I ended up finding Butora Alturas on sale on Campsaver. I chose em over TC Pros after reading a few people preferred them for cracks and I like the fit. Those and Ocun gloves got me half way up my gym crack first try. I couldn't get off the deck before. Thanks for all the tips, very much.
Tape is the only thing I’ve been able to use, just a quick wrap around the hands. Anywhere, gym or rock. Eurotape is my flavor. I don’t like tape gloves because they move on your jam, at least they do on me. But I tend to sweat a lot..that will hamper your tape gloves, at least in my day.
I haven’t used the hand jammies, but if they work for you, awesome. Your both protecting your hands, and a bacterial Petri Dish in all cracks from bleeding. I, for one, commend you. Good luck, you will get stronger and more efficient.
Dude you just need to modify your technique, rather than jamming with your big to you need to go in at an angle just tourquing in your smaller toes, you don't see the likes of TC and honnold swapping shoes to get up hard finger cracks.
That being said if you're happy to buy another shoe I have found solutions to works very well in finger cracks and have heard great things about skwarmas in fine cracks too.
Tommy and Honnold aren’t that into super hard crack climbs. Those who are DEFINITELY use different shoes for different sizes, it’s pretty much mandatory, or just use Moccs all the time because there’s no downside unless you’re doing a lot of hard edging outside of the crack. Not saying the OP should buy a second pair of shoes, but the pros certainly do.
Tommy and Honnold aren’t that into super hard crack climbs.
Because cobra crack and digital crack just aren't hard crack climbs.
Those who are DEFINITELY use different shoes for different sizes, it’s pretty much mandatory, or just use Moccs all the time because there’s no downside unless you’re doing a lot of hard edging outside of the crack. Not saying the OP should buy a second pair of shoes, but the pros certainly do.
Alex uses skwarmas in fine cracks and used to use testarosa.
My comment isn't thta they never do its that when they're climbing 5.13 cracks up on el cap they're not swapping out shoes.
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