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Opinions on ropes


Original Post
Fab Ridarrer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 10

Time for a new rope. Sportclimbing exclusively, good amounts of whipping/projecting.
I really like skinny ropes, so around 9.2mm.
I‘m thinking 80m to be able to chop it a few times. Dry treated.

Candidates are:
Mammut Revelation protect
Edelrid Topaz
Tendon Master pro
Petzl Volta
Beal Joker

Anyone owned one of these? Experiences? Handling, wear etc.
I typically get about 150-200 Climbing days (about two years) out of a rope (chopping included), more would be nice but not for the price of a fatter rope.

Fab Ridarrer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 10

Just to be a little bit more precise ...
I‘ve used a variety of ropes so far, all in the 9-10mm range, some dry treated, some not.
The use on these has been pretty much the same, the handling and wear however quite different. Some wore super quick (Petzl Contact...). Also, I just handled a new Mammut rope (pretty fat, 10mm?) and they seem not to be as nice as they were before (felt soft, significant wear after a few sessions). 

Matt Castelli · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 240

I love my Beal joker w Unicore, but it’s admittedly for trad/alpine stuff and unicore is less key for sport climbing.  That said, I’ve never been disappointed w Beal (on my 5th rope w them). Anything but black diamond...

Dylan Pike · · Sandy, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 65

I wouldn't recommend the Joker for projecting. In my experience, the sheath is not particularly durable. As an alpine or multi pitch trad rope, it rocks.

Bill B · · WNC · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Matt Castelli wrote: I love my Beal joker w Unicore, but it’s admittedly for trad/alpine stuff and unicore is less key for sport climbing.  That said, I’ve never been disappointed w Beal (on my 5th rope w them). Anything but black diamond...

Love beal ropes, everything else seems hit or miss.

Chris Blatchley · · Somerville, MA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 7

I've had success with edelrid for a workhorse. mammut has great feel, but only used the serenity as a gym rope. +1 though for beal. i only buy beal ropes now. the AAC discounts help a lot with that though...

Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Out of all those i would get the topaz

John Sims · · Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 5

If I was you, I would avoid Petzl ropes, I have owned two and both sheaths wore out very quickly. I have used the Tendon Master 7.0 twins a fair amount and really like them, but I don't know how that translates to the 9.2 size. 

Matt N · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 354

FYI Tendon and Beal are usually cheapest at Epic TV, if price factors into your choice.
e.g. https://shop.epictv.com/en/ropes/tendon/master-91-2015?sku=TEN15_ROPM91_RED80
https://shop.epictv.com/en/single-ropes/tendon/master-pro-92?sku=TENS17_ROPM9.2_RED80 

edit, even cheaper: https://www.campsaver.com/tendon-master-pro-9-2-mm-rope.html (10% coupon when you sign up for their emails, usually applies to all items)

Fab Ridarrer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 10
Matt N wrote: FYI Tendon and Beal are usually cheapest at Epic TV, if price factors into your choice.
e.g. https://shop.epictv.com/en/ropes/tendon/master-91-2015?sku=TEN15_ROPM91_RED80
https://shop.epictv.com/en/single-ropes/tendon/master-pro-92?sku=TENS17_ROPM9.2_RED80 

edit, even cheaper: https://www.campsaver.com/tendon-master-pro-9-2-mm-rope.html (10% coupon when you sign up for their emails, usually applies to all items)

Nice, thank you!

Campsaver is really cheap! I‘m in europe though... 
coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

Topaz super nice....they're coming out with another 9.2 next year, just saw it at OR....bit more supple....but I have the Topaz in a 60 and 70...durable, liked it, tad stiffer than some.....but great rope if you're going to whip repeatedly on a slightly skinnier model than some....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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