of all MMC all the time?


PatMas · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Instead of a 5th gear loop, put some of your alpines over your shoulder. It will work wonders!

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

I wouldn't bother.

all harnesses suck if you have a full trad rack on them. I just put some pieces or the draws on a gear sling. Spreads the weight. That way I don't have a sagging, mega loaded harness. And I tend no to put everything on the sling if it's a big rack. Otherwise it's hard to select gear from the middle of the pack.

the tradeoff of a big waist belt or big wall harness is less mobility. 

Z Winters · · Mazama, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 230

Arc'teryx FL-365 is the most comfortable harness with huge gear oops I've found. Love it.

Wade Bieber · · Sacramento, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Again for the Misty Mountain Cadillac. I got a custom one last year with double back buckles and a second belay loop. Buckles never creep, and I love all the gear loops. Fantastic harness. Comfy too.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,265

Another vote for MM Cadillac. They have a harness builder on their website but if you call them, they’ll do pretty much anything you ask. I’ve had gear loops in different places, custom colours, all kinds of stuff over the years.

Edited to add:
As others have mentioned, there are other ways to lighten the load on your harness. I’m skinny so I hate a fully loaded harness, it just sags.

- 3-4 single slings with biners over your shoulder eliminates the need for so many draws.  
- use a prussic cord to secure your chalk bag... one less thing on your harness
- ultralight running hydration bladder and/or an 8-10l pack is great to avoid water bottles and/or shoes being clipped to your harness.
- don’t carry crap you don’t need (ascender, pulley, etc)

Rock Monkey · · Bonita · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 15

Got a new Caddy for $65 on Ebay. woot woot.

Nick Haha · · Baltimore, md · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 160

Misty mountain Cadillac all the way

Mike Palasek · · Columbus, OH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Had MM Cadillac. Did not like the size or configuration of the gear loops. Gave it away. The Singing Rock Dome is perfect for me. Comfy. Huge gear loops (right on the side of the harness). $60! Has held up great. Saw a crew member for Jimmy Chin wearing one while filming Free Solo.

Matt Castelli · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 245

Dmm renegade. 7 loops, feels like a normal harness, not a big waller 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

If you are going to be carrying gear only on your harness I really like the BD Big Gun.   The waist belts don’t seem to deform or sag when loaded down like other do.  It’s far from a perfect harness but when I need to carry a lot of crap it’s the one I always go back to.   

MATTHEW THAXTON · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

2nd on the dmm renegade 2 harness. Best harness I've ever had. 7 gear loops, super comfy. I usually carry doubles from .3 to 3 and there is plenty of room. The pad on the waist loops also slides so you can always have the harness centered. 

KG · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 606

The Petzl Adjama is super rad for trad. It’s comfy but not too bulky and the 5th gear loop on the back is super nice to have. 

Jack Pain · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10

Just ordered a singing rock dome. Looks sweet! 

beta · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

I’m very happy with my Yates Shield harness.

Rock Monkey · · Bonita · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 15

Ok, so I got the Cadillac. It was on my doorstep last night upon returning from beautiful/lovely Tahquitz. The first thing I noticed was the padding. There's really not much difference between the padding on that and my Petzl Corax. The padding feels stiff and is nowhere near as thick as I was imagining for harness that I want to wear for extended hours.

My question would be, first, for those who have experience with the Cadillac and who have responded with alternatives. Among the Renegade, Big Gun, Shield, FL-365 and Dome - which has the padding?

I tried the Caddy on last night. It felt comfortable enough but that was not racked. The padding feels stiff. I want something soft and cushy.

Thanks for the assists peeps. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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