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Help Attaining Easy Climb in Red River Gorge

Original Post
James Lantz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Andy Lantz · 1 day ago · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0 Have a rather unusual request.  I am interested in climbing to the top of a rock plateau in the Star Gap Arch area of RRG.

Why:   Great photo op.
           Because it's there.

 Here are some particulars:

1) ~ 35 feet
2) Trad (I have never trad climbed before but I do see some placement points) or free solo.
3) Grade ~ 5.5-5.6 all slab, but with some cracks.
4) Lower by rap
5) I have experience lead belaying outside.
6) ~ 1.5 mile hike in.
7) I would follow TRing from anchor point at top.

Realizing this may be awkward, unorthodox, and perhaps inappropriate, do you know of anyone who may be interested in helping me out? If not, do you have any suggestions?  This is an easy climb for anyone at a reasonable level; in my younger days I would have just free soloed it without worries.

 I am glad to pay for it!

Looking forward to hearing from you!


Chris Votaw · · Georgetown, KY · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

So your question is asking for someone to guide you up a trad climb in the north gorge? 

James Lantz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Well, yes.  This climb will be easy for a climber with a reasonable set of skills (>/= 5.10).  I think someone at that level will view it as a large bouldering problem.  Again, I'd say the grade is 5.5 - 5.6.  There are 2 ways to attain the plateau, with some cracks for trad placement.

I have only sport climbed and lead belayed.

Thanks for replying!

Sawyer W · · Van · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Is it courthouse rock?

James Lantz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

No. Not courthouse. See black circle on the attached please.  Thanks for replying!

Mike Wilkinson · · Lexington, KY · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 266

Do you have a photo of the "climb" you saw?

Eugenel Espiritu · · PA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,096

Hire a guide. After talking with my friend who a lawyer in this realm of lawyering, if someone agrees to take you up is liable for anything that happens to you. It would be better for you just to find a guide at one of the many guide services in RRG.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Did you have a chance to explore the online guide?

mproj - Haystack

James Lantz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Regrettably, I do not have a photo (wish I did).  Will be happy to get one in a few weeks.
Regarding hiring a guide, some responses have been received.  All state they are not licensed to climb in this particular area.
Yes, quite familiar with RRCC guide.

Thank you for the replies!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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