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More Tensleep Drama


J T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
C Hopwood wrote:

Deez Nuts,

No one is turning a blind eye. This is a travesty that has garnered a lot of attention and needs to stop. It appears to have stopped though, at least for now. No further damage is being done. Major transgressors have owned up to it and promised not to repeat their actions. So I would advocate for a level headed discussion about what to do with existing routes, and action after community consensus is developed. Vigilante justice is a good way to start a bolt war, which benefits no one. 

Go to the Ark (as well as the new stuff that you will find if you take the left fork where the trail meets the wall) if you truly believe this. People in canyon can attest that this is still going on, albeit less often and less obvious. 

Josh Lipko · · Charlotte · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10

Please stop calling them “the 18” that is lame as fuck

Tradman Man · · Lake Forest · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0
Josh Lipko wrote: Please stop calling them “the 18” that is lame as fuck

How about the Ten Sleep Rock Rescue Team?  That does seem more appropriate. 

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10

How about “People Against Trashing the Rock Inconsiderately Of Ten Sleep”......The “PATRIOTS”

Haha. 

Deez Nuts · · Springfield · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

Everyone I knew in socal were thrilled when Gluey got to work on the quarry, mainly because they thought it would keep his shit work off natural stone. They were wrong. And if you think he is done in ten sleep you are wrong. If you think he won't take his shit to the next crag, wrong again.

J. R. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 145
J T wrote:

Go to the Ark (as well as the new stuff that you will find if you take the left fork where the trail meets the wall) if you truly believe this. People in canyon can attest that this is still going on, albeit less often and less obvious.

Are the mono's on Joy of Heresy drilled?  That would explain the name.  What about the mono on Cocaine Rodeo?  Both 5-star routes my most peoples account. What is real?
Julian H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 5

Don’t they have a guy in Kalymnos whose job is to bolt and mentain the routes? If you have one person doing all the drilling and doing the route development based on a certain standards there will be no more tensleep drama.

I find it ridiculous that climbing companies make so much money and they don’t are not involved more in supporting climbing areas. They should pay for people updating and developing new routes. They make money from climbing and it is in they interest to protect their investment. You know capitalism and all that shit.  

ninjavan1sh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0
Julian H wrote:I find it ridiculous that climbing companies make so much money and they don’t are not involved more in supporting climbing areas. They should pay for people updating and developing new routes. They make money from climbing and it is in they interest to protect their investment. You know capitalism and all that shit.  

i'd venture to say "climbing/outdoors companies" do a decent job at giving back, i.e. REI, Patagonia, Columbia, etc...Why would they waste their time getting involved with a local crag?  the only reason why this tiny slice of earth is even making news is because of the drama.  And calling it 'news' relative to the rest of the world is being generous.

And yes, they make money from climbing....because climbers willingly give them money for their products. They really dont owe us shit except quality products which we chose or chose not to purchase.  capitalism works both ways.
J T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
J. R. wrote: Are the mono's on Joy of Heresy drilled?  That would explain the name.  What about the mono on Cocaine Rodeo?  Both 5-star routes my most peoples account. What is real?

A. Both of those routes were put up during a time when drilling was more acceptable, it is not longer that way. 

B. I haven't climbed Cocain Rodeo is years so I won't comment on it as I don't remember a drilled pocket, but I believe Heresy would not go without that SINGULAR drilled pocket.

Again the issue here is that the trend has been that there are anywhere from 10-30 drilled pockets per route that Louie puts up, as well as it is no longer acceptable to be drilling pockets on climbable rock. There are plenty of routes in TS. There's no need for more. The area doesn't need more climbers. If you can't find one of the 600-800+ routes in Aaron's guidebook (600-800+ routes that have existed for 20+ years with no drama surrounding then, with the exception of a handful) then climb somewhere else. If there were one or two routes over the course of 2-3 years this would not have lead to bolt wars, however I venture a guess that there are close to 100 routes now that have been heavily manufactured by multiple parties, not just Louie. 
Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 316
Josh Lipko wrote: Please stop calling them “the 18” that is lame as fuck

Mikey Wally · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 7,044

do boulderers drill pockets? never heard of this drama bouldering (but it's probbaly out there, i've heard of cutting trees down for problems and glueing holds back on or reinforcing them but drilling?!). if you can't get up you leave it for the next generation.  if a climb doesnt go without a drilled pocket maybe it goes with aid, i dunno. fuck manufacturing, i like sharp holds that cut fingers, THAT IS CLIMBING ROCKS, rocks are sharp. stay inside if you don't like it imo.

Corey Flynn · · USA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 150

Hopefully the ethics police stay in ten sleep and out of the land of manufactured climbs, cough, I mean rifle

Deez Nuts · · Springfield · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

Wally, Gluey drilled pockets and chipped edges   in granite boulders in socal that made the gunks chipper guy's work look pretty.

Nathan Witt · · Roanoke, Va · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 2,470
Mikey Wally wrote: do boulderers drill pockets? never heard of this drama bouldering (but it's probbaly out there, i've heard of cutting trees down for problems and glueing holds back on or reinforcing them but drilling?!). if you can't get up you leave it for the next generation.  if a climb doesnt go without a drilled pocket maybe it goes with aid, i dunno. fuck manufacturing, i like sharp holds that cut fingers, THAT IS CLIMBING ROCKS, rocks are sharp. stay inside if you don't like it imo.

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/chipping-controversy/ 

This dude was essential blacklisted from the bouldering community after this. EDELRID dropped him immediately and he faded into obscurity. Most "manufacturing" incidents I've seen in bouldering is usually people reinforcing holds that could potentially break with epoxy. Doesn't mean's it's okay, but I think it's a little different than just going at the rock with a bit like you're a sculptor. The guy in question in Ten Sleep genuinely seems like he doesn't get it, which is infuriating. At least dudes like Ivan Greene were sneaking around because they knew they were wrong. Anderson and his lot are just so brazen. Agreed with your point on rock being sharp. If you don't like it, stay inside where it's safe.
Mikey Wally · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 7,044
Deez Nuts wrote: Wally, Gluey drilled pockets and chipped edges   in granite boulders in socal that made the gunks chipper guy's work look pretty.

where? i only know about his sport stuff.

m Mobes · · MDI, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 905

Dun dum dum dum dum... 


Derek Young · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 167
Nathan Witt wrote:

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/chipping-controversy/ 

This dude was essential blacklisted from the bouldering community after this. EDELRID dropped him immediately and he faded into obscurity. Most "manufacturing" incidents I've seen in bouldering is usually people reinforcing holds that could potentially break with epoxy. Doesn't mean's it's okay, but I think it's a little different than just going at the rock with a bit like you're a sculptor. The guy in question in Ten Sleep genuinely seems like he doesn't get it, which is infuriating. At least dudes like Ivan Greene were sneaking around because they knew they were wrong. Anderson and his lot are just so brazen. Agreed with your point on rock being sharp. If you don't like it, stay inside where it's safe.
Yeah - Ivan Greene. Definitely was great at hiding it and staying low key.  Kept it way under the radar.  Begin the meme challenge...

Nathan Witt · · Roanoke, Va · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 2,470
Derek Young wrote: Yeah - Ivan Greene. Definitely was great at hiding it and staying low key.  Kept it way under the radar.  Begin the meme challenge...

That's a strong 11 out of 10 the dbag scale. For a good laugh, scope the coffee company he founded on Instagram, Pudge Knuckles. It's the perfect recipe of narcissism and misogyny.

Julian H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 5
Nathan Witt wrote:

That's a strong 11 out of 10 the dbag scale. For a good laugh, scope the coffee company he founded on Instagram, Pudge Knuckles. It's the perfect recipe of narcissism and misogyny.

Don’t worry the gov’t put and end to his coffee empire. I heard he is moving to Ten sleep, where chipping is allowed 

https://www.dnainfo.com/new-york/20160407/williamsburg/pudge-knuckles-shuttered-for-dodging-130k-taxes-state-says
Nathan Witt · · Roanoke, Va · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 2,470
Julian H wrote:

Don’t worry the gov’t put and end to his coffee empire. I heard he is moving to Ten sleep, where chipping is allowed 

https://www.dnainfo.com/new-york/20160407/williamsburg/pudge-knuckles-shuttered-for-dodging-130k-taxes-state-says

Wooooooow! I totally slept on that story. Thanks for sharing!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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