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Temple Crag Conditions


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BruceLeroy · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

Has anyone been out to the Temple Crag area yet, this year? Conditions?

Matt Thomsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 182

I heard there is a lot of snow starting at 1st lake. But, one of my friends did climb VB recently. Still wet in many spots.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,108

Remaining snow might be useful in reaching the bottom start of some of the rock routes.

If it's icy, perhaps find a sharp rock (or two) to use as a dagger.
Might also be helpful for frozen mud.

I read that long ago when alpine ice on Temple Crag often surrounded the bottom starts, some parties would use ice axes for that, then throw them back down to the bottom before starting their rock climbing.

Ken

Abandoned User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 6,830

Is Bruce Leroy your real name or do you know the Shogun of Harlem?  That would be awesome if you know who is the master.

I make no promises, as I have to get permission from my girlfriend first, but I might be heading out there in the very near future to get me an adventure and some alpine rock and ice. I’ll post pictures for you and the community if I do. 

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 325
kenr wrote: Remaining snow might be useful in reaching the bottom start of some of the rock routes.

If it's icy, perhaps find a sharp rock (or two) to use as a dagger.
Might also be helpful for frozen mud.

I read that long ago when alpine ice on Temple Crag often surrounded the bottom starts, some parties would use ice axes for that, then throw them back down to the bottom before starting their rock climbing.

Ken

This  is what we did when we climbed TC(many years ago). Threw the axe/crampons back down the snowfield and picked them up on the way down.

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 242
J V wrote:I make no promises, as I have to get permission from my girlfriend first, but I might be heading out there in the very near future to get me an adventure and some alpine rock and ice. I’ll post pictures for you and the community if I do. 

You need permission from the GF!?!? Time to ditch her. 

Ryan Huetter · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 255
kenr wrote: 
I read that long ago when alpine ice on Temple Crag often surrounded the bottom starts, some parties would use ice axes for that, then throw them back down to the bottom before starting their rock climbing.

This works out great until some A-Hole walks by while you are still climbing the route and steals your well-marked bag with 3 axes!

Temple routes are dry, snow to the bases, obviously, but good bucket steps. Lower rap is not melted out, so it's about a 38 meter rap to the col, or a bit of down climbing if you are climbing on a 50 or a 60m. 
Abandoned User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 6,830
master gumby wrote:

You need permission from the GF!?!? Time to ditch her. 

There’s more to life than climbing. I live in the real world bro. 

BruceLeroy · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0
J V wrote: Is Bruce Leroy your real name or do you know the Shogun of Harlem?  That would be awesome if you know who is the master.

I make no promises, as I have to get permission from my girlfriend first, but I might be heading out there in the very near future to get me an adventure and some alpine rock and ice. I’ll post pictures for you and the community if I do. 


BruceLeroy · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

The leanest , meanest low down mofo..

BruceLeroy · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

Thank you for your replies.  We are thinking about going this weekend to check it out. Need to escape the Vegas oven. 

BruceLeroy · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0
Ryan Huetter wrote:

This works out great until some A-Hole walks by while you are still climbing the route and steals your well-marked bag with 3 axes!

Temple routes are dry, snow to the bases, obviously, but good bucket steps. Lower rap is not melted out, so it's about a 38 meter rap to the col, or a bit of down climbing if you are climbing on a 50 or a 60m. 


BruceLeroy · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks for the info Ryan 

pjc30943 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
BruceLeroy wrote: Thanks for the info Ryan 

Good luck this weekend, Bruce. If you have any conditions to share afterwards of the region, it'd be useful.

neils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 30

I was there Wed and Thurs 6/26 and 6/27.  No snow on the trail up to 2nd lake.  Snow started on the approach a bit out of beach camp.  Snow on the approach covering the talus to the base of the routes.  We did Venusian Blind. No snow on the route.  Snow on the summit plateau after the end of the route.  A bit of snow climbing to get to the top, then snow in Contact Pass for the descent.  We used trail runners with strap on crampons and each had an ice axe - no issues whatsoever.  We saw people on Sun Ribbon and Moon Goddess as well. 

BruceLeroy · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0
neils wrote: I was there Wed and Thurs 6/26 and 6/27.  No snow on the trail up to 2nd lake.  Snow started on the approach a bit out of beach camp.  Snow on the approach covering the talus to the base of the routes.  We did Venusian Blind. No snow on the route.  Snow on the summit plateau after the end of the route.  A bit of snow climbing to get to the top, then snow in Contact Pass for the descent.  We used trail runners with strap on crampons and each had an ice axe - no issues whatsoever.  We saw people on Sun Ribbon and Moon Goddess as well. 


BruceLeroy · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks Neil.  Headed there Sunday 

Patrick Michel · · Yosemite · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

Any updates as far as needing an ice axe or crampons for sun ribbon arete?  Curious if they are necessary for the approach or just for the top out/descent

Patrick Herrmann · · San Luis Obispo, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0

Did Moon goddess and dark star this past weekend. No crampons/axe necessary, you can kick steps up in your approach shoes. Nice little glissade on the way down. Again, no snow gear required. I brought some microspikes and never considered using them.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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