LCC route developing/cleaning ethics
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Occasionally throughout my time in Little Cottonwood, I have spied the odd crack that has the makings for a decent pitch of climbing, yet hasn't been established (seemingly) because there is vegetation in the crack. Are we avoiding these cracks because to clean them would be a pain, or is it contrary to the ethics of the area to clean them out? I'm not really talking about full blown trees like in Bushwack, but dirt, grass, and small-medium shrubs. I'd love to hear from others who have developed in the area. Personally, I would have no qualms with raking junk out of a crack to establish a new climb, but I obviously wouldn't want to do this if the local ethics have historically tried to avoid it. |
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Mostly we are lazy bunch and prefer to garden elsewhere. That said I and others have done a fair amount of cleaning of cracks. Where it gets questionable is the wholesale removal of vegetables from a wall. Salt Lake Slips is an example. That said small - medium shrubs may be the issue as to why they have been left alone. How small is small and how medium is medium? |
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One issue is that if it doesn't become a routinely done route, and, the crack is prone to re-fill with dirt/foliage, then its all for naught. |
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I would venture a guess that if it is worth doing, it may have already been done. Depending on how far the walk is. Only way to find out is to post pictures up here and then we can see how terrifically no-star it may be. |
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"...then we can see how terrifically no-star it may be." |
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One of the cracks I'm thinking of splits the south face of the crescent crack buttress. West of the first pitch of crescent crack, and east of that flared 5.7 variation to P1 on the west side of the rock (not sure what this is called). The crack faces directly south and would land you on the same ledge that the 5.7 variation to crescent crack p1 takes you to, at the base of that fun little finger crack before the belay. Hopefully this description makes sense. It looks like it would start with some overhanging offwidth stuff by a tree at the base, and eventually turns into what looks like a decent crack that would take pro/jams. Seems like a very obvious line, and has possibly seen some ascents, but definitely has plenty of veg/dirt. Maybe a bit presumptuous to assume such an obvious line in a classic area hasn't been climbed or isn't already established. Anyone know anything about this line? |
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Devin Rogers wrote: One of the cracks I'm thinking of splits the south face of the crescent crack buttress. West of the first pitch of crescent crack, and east of that flared 5.7 variation to P1 on the west side of the rock (not sure what this is called). The crack faces directly south and would land you on the same ledge that the 5.7 variation to crescent crack p1 takes you to, at the base of that fun little finger crack before the belay. Hopefully this description makes sense. It looks like it would start with some overhanging offwidth stuff by a tree at the base, and eventually turns into what looks like a decent crack that would take pro/jams. Seems like a very obvious line, and has possibly seen some ascents, but definitely has plenty of veg/dirt. Maybe a bit presumptuous to assume such an obvious line in a classic area hasn't been climbed or isn't already established. Anyone know anything about this line? |
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Boissal . wrote: I should've known I'd end up feeling dumb haha. Apparently my MP sleuthing skills have failed me. I missed that one when I was looking for it. Anyways I guess it either was never cleaned or doesn't see enough ascents to stay clean. Seems like a perfect handcrack in LCC could have more stars if it were cleaned up a bit |
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Devin Rogers wrote: I had no idea it had been posted but figured it would have been climbed... I doubt anyone would be mad at you if you cleaned it (and others), more routes is always a good thing... Once in a while a true gem is hiding under a thick blanket of dirt/moss/unspecified shit and tons of work will reveal it. Re: vegetation, my personal take would be to go after obtrusive scrub oak with extreme prejudice knowing that it will grow back unabated within a couple seasons at best (meaning maintenance will be required to avoid a return to the natural state of things). Removing the stumps from the crack is usually impossible, fortunately they make great footholds and provide opportunity for pro.I'm a lot more sympathetic to other vegetation and would never trim (let alone remove) a mahogany or a pine. |
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Ha no shock to see Madison's name there. I know he's gone out and climbed a boatload of dirty garbage cracks in the last couple years. You can always swing by the Gear Room in Cottonwood Heights and ask him. You'd be surprised there are classic cracks around the country which have only been cleaned out in the past 10 years and now see regular traffic. I'd second Boissal's take. If you can clean it with a nut tool that's just climbing. Beyond that I wouldn't use more then a small single hand clipper on smaller shrubs or branches. Often if you just clear a bit of one side it is enough to get around. |
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If it can be cleaned with a nut tool, it's almost always ok. Some cracks have dirt that keeps filtering back down and if you really want it cleaned, you'll be there a while. The photo of that crack on Back to My Roots makes it look like that took a ton of cleaning. You can only do so much gardening the first session. Once the rain and winter conditions have a chance to flush things, it's often far easier to revisit cleaning. I'm guessing your impression is spot on and that another go-around would make it even better. Sometimes, a leaf blower with a narrowed nozzle makes all the difference. Don't forget to wear eye protection. |
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Bwhahaha. Yeah.... |
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Tyler Phillips wrote: Bwhahaha. Yeah.... ?? |
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Haha. I saw that crack that the OP was asking about too. IMHO it would get enough traffic to stay clean if you didn’t have to “stem the tree” and there were a bolt or two through the sporty section coming in from climbers right down low to get to the nice hand crack and an anchor at the top of the sweet hand jams so it didn’t cross other routes up high. |
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Devin Rogers wrote: I was typing my thoughts out, and it wasn't directed at anyone. Climb on duder |
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bus driver wrote: Seems like 3 Amigos was a jungle before it got dug out and became a regularly climbed part of the area circuit. And it should be regularly climbed as part of the area circuit. |
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tenesmus wrote: Hard to believe it used to be a jungle, it's cleaner than Mexican Crack and only 2% as greasy... Hellgate has the raddest vegetation problem: microscopic pines growing out of every good pocket. Guess the sandy stuff that accumulates in there is good enough to support growth. Climbing around these things without disturbing them usually bumps the grade up by a couple of letters but is very rewarding. |
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A Cloud in the Sky IS THE WORST ROUTE EVAR!!! |
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zoso wrote: A Cloud in the Sky IS THE WORST ROUTE EVAR!!! Maybe if you weighed 145lbs you wouldn't be so scared. I do like routes with disappearing holds though. |
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Tyler, here's the reference you're missing. See comments. |
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zoso wrote: Tyler, here's the reference you're missing. See comments. Bruhhh, me and you haven't exchanged banter for awhile. I'm busting your nuggets dood. And I got your reference.I laughed! Don't worry, Im well over 145 myself :) Happy Pie and Beer Day. |