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New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #7


Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 974

Lovely! I'll repost mine from a couple years ago. I'm so sorry I'll not get to meet Trish. She sounds wonderful!

The Six Zero Waltz (a love song from an old lady to her new love, climbing and climbers)

If I were the Queen of time,
I'd roll back the hands on all clocks.
I'd drop jets from the sky,
Contrails would die,
Tall ships would return to the docks.

I'd be a young girl back then,
Skinny, and TALL! Unafraid!
I'd DANCE and I'd BOX and
Smoke big fat cigars, to celebrate
the conquests I made.

HEH, heh, heh!

If I were the Queen of time, the
First thing that I'd like to do:
I'd conquer the terror of
dancing back then and dance, that
First dance with you.

But Time is the queen of us all.
Now and forever it seems.
That very young girl
lived long long ago, and she's only
A far distant dream.

They say:
Dreams are not life they are night.
They can only lead to a fall.

But.

If dreams cannot follow us.

Into the light.

Why?
Why?
Why should we wake up at all?

Best to all of you, for healing in all ways. Love you truly, Helen

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 181

Sorry I put a damper on things.

Do not go gentle into that good night.
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.


Ok, enough laying about, it's ok to feel sad, but it's time to get up and go do something.  

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, Ca · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175
Carl Schneider wrote: Just feeling meloncholy and verbose. Bit sad...

I decided today as I walked back to my car from buying flowers that I HAVE to get over my injury and get back to climbing (rather than simply giving up) as it'd take a long time to remove all my climbing stickers from my car, and I'd have to cut the climbing cord bracelets from my wrist, even the first one, and then what, then who and what am I?
Just an old guy sitting around thinking about how getting old sucks, and why can't we be gods?

So I'm making a Plan.

I shall not ever ever do what is IN the Plan; it has the same destiny as the books I gather up to take camping with me - to suffer arrogant dismissal, to be cast aside as mere props.

Yet the product of the Plan shall be valuable and sound; being the nourishing of that smouldering, burning, niggling, nagging, needling need to NOT lie down but to rise up.

To rise up, like a man dying from tuberculosis in a ghetto, lifting up his paper-thin torso, paper skin taught on bony frame, wide, thin, flat mouth coughing - propping on skinny bent arm, yes, weak, but propping!

Because he wants to prop paper skin torso to show he can.
There's defiance there.
Defiance.

Carl... a plan is good.  Glad you have one.  A plan keeps us going.  As far as rehab...  look up Esther Smith's videos.  They are SO GOOD for shoulders and fingers.  Helped me a lot.  

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, Ca · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175

Back here at home, back to climbing (it's a hard return   )...Watching videos has been enormously helpful in understanding my own climbing, since what I am 'feeling' while climbing looks nothing like what I see on playback.  For awhile at least, videos are helping a lot. 

I see that I just climb too slowly, and ponder too much... looking for holds, sequences, trying to decide if i can handle a move in front of me... and so my strength runs out.  On some recent indoor climbs I am now watching for places I could move quickly through a sequence so I have the reserves to muscle up the remainder of the climb.  I climbed my first 11a clean this week, simply because I decided to keep on moving, and not stop to ponder.

And on Sunday, up at Donner... on a 5.9 face... there were moves that required decisive action and confidence or take a fall.  I made the determination to move through it quickly... It's like "roll over onto that foot and STAND UP NOW".  So, I stood up and kept moving.

So much of these lessons roll right into life.  The need to call some shots, to take action, to move before the opportunity is gone.  Yet to decipher between recklessness and strength.  Growing up here...       (aren't we all?)

PS. Oh! I built my own anchors and rappelled from my climbs ... first time with backup belay... surprised that it was really so easy.  Feeling much better about it all.  Thank you to all.  

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,089
It's Sunny & Dry  with light breezes 75 degrees, here in small rock hell
I've scared off another child climber 
again, oh well.
Time to mow the lawn and then  limp toward Laps on my private crack
258-263The Easy wall
 I have a life time's worth of stone that I've pioneered here in Ct
#251 - where is this place?  some fresh climbs still to be had
Shoulder of Ravens Crest It can be a bit of a beat out to get to
Looking down trail, Hungry Bear Rock, upper left corner
phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 612
Nivel Egres wrote:

Is that Grand Illusion?

https://images.app.goo.gl/LGCfmb9fLKUdofJJ6

The link above is an image from Google images that shows why you might have thought that, Nigel.  Very similar composition in both photos.  It's so hard to get a sense from photos taken from below and straight on what the steepness of climbs is.   I have a photo somewhere that I took in the 80s of a friend of a friend climbing Grand Illusion.  The area where the climb starts is not the best vantage point to take a photo of someone climbing the route, at least in my photo you get no sense of how steep it is.  Now, with drones, I'm sure people can get much better shots.
Rokjox Teleski · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 15

It was a lot more fun when you got to tie some timid cameraman up high to the crag for an hour or two while you warmed up and ran the lap.

This sport aint all that it once was.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 974
Rokjox Teleski wrote: h., so you can be annoying after all.
=======================================================================================

I promised you a good time, not a crippling one.  I would have taken care of you.  And whoever was our chaperone.
You let your imagination get the best of you when I asked a couple questions about ability.
I was going to tailor something appropriate, once I knew what that was.
I think it would have been a gift, but for what I have no idea.  I get odd ideas on occasion.

======================================================================================

I am just feeling a little peeved right now, and I am misdirecting it.   I read your answer upthread; and I have no reason,
except that I have had this again happen once before and I am wondering how I must be presenting myself.  

I aint getting out enough.

Dont worry, I am over it.

I dont post my trips for points, I dont send a lot of photos into the intardnet to make it easy to "follow me".  
I worry only vaguely about what rating I climb at, so long as I am sufficient to the task I am working on.
I spent a very long stretch where I didnt have to ask for a partner or hunt for someone to amuse; them or me.  
I had partners of many sorts.  I was pretty and a little in demand... I held my own. my dates had fun.  Usually.

A lot of trips now are just recon, trying to find new places and they are flops... take a lot of time.  Dont find something.   Or find the wrong way.
((Or have the Army show up, ask that we not shoot their soldiers, put a squad APV guard on our vehicle, and run a military exercise around us as we squatted underground, inches away from passing armor.))

I tend to have stupid, unlikely things happen on occasions.  Never know when, but you have to go somewhere to have it happen.

All I really need is someone to run a map, open gates, close gates, push through mud, operate a shovel occasionally and talk at, while walking around looking for something.  Someone who doesnt step on rattlesnakes... someone who can drive if I do.  Or get stuck trying to crawl into some small hole looking for a larger hole.  Or provide some side stoke for something to keep me simmering.  I can be talked into a lot of stupid stuff, historically.

I swear, the paper and pencil noteboard outside the Sunnyside C4 kiosk was a hella lot better than digital dating sites.
What?  I gotta have people sign non-disclosure agreements?

This is actually quite nice. Your offer, earlier, and the preambles, were also quite nice. I'm sure you would have taken care of me, chaperone??!? No need. 

Here's the problem. I like, and respect, you. Which means I would not adventure into those tight spaces....because I would not be capable of taking care of you. ​I have been very, very careful to not risk my partners, who are with someone who may not even be able to walk back to the car, if that's the day my knees quit. And I just mean the Black Cliffs. I will risk more, sometimes, but those are people I know very, very well and I am very close to. Only three people on that list at the moment. I am deeply honored that you were even remotely willing to have me on your "rattlesnake" list.

Too bad my son is recently married and his life suddenly got busy. He is very much the same adventurer as you, and often solo on top of it. And very, very, capable.

Your kindnesses were very appreciated, and helped a lot. The last few years...tough is an understatement.

Wish you the best, coffee or lunch offer still stands, I am always up for meeting people.

Best, Helen
Mark Orsag · · Omaha, NE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 815

Good day today. Ended the day with 8 onsight and one redpoint (2nd try). Best was a 10+ slab. Will keep pushing...

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, Ca · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175
Mark Orsag wrote: Rain shut me down early at Rushmore today. Tomorrow’s forecast looks much better. Scouting between raindrops turned up three really interesting looking hard slabs that should suit me. Temps should be in 60s— perfect. Please stay dry tomorrow!

Mark I hope today turned out to be your day.  I don’t know how I missed the memo but unlike indoor climbing we climbers have to deal with weather. I know you’ve been looking forward to your trip for a long time. Let us know how it’s going!!!

——
On another note Pipeworks has raised the bar again: now they want a “comfortable 11b or c” to take the lead test.   That’s FINE. They can raise it all they want—I’ll catch up. I’m climbing 11’s now but not quite enough. Will try to get on this before the new rules are “comfortable 12’s” which might take a minute. 
I’ve been thinking about a talk I had with Chris this weekend while climbing at Donner. He vividly described a fall if it occurred just short of a bolt 20 feet up. That could be a 50 foot fall all in. Ouch??? It seems the universe is conspiring against my lead climbing. 
Maybe it’s the “old” thing. Do I look that fragile? My patience is wearing thin. 
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 658
 Tomorrow's fun spot. Hope everyone has a better week. I climb one for ya!
Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Lori Milas wrote: Back here at home, back to climbing (it's a hard return   )...Watching videos has been enormously helpful in understanding my own climbing, since what I am 'feeling' while climbing looks nothing like what I see on playback.  For awhile at least, videos are helping a lot.

I see that I just climb too slowly, and ponder too much... looking for holds, sequences, trying to decide if i can handle a move in front of me... and so my strength runs out.  On some recent indoor climbs I am now watching for places I could move quickly through a sequence so I have the reserves to muscle up the remainder of the climb.  I climbed my first 11a clean this week, simply because I decided to keep on moving, and not stop to ponder.

And on Sunday, up at Donner... on a 5.9 face... there were moves that required decisive action and confidence or take a fall.  I made the determination to move through it quickly... It's like "roll over onto that foot and STAND UP NOW".  So, I stood up and kept moving.

So much of these lessons roll right into life.  The need to call some shots, to take action, to move before the opportunity is gone.  Yet to decipher between recklessness and strength.  Growing up here...       (aren't we all?)

PS. Oh! I built my own anchors and rappelled from my climbs ... first time with backup belay... surprised that it was really so easy.  Feeling much better about it all.  Thank you to all.  

I's great you're considering the speed at which you climb.  Ondra has a great video on climbing rhythm, and I love to watch him climb, he's fast when he needs to be and rests where he should, such great rhythm...

Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Rokjox Teleski wrote: It was a lot more fun when you got to tie some timid cameraman up high to the crag for an hour or two while you warmed up and ran the lap.

This sport aint all that it once was.

Prompted by a copy of your post by Helen i looked up your profile thingy here.  Made me laugh :-)

wendy weiss · · boulder, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10
Lori Milas wrote:

Mark I hope today turned out to be your day.  I don’t know how I missed the memo but unlike indoor climbing we climbers have to deal with weather. I know you’ve been looking forward to your trip for a long time. Let us know how it’s going!!!

——
On another note Pipeworks has raised the bar again: now they want a “comfortable 11b or c” to take the lead test.   That’s FINE. They can raise it all they want—I’ll catch up. I’m climbing 11’s now but not quite enough. Will try to get on this before the new rules are “comfortable 12’s” which might take a minute. 
I’ve been thinking about a talk I had with Chris this weekend while climbing at Donner. He vividly described a fall if it occurred just short of a bolt 20 feet up. That could be a 50 foot fall all in. Ouch??? It seems the universe is conspiring against my lead climbing. 
Maybe it’s the “old” thing. Do I look that fragile? My patience is wearing thin. 

5.11 standard is nuts. Just my opinion.

Some climbing routes -- bolted as well as trad -- are more run-out than others. To get started leading, pick bolted ones that resemble gym routes or cracks you can lace up (even if your second hates you for it). 
Mark Orsag · · Omaha, NE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 815

Lori and all,

Weather held yesterday. Climbed really well- particularly for just getting on this rock here at Rushmore this year. Definitely above the norm, in terms of runout and grade stiffness. Got 9 pitches in... some were old faves like Fintastic 7+ and Burley Buttress 10-. Both excellent climbs 3 star climbs. A physical 10 called Warthog that was new for me (that route wasn’t on MP but soon will be) was a flash. My project route for the day was a devious 10d/10+ called Cricket Fling. Also not on MP...Sustained thoughtful 5.10 slab with a distinct brutally awkward crux move. Blew that move on the first attempt but got revenge 2nd try. Will try to post some pics when trip is done. Led a 5.6 R yesterday that was a super fun climb if you didn’t think about what would happen if you fell before clipping bolt #2. 40 feet of deck with bolt #1 15 feet off deck!

Mark Orsag · · Omaha, NE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 815
Cricket Fling 5.10+.
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,089

Very Nice !

Mark Orsag · 44 mins ago ·Wrote: 
 Crux sequence was to power right over the bulge just below top to a single small crystal pinch. Then stretch bump up left to two trashy holds. Stretched out with feet trapped under lip of bulge. Pull/smear through to a left high step and back long right to a mass of small crystals. Awkward as hell!


sICK,  sounds sketchy but,  ~ U know,  that ~

-  it is very high friction rock,

still try to not get your feet "handcuffed" stuck under a lip/bulge,  while reaching

~but I bet, you knew that too~
Mark Orsag · · Omaha, NE · Joined May 2013 · Points: 815

Crux sequence was to power right over the bulge just below top to a single small crystal pinch. Then stretch bump up left to two trashy holds. Stretched out with feet trapped under lip of bulge. Pull/smear through to a left high step and back long right to a mass of small crystals. Awkward as hell!

Lori Milas · · Rocklin, Ca · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175

It's summertime... and not much different from the summer of 1969.  Back then, we were taking love where we could find it... but we had a long life ahead.  Listening to Janis today, she defines again this time of life... is there anyone for whom this is not a 'get it while you can' time of life?

I had no idea that I would re-emerge with so much energy and readiness to go all out at this age.  In the climbing world, we're saying goodbye to another person who went all out... and those of us still remaining continue to do so.  Watching Jeffrey, Mark, Senor, Dallas, dragons, Erika, Wendy, Carl... Rich and all the rest here  (Helen!)... celebrating the fact that we still have breath and ability.   This is just not what I thought 'old' would be.    


Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 974

Hmmmm....

https://youtu.be/oGpFcHTxjZs

She was not exactly young, when this was made.

Girls just wanna have fun???! Even old ones? ;-)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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