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Rope soloing with grigri and pulley to make falling any direction safer?(not TR)

Original Post
Tyler Nelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

From what i read a grigri will catch you unless you fall in the wrong way, so if you put a pulley between the grigri and anchor like on a chest harness so it always pulls locked, and just pull slack as you climb, should be safe to fall in any direction right?
New to climbing solo... and outdoors... but im not very social and would like to climb alone most of the time lol sorry if my description sucked or was unclear in anyway

Greg Miller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,200

Look into the edelrid eddy with a BD or metolious belay carabiner; it’s awesome for lead solo and catches falls well. Flaking the rope In a pack keeps it from getting snagged and also keeps the break strand in grabbing distance. You do have to feed rope as you make moves, but as long as you flake it well in a top loading pack there aren’t usually issues.

Ian F · · Pennsylvania · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 1,861

Lead solo is a whole other ballgameJoin the rope solo climbing group in Facebook. You can see a lot of people's setups and their experiences with it. In my opinion lead rope soloing is best reserved for aid climbing. There are so many ways to badly fuck up free climbing this way and I certainly wouldn't be comfortable solo free climbing on the set up you described.

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 916

If the pulley gets too close to the grigri, the grigri can’t move away from your harness and it can’t lock.  If you’ve ever heard stories about light belayers being dragged into the first quickdraw of a route and the grigri staying unlocked, that could happen with the pulley & grigri. 

Aidan Raviv · · South Pasadena, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 100

YGD period

Don Ferris III · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

If you want to climb with a backpack full of rope the eddy is supposed to be the way to go.

Otherwise, you have two (three) options:

Modified Grigri with backup knots and a Micro Traxion to manage slack. This method I’ve found can be fine with the right rope but often it makes free climbing cumbersome. Nothing is worse than when you go to make a move and your setup holds you down. This is to be expected sometimes but can be mitigated for the most part. Also, an older grigri or the newest is best for this application as the rope sometimes gets caught behind the cam on the grigri 2. Lame. Again, rope is key. Also, double cliping gear occasionally so rope doesn’t auto-feed is paramount. If you don’t know what I mean, think harder.

The hot setup is the silent partner. Check out Pete Whitaker’s rope solo freerider video. Rad as fuck. Obviously, he has his setup dialed and uses a Micro Traxion to manage slack and backup knots. Common theme with the non backpack options. Good luck finding a silent partner...

The (third) option is to imitate Pete’s setup but instead use a Revo. I’ve only climbed one route like this but it worked well. Honestly, I wish it didn’t feed as well as it does as I have to double clip gear much more often than with a grigri. If a solution to this could be found this will probably become the hot setup. There do seem to be a couple failure modes that make me cautious with the Revo but at least you can fall upside down. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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