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Frenchman coulee beta please!!


Original Post
MattPin · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

I know this site has a lot of beta but If anyone has any personal recommendations for some great climbing sport or trad 5.11 < and how to avoid the summer heat it would be greatly appreciated! Will be there for the next 3 days or so!

Conor Jonson · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 156

Climb before 9 and after 4!

F loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 406

It's only going to be a low humidity 90 degrees and windy those days so you'll be fine as long as you put ice around your beer. Plenty of routes and walls hide from the sun pretty well too. If you have three days you can hit many of the 3-4 star routes from columns to fractured/frangible faces.
Edit: Oh and routes. Air Guitar is popular, its debatable whether it's worth it. Red M&Ms is a great TR or ballsy lead as well as a few more in the Sunshine area. You can skip the Feathers (only one or two routes worth using limited time on) and Zig Zag wall, as well as Rock Island,  Gallery, Green Wall, and many others. But it all depends on what you prefer.

MattPin · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks yo!

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45

I think Middle East Wall stays in the shade for quite a while

Alexa Gutenberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined 5 days ago · Points: 0

Take the strongest bug repellent you can find; the mosquitoes there are HORRID.

If you head over to the green wall there’s some shade, and there’s a barn owl nesting in the spy  route that’s pretty neat 

Conor Jonson · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 156

Not sure I agree, never encountered bugs at Vantage

Kevin Schaffer · · Corvallis, Or · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 30

Like Khoi said, Middle East Wall. It's in the shade most of the day and has a lot of good stuff in that grade range.  Human Sacrifice is one of my favorite routes at Vantage.

F loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 406
Conor Jonson wrote: Not sure I agree, never encountered bugs at Vantage

The closer you get to the entrance the worse they are. Jungle bad down there.  

E MuuD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 20

Zig Zag wall and the green wall are in the shade pretty much the entire day.  Routes are mostly around 5.9 with a few 10a and a 10b

Mack Johnson · · Silverdale, WA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 130

The Balls Wall is shady and directly below the parking lot, about a 2-minute walk.
There are several new cliffs below the Middle East Wall, as well as The Dungeon and Sanctuary, that stay shady most of the day.  Usually empty.

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

May be a stupid request but does anyone mind posting a satellite photo of the area with the wall names labeled? Particularly any of these new walls that are not in the new guidebook. If they all can be found in the guidebook ignore my request and I'll check the book when I get home.

Conor Jonson · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 156

Yup, they are all in the guide.

Josh Glantz · · Seattle · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

ride em cowboy is sure to be too hot to touch. it was a few weeks ago, I had to rest in the shady side of the wall between moves. Pretty much felt like jugging off of a hot frying pan. I was too stubborn to bail.

Michael Roitman · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

I took the chance to push my grade by projecting Peeing With a Boner (5.12b sport, Middle East wall). Do it. Amazing climb. I can give you the beta for the intro boulder problem. I'm not a 5.12 climber but this was such a fun project. Easily the best route at Middle East.

But otherwise do the three 5.11 bolt lines at that wall that are grouped together on the left. Butcher of Bagdad Is the right-most of the three. 

mancub · · Seattle, WA > Wanaka, NZ · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 20
Josh Glantz wrote:Pretty much felt like jugging off of a hot frying pan. I was too stubborn to bail.

Saddlin' up in shorts I hope, not. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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