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Gannett peak bergshrund

Original Post
Tallan McCulloch · · Hyrum, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Looking for some tips and tricks to passing a bergshrund if there is no snow bridge. Do you simply belay down into it then ice climb out? Just want to see if there are any other methods or certain gear i should have before tackling a bergshrund.

Peter Green · · Davis, CA and Sisters, OR · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

Check both ends to see if you can climb around on rock -- and of course, bring some pieces of protection for same.

I have also been belayed down into a bergschrund, but that's because I had dropped some gear!  (Try not to drop gear.)

-Peter

t.farrell · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 60

Long jump

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Have your Sherpa span the gap with a ladder. Works in the Khumbu icefall.

Peter Green · · Davis, CA and Sisters, OR · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

One of life's thrills: belaying someone jumping a crevasse.

(And if you don't manage the rope well, conversing afterwards will be even more exciting!)

And another method for crossing is to ski, which may (in the downhill direction) involve a jump.  (And if so, more likely to be possible to land safely with skis on one's boots than jumping with crampons!)

-PGG

Abandoned User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 9,705

When are you planning to climb?

Don Morris · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 1,236

Hopefully, with the amount of snow this year the bridge will be in. August 2018 it was in, and it required only a few steps to cross.

John E. Pearson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0
Jaren Watson wrote: When are you planning to climb?


John E. Pearson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

My wife and I plan on summiting about July 21-23. We have minimal glacier travel experience. In 2005 my son and I climbed Hood w/ guide.  2007 My wife and I took a week long mountaineering course on Baker and then summited Rainier with my son.  Other than that I don't know that we've been on a rope since Rainier. I know a lot of people follow the boot pack across the bergschrund on the snow bridge unprotected. Rainier was the same way. The Rainier boot track did some pretty funky stuff. I don't subscribe to "follow the boot pack what could go wrong?" philosophy.  I hope we can hone our skills enough to make it across safely or to decide not to cross it. In any event, I understand it is a newbie type question.  Never-the-less l hope some serious answers are posted.

Tallan McCulloch · · Hyrum, UT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

I plan on climbing the first week in August.

Henryluedtke · · Wisconsin · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 15

Can't really answer your question but I've heard there's crazy snow up there right now. Doesn't means there's a bridge though. 

Abandoned User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 9,705
Henryluedtke wrote: Can't really answer your question but I've heard there's crazy snow up there right now. Doesn't means there's a bridge though. 

It’s not a guarantee, but it’s a mighty safe bet.

Jackson Parks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 80

I summitted Gannett on 7/5 with no issues.  The berg was totally buried as were the crevasses.  Things have been melting out, but I'd be amazed if you encountered any issues.  Good luck and be safe.

DavisMeschke Guillotine · · Laradise · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 225

If the bridge is out, there is easy rock on the right side of the Gooseneck couloir that NOLS has equipped with rap anchors; a small set of stoppers will suffice for protecting the short (30ft) pitch. Also , there is another couloir farther right that goes as well. Or just skip the Gooseneck route altogether and hit the SE couloir. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Mountaineering
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