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TRing at Texas Canyon

Original Post
Matthew Campbell · · Redondo Beach, CA · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Looking at heading to Texas Canyon for the first time this weekend, and I'm trying to make a plan for where we can set up TR. Are any of the routes/anchors accessible from the top, either by hiking around or climbing something easy and topping out? Or will we need to sport lead every route (or one immediately adjacent) that we want to top rope on?

Also interested in some recreational rappelling (hike to the top, rappel down), but if there aren't any hike-up areas then I won't bother bringing the static rope.

Mark Fletcher · · Clovis, CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 11

Almost all climbs will require someone to lead a route to set up top ropes.  The only exceptions that I am aware of are the two "kiddie climbs" on Trenchtown Slabs, which are about 5.0, but you can walk to the top.  If you can lead 5.2, you will be able to top rope several climbs in the Second Corridor immediately across from the two previously mentioned climbs.  Not a place for recreational rappelling (not trolling you, but I never understood rappelling only for rappelling).

Cole D · · Sydney, NSW, AU · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 15

Texas Canyon is a pretty bad spot for setting up TR's without leading.

Pretty sure there is nothing there that fits your criteria.

I would recommend Corpse Wall.  

Steven Lee · · Boston · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 265

Agreed with the others' comments. Texas canyon will not be a good choice as you need to lead. Corpse wall would be good as the top is easily accessible for both TR and rappel. The hike is nice too.

Matthew Campbell · · Redondo Beach, CA · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks for the quick replies. To clarify, I'm fine with only TRing what someone in my group can lead, I just wanted to know what to expect. I'll definitely leave the static behind, though.

Thanks for the Corpse Wall recommendation, too.

...I never understood rappelling only for rappelling).
I see that on here a lot. I enjoy rappelling on its own, but the bigger reason I asked is I like to shoot photos while I'm up on the cliffs. Sometimes it is easier to go down from the top with my bigger camera than to climb from the bottom up with a pack. I also have a buddy who I can't convince to climb with me, but he wants to learn how to rappel. I'm trying to scout out some cliffs in the area to teach him.
Mark Fletcher · · Clovis, CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 11

Thanks for the clarifications.  If you have someone in your group who can lead to set up a top rope, then top roping will be very viable at Texas Canyon.  Thus, with your new clarification, this may be a good location for you and your group if someone will lead.  Also, your clarification regarding rappelling to take pictures really helps.  I would think TC would be a great place to take pictures on rappel of climbers adjacent to you.  

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

105F at Texas Cyn forget it. Go to the gym with AC/Option Horse Flats Top rope wall(granite). Planet Of the Apes wall early Am or the sandy crumbling Corps wall thing.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 311

You might wish to visit Stoney Point.
Lots of TR and nobody will care if you rap all day. 

Matthew Campbell · · Redondo Beach, CA · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0
Jeffrey Constine wrote: 105F at Texas Cyn forget it. Go to the gym with AC/Option Horse Flats Top rope wall(granite). Planet Of the Apes wall early Am or the sandy crumbling Corps wall thing.

Forecast is saying 80s for this weekend, and if I'm reading the route locations right you can move around to minimize your sun exposure. Are you saying the rock gets scorched in the afternoon?

Cole D · · Sydney, NSW, AU · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 15

In all seriousness, for what you are looking for;

1. Stoney
2. Corpse
3. TC or Malibu Canyon or Horse Flats

If your sport leader climbing buddy is more stoked on TC then that is the way to go, but otherwise hit Stoney or Corpse for sure

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674
Point Magu Boulder is good in the AM as well. this photo is from the 80's Peter Hayes R.I.P in tennis shoes no rope.
2017 this one. Tailgate belay. Yusuke Komie Ropeless.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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