Mountain Project Logo

New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #7


Lori Milas · · Rocklin, Ca · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175
Carl Schneider wrote:

I's great you're considering the speed at which you climb.  Ondra has a great video on climbing rhythm, and I love to watch him climb, he's fast when he needs to be and rests where he should, such great rhythm...

Carl.... how are you doing? Are you over your blues yet?  

Something has radically changed for me in the last few weeks, both indoors and out.  I'm at a loss.  I feel like it was just a decision to move... to be more decisive, and stop wasting time.  Truly, just a conscious decision to pick up the pace.  Also, I'm embarrassed to say, it's taken me this long to understand the value of reading routes from the ground first. (I don't know how well this works outdoors).  Worked on an overhung route yesterday at the gym I was sure would be too hard... but I could see that the crux was a series of holds getting onto the headwall, and it had to go left hand on first hold, match hands, reach left, right, left, and then reach out right.  Working that out on the ground allowed me to get through it before I lost strength.  Just a little forethought, curiosity and playfulness. And gratitude.   

   
Mark Orsag · · Omaha, NE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 815
Safely working out the moves on Cricket Fling. The weird crux section (slight bulge to blank slab) begins maybe 5 feet above my head in this picture.
Lori Milas · · Rocklin, Ca · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175
Mark Orsag wrote:
Safely working out the moves on Cricket Fling. The weird crux section (slight bulge to blank slab) begins maybe 5 feet above my head in this picture.

Yup. See it.  Wish you had a video.  Looks really fun. 

Mark Orsag · · Omaha, NE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 815

Lori,

As a fellow slab aficionado, thought you would appreciate. Very good climb. Maybe ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️s out of four. Bit of munge at the bottom and Super sustained 10ish slab moves for 50 feet. Followed by 10 ft. Of harder crux with one cussedly awkward move. Got my eye on an 11b/c slab once I have my full granite legs!

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, Ca · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175
Mark Orsag wrote: Lori,

As a fellow slab aficionado, thought you would appreciate. Very good climb. Maybe ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️s out of four. Bit of munge at the bottom and Super sustained 10ish slab moves for 50 feet. Followed by 10 ft. Of harder crux with one cussedly awkward move. Got my eye on an 11b/c slab once I have my full granite legs!

Oh, Mark... we are cut of the same cloth and I hope your trip is getting better by the minute!  It is true that no sooner do I come down from a ridiculously hard climb than my eye is on a much harder, more impossible route.  It's the nature of this addiction... and there is no 12-step program for it.  Have fun!  Report in as you can!!!  

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 648
 I hope everyone has a great weekend,  Thursday climbing was a blast got in around 950 feet of climbing nobody around multi pitch all day and a few single pitches weather was nice at 7000’ 
Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 138

^^^ Living the life. Every climber can avoid crowds if they make the effort.

Why do so few make that effort?

I mean, thank God they don't...makes them so easy to avoid.

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 648
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: ^^^ Living the life. Every climber can avoid crowds if they make the effort.

Why do so few make that effort?

I mean, thank God they don't...makes them so easy to avoid.

 It’s like a herd of cattle Herd mentality. I would say a large percentage of the climbing community are social climbers which is fine I prefer solitude most of the time.

Mark Orsag · · Omaha, NE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 815

The Black Hills are a solitude place. One of the things that I love about it. We did briefly encounter two other parties and talked to one while we did parallel routes on the same formation. They older folks on a road trip described Rushmore as “climbers’ heaven” as opposed to the “hellish” scene-oriented overcrowded crag that they had just been at... Ironically, the very place where I am planning my “new place to climb trip” this year :(!

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 612
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:  Every climber can avoid crowds if they make the effort.

Went with a couple of friends up to Holcomb Valley Pinnacles last Tuesday.  We saw only one other party  climbing, way off in the distance.  This is an extremely popular set of small crags that hosts hundreds of LA area climbers every weekend.  So being retired and having a flexible schedule makes all the difference, even with short approach,  "crowded" areas.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 974
Warmup scenery
Warmup scenery, the big stuff still up the road...

Plans for COR trip next weekend canceled (by the person who invited me, and for good reasons), so I volunteered to be the driver for two mountaineer friends. They were 21 hours of type two fun, trailhead to trailhead. I drove so they could sleep, both ways.

Sitting at a trailhead campsite, all day, into the night, the only one there, I realized I hadn't really been that ​solo, ever. Usually with someone, driving, someplace where people come through, even if sparse....That was interesting, especially at this point in my life.

Next settled trip plans are clear out in August, for the Idaho Mountain Festival, but I expect I'll do stuff in July too. Somewhere. This weekend was a very last minute thing, my offer to drive.

Don't want to climb with crowds? Go where they aren't, or when they don't go. It was prime season for COR on the trip I just made, yet, we were all alone, even in our campground, mostly. Why? Because tstorms were forecast every day, and people bailed. Didn't even show up. They happened every day, but we also climbed every day. That's the big advantage many of us have, is a knowledge of "place", knowing the weather patterns, etc. In this case, we also were at lesser climbed areas at City. Fun stuff, just not the 'classics', or, no anchors, or 'old school' routes, or....

Fun, fun, fun!

Best, Helen

Edit to add: my lawn could hide stalking tigers now. ;-)
Mike Kaserman · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

57 years old as of yesterday!  I got to be at a relatively new crag, no crowds, with some great friends.  School's out for this teacher; it was my fourth day of climbing this week, and second in a row.  I sucked, but had fun.  Two recovery days are certainly in order.
Good to hear that so many of you are getting out!  Great weather, great places.  Give me a shout if you're climbing in the SLC area.

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 648
Happy Father’s Day to all the fathers out there, hopefully some of these fathers got to go climbing like I did today!
SeƱor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Jeffrey Constine wrote:
Happy Father’s Day to all the fathers out there, hopefully some of these fathers got to go climbing like I did today!

Interesting angle on a familiar spot. Thanks for that shot. 

Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Lori Milas wrote:

Carl.... how are you doing? Are you over your blues yet?  

Something has radically changed for me in the last few weeks, both indoors and out.  I'm at a loss.  I feel like it was just a decision to move... to be more decisive, and stop wasting time.  Truly, just a conscious decision to pick up the pace.  Also, I'm embarrassed to say, it's taken me this long to understand the value of reading routes from the ground first. (I don't know how well this works outdoors).  Worked on an overhung route yesterday at the gym I was sure would be too hard... but I could see that the crux was a series of holds getting onto the headwall, and it had to go left hand on first hold, match hands, reach left, right, left, and then reach out right.  Working that out on the ground allowed me to get through it before I lost strength.  Just a little forethought, curiosity and playfulness. And gratitude.   

   

Hi.  SORT of, getting there.  Resigned myself to not climbing for up to three months to fully get over the injury. And now I'm getting fat, up to 67 kilos today which means I've put on 4 kilos.  However, decided I was maybe too skinny before so now my target weight is 64.5.

Being decisive when climbing is important.  Yes, of course reading a route outside from the ground is important :-)

That route looks cool.  It'd be way cool with an undercling just a tad higher than where your right foot is, and with a footer out right, so you had to reach way high with the left hand...
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 648
This was the culprit Senior A mavic 
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Jeffrey Constine wrote:
This was the culprit Senior A mavic 

Senior A mavic?

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 648
FrankPS wrote:

Senior A mavic?

DJI Mavic Pro drone I pulled the picture from the actual screen so that’s why the photo isn’t very good otherwise it’s probably filmed in 4K

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, Ca · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175
Carl Schneider wrote:

Hi.  SORT of, getting there.  Resigned myself to not climbing for up to three months to fully get over the injury. And now I'm getting fat, up to 67 kilos today which means I've put on 4 kilos.  However, decided I was maybe too skinny before so now my target weight is 64.5.

Being decisive when climbing is important.  Yes, of course reading a route outside from the ground is important :-)

That route looks cool.  It'd be way cool with an undercling just a tad higher than where your right foot is, and with a footer out right, so you had to reach way high with the left hand...

Carl, we are getting to know you now.     You are like one of  those young pups who goes out to play, gets himself all bashed up, pouts for awhile, and then goes right back and does it again.  BTW... where's your motorcycle?  What's been missing lately are your songs and poems... this is worrisome.    

The bummer about gym climbing is the routes are continually replaced.  This one may be gone today.  I'm just amazed that more often now when I look at something impossible, it turns out to be possible.  There's another route I tried last Thursday... much more difficult, I fell and hung in 3 different places. I just wore out on it.  But I thought... I'll be back for you.  This one has my name on it.  

I DESPERATELY miss the desert and more outdoor climbing.  I don't know if there's an end in sight...  
Lori Milas · · Rocklin, Ca · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175
Jeffrey Constine wrote:

DJI Mavic Pro drone I pulled the picture from the actual screen so that’s why the photo isn’t very good otherwise it’s probably filmed in 4K

Absolutely no reason to post this except your picture reminded me of my favorite scene from War of the Worlds... and I'm constantly thinking one day this shit will really happen.  :-)


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
Post a Reply to "New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #7"

Log In to Reply