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Bay Area crack machine


Original Post
TaylorP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

This is a total long shot...but does anyone in the Bay area have a crack trainer and willing to share? I have been working on off-widths but it's hard to make any progress when I can only get out a few times a month. I'll pay you in beer, food, belays (or cash).

Alternatively...does anyone know where I can practice wide stuff that would be accessible from SF on weekdays?

Thanks!

Trevor Salom · · San Jose · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 6

Can’t help you out with a fancy home crack machine (unless you want to build one), but id take a look at this:
http://www.mxi2000.net/mudworm/2016/03/a-climbers-guide-to-planet-granite-cracks

TaylorP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Trevor Salom wrote: Can’t help you out with a fancy home crack machine (unless you want to build one), but id take a look at this:
http://www.mxi2000.net/mudworm/2016/03/a-climbers-guide-to-planet-granite-cracks

Wow thanks. I need to drop my touchstone membership and get PG

Mark P Thomas · · Draperdurr, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 1,050

Another option is to just pay for a day pass at PG on rainy weekends when you can't climb cracks outside. Go in the morning and climb a full day of nothing but cracks, with a long lunch break in between to help last longer. With 6-8 hrs of climbing gotten in that way, that makes for a great training & endurance day, and makes the day pass price seem worth it. Keep Touchstone for convenience if you are in Oakland, Berkeley, or Walnut Creek. There are still a decent amount of crack sizes to play with between Berkeley Ironworks and Great Western Power Company on your frequent gym times. That worked well for me when I lived out there (mostly using Presidio or Sunnyvale as my rainy day gyms. Only went to Belmont once).

Mark P Thomas · · Draperdurr, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 1,050

Also, if you can track him down, Zander (in Berkeley) has a few wide cracks in his wood shop, including a Steck-Salathe Narrows simlator:


TaylorP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

That's awesome thanks Mark. I gotta find this Zander guy

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 783
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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