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Who's buying this crap?


Josh · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,000
Daniel Winder wrote: Great store, I just picked some "2 pieces 1 pair of silicone bra pad push high breasts detachable bra fill insert cup swimsuit bikini nipple cover sticker patch9" only 95 cents. Thanks!

So many nouns...

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0
CD Transporter wrote: ... I DID spend $10 to try the knock-off version. So, I guess that I am one of those scary people buying the crap, ha.

...

Would I use it as the master point in an anchor? No. I wouldn't use a Camp Nano either.
I'd rather use a Camp Nano for a master point, or frankly ANY purpose, than any knock-off anything. Why the hell would you give any credence to a "knock-off" revolver?! Do you have some magical ability to know the metallurgy by smell? Are you the biner whisperer?

Especially a revolver given that the ID on those bearings isn't going to be especially thick.

Great, now I'll have to inspect the gear of all my potential climbing partners and grill them on where they bought the shit. 
Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
Guy Keesee wrote: Khoi.... thanks for information, yes out of loop for years. I stopped buying BD mostly because of the callous treatment of long time workers by “the corporation” they axed many old friends who were climbers from Ventura, people who put their hearts and soul into making the best gear possible.
Don’t get me wrong- outstanding Chinese products do exist and you pay for it.
The USA makes tons of crappy products and I’m not surprised that many recalls happened and still do. IMHO it’s best to buy climbing gear made by climbers- people who appreciate just what is at stake.

Looks like things are changing yet again.  


Black Diamond is doing a major overhaul of their carabiner lineup for 2020.  The majority of those biners are being made in Taiwan.

Metolius biners and a lot of Wild Country's current biner and cam lineup are also made in Taiwan.
Julian H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 5
Khoi wrote:

Looks like things are changing yet again.  


Black Diamond is doing a major overhaul of their carabiner lineup for 2020.  The majority of those biners are being made in Taiwan.

Metolius biners and a lot of Wild Country's current biner and cam lineup are also made in Taiwan.

Did you see any at the trade shoe? 

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
Julian H wrote:

Did you see any at the trade shoe? 

Yes, I saw, and handled, all of Black Diamond's upcoming biners at Outdoor Retailer.

Layne Zuelke · · Baton Rouge, LA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30

Bottom line is quality control is everything. You’ll find excellent products out of China and pathetic products from the US. And vice versa. There are likely many bomber biners and ascenders etc from China. The problem is that without regular testing and certification it’s impossible to know what is a quality product and what isn’t. All aluminum is not created equal. Given that the savings are not that great, I’ll stick to brands I trust. Especially in a game where failure can easily mean death. 

Philip Nesbitt · · Fairfield, CT · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 72
Cereal Killer wrote: If you guys get the $10 together and  buy one I'll cover pull testing. HD video and graphed results. You can have it shipped direct to the place I use if you don't trust me for forward it.

Shit like this makes me not want to use my real dmm revolver for fear someone will see it, be curious and go buy this... 

So is this happening ? 

NegativeK · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40
Philip Nesbitt wrote:

So is this happening ? 

"Don't expect it to get here from the slow boat for 6-8 weeks."

Plus wait time for pull testing.

Breeeeeeath.

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

What's the over-under on this thing surviving 22kn?

Cereal Killer · · Columbus · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

Update, surprisingly it's arrived already! Just showed up yesterday and I'm posting from B.F.E. Kentucky from my families vacation rental now and didn't get it forwarded to climbing innovations before I left. I'll send it once I return to reality on the 8th.

I will say; it does look pretty damn good, scarry good... I bet this one survives 22kn but that's not really saying much, anyone can get lucky and pump out a good part once in a while... It's consistency and QC that's the issue. Plus IP rights. 

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Did you order enough to measure open gate vs closed gate?

frank bonnevie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 86

just posting for the undates

Justin Butler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 17
Cereal Killer wrote: Update, surprisingly it's arrived already! Just showed up yesterday and I'm posting from B.F.E. Kentucky from my families vacation rental now and didn't get it forwarded to climbing innovations before I left. I'll send it once I return to reality on the 8th.

I will say; it does look pretty damn good, scarry good... I bet this one survives 22kn but that's not really saying much, anyone can get lucky and pump out a good part once in a while... It's consistency and QC that's the issue. Plus IP rights.

Any update on this Carabiners weight limit? I'm still very interested in this thread

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 138

It is not remotely expensive to make a carabiner that is strong enough

It is very expensive to make a carabiner to the finish and long term performance of a DMM carabiner.

I doubt the breaking strength is the issue as much as how they would hold up and perform over time.

NegativeK · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

I give it 50/50 that it pull tests to spec.

I give it 0.1/99.9 that a company that makes cheap knockoff products has enough at stake/cares enough to consistently make quality products.

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: It is not remotely expensive to make a carabiner that is strong enough
This is China we're talking about. The land of artificial eggs
Dante L · · Seattle · Joined May 2015 · Points: 15

I've done a lot of testing of China vs USA rigging parts, If you take in the 5 to 1 safety standards we use in the non climbing world most of the China parts are real close but not predicable

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Rigging as in construction? 

Dante L · · Seattle · Joined May 2015 · Points: 15
Trad Man wrote: Rigging as in construction? 

Rock and roll / circus

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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