Mountain Project Logo

The diamond

Original Post
Peter Jacobs · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 35

Can anyone tell me what the conditions are on the diamond? Or how to find out?

Thanks!!

jon jugenheimer · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,525

How to find out?  Go a have a look
Conditions? google, Webcam.  

Chris Sheridan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,625

there are still several snow mushrooms on the Diamond, lots of snow on broadway, and the north chimney is probably full of snow and ice.

Malcolm Daly · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380
Peter Jacobs · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 35

Thanks Chris Sheridan! Do you think it’s a total “no go” then or go with caution? I’m an experienced climber but I’ve only done one other alpine climb.  The Incredible Hulk. 

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 880

Wait a few weeks for it to dry out the melt off is late this year still lots of snow up high 

Philip Magistro · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0
Peter Jacobs wrote: Thanks Chris Sheridan! Do you think it’s a total “no go” then or go with caution? I’m an experienced climber but I’ve only done one other alpine climb.  The Incredible Hulk. 

I would recommend you knock off a couple south facing classics like the Petite and Saber while waiting for it to dry out.  I assume you are looking at the Casual Route, which is largely in north-facing dihedrals and stays wet for a long time.  

Also, climbing on the D is logistically complicated as compared to cragging.  Building up a bit more alpine experience beforehand won't be a waste of time.
wayne willoughby · · SEATTLE · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 95

Excellent advice from Phillip.  The Diamond can be a warm sunny place, that can become something very, very different very quickly.

Peter Jacobs · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 35

I was actually hoping to do D7 and Pervertical, but I take your point and agree. Thank you for the recommendations for other climbs!

Philip Magistro · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0
Peter Jacobs wrote: I was actually hoping to do D7 and Pervertical, but I take your point and agree. Thank you for the recommendations for other climbs!

D7 and Pervertical get much more sun than the Casual, and can also be aided if it proves cold and icy.  Regardless climbing up there now is complicated by the need for crampons/microspikes and a light axe for the approach pitches and the NF descent.  Climbing the Saber would be a great warm up with easier approach/crux/descent.  Then maybe try something on Chasm View wall afterwards to familiarize yourself with the general area and style of climbing up there.  Going now would be a proper alpine adventure.


For what it is worth, I think that given the crowds on the D once conditions get nice, you are prudent to go up with the rack for Pervertical  (1-2 #4s) and remaining flexible so you can jump on the open line rather than waiting behind a party because you have your heart set on such-and-such a route.  I haven't climbed a ton of routes on the Diamond but have yet to be disappointed. 
Chris Sheridan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,625

This might be my favourite time of year to be on the diamond. The snow keeps a lot of people away and adds a nice alpine element to the adventure, and if you're in the sun, the temps can be pretty darn pleasant. You can just climb in boots and crampons up to Broadway then rap back down and get them on your way out. Alternately, have the follower jumar with a pack carrying both pairs of boots, crampons, and ice axes so that you can go for the summit in true alpine style. Or just suck it up and follow the pitches free with a heavy pack. It's a great experience.

Some things to keep in mind: There's usually a snow mushroom at the base of the Casual Route dihedral. If that thing cut loose while you're climbing up towards it, I think it will fall cleanly off to the left of the route, but I can't say I know that for a fact. There's another 1000+ pound snow mushroom that forms right above the Casual Route traverse. On one ascent, that snow mushroom calved off right after I finished following the traverse pitch. Had we gotten a little bit later of a start, I'd be dead now for sure. I do suggest waiting until that guy falls off for the season before climbing anything in that area.  Also, the Casual route dihedral stays in the shade; its pretty cold and a little wet, but its bearable, and it might even be just the kind of adventure some people look for.

Matthew Sharpe · · boulder · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 15

From Twin Sisters today:


Higher Res (4288 × 2848)
Daniel Kay · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 30

From MLW, top of Martha’s. 6/17/2019.
(Martha’s is out of condition, if you are wondering)

K Weber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 15

Wait for the dry 14 in Sept.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "The diamond"

Log In to Reply