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Katana Lace v. Miura Lace


Original Post
Joe Trabucco · · Boulder, co · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I wear size 10 us, and 41 in TC pro. My TC pro toebox is too fat to fit into thinner cracks/pockets. As a result, i'm in the market for a shoe that can be used on single/multi pitch trad, and can handle more aggressive climbing (thin cracks).

I found 2 solid options - Katana Lace 41.5 & Miura Lace 41.

I wanted to pick everyone's mind on your experience with the following:

1. Stretch
2. performance on more aggressive trad
3. comfort to withstand multi pitch trad
4. general experience/preference.

Thanks in advance!

Julian H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 5

Miura has a bigger toe box. Kataki is supposed to be good for thin cracks and good shoe in general

David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 206

For me it came down to fit, the Muira Lace is probably a better shoe for the moderate trad that I do, but the heel on the Katana lace fit me much better and I have been happy with the performance. They are too tight for all-day, but that is just a sizing issue. I have not had any real stretch on the Katana, but it has softened and conformed a little.

Malcolm Daly · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

Ha! You’ve just listed the three best selling shoes at the shop. They all work well as an all-round shoe and all can be used as an all day trad shoe depending on the fit. The Muiras have a pointier toe profile than the Katana so would likely drill into those thin cracks better than the Katanas. The Katanas have a bit of downturn. They’ll work a bit better on the edges but some people hate that for cracks. But, whatever, Get the one that fits the best.  

Here are two pieces of unsolicited advice: 

  1. You might want to try a softer shoe. There are a ton people out there who use the Mythos or Moccasyms as specialized thin crack machines. 
  2. If you really want all-day comfort (Light your flame throwers now) try wearing socks in your shoes. Full lace shoes like the TCP, Katana and Miuras all can accept a pair of thin socks just by opening them up a bit. If you can handle the scorn your friends will heap on you, a pair of thin socks will give you happy feet at the end of the day. And I can guarantee you that at the end of 6th pitch, when your toes are screaming, slipping on a pair of socks will make your day better.
Climb safe,
Mal
Zach Harrison · · Flagstaff · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,361

These are my exact shoe quiver.  I wear the same size in each, 41. The Katanas are softer flexing for better smeary feet and a bit wider and thusly don't bunch my feet up and are more comfortable.  I wear them on finger/thin hand cracks where you use edges and toe jams. They are comfortable when I take them off as few times during the day. The Miura are stiffer feeling and great for micro edging but hurt in cracks unless its hands and your whole foot goes in and you aren't torqueing that hard. I use them for single pitch stuff, and tips cracks where all the feet are edges. The Miuras don't seem to stretch very much if any, but the Katanas get a bit larger after 3 days of use yet don't lose much performance. I generally wear the Katanas for multipitch all around performance, comfort and versatility and the Muiras for redpointing, where precision is necessary.. .

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

Those are my two favorite shoes.

1. Stretch - pretty significant stretch and about the same for both
2. performance on more aggressive trad - depends on the kind of trad.  Katanas are more downturned and therefore edge more precisely, but are less comfortable to jam.  I personally use Katana's for edgy and hard single-pitch trad and sport climbing, and I love Miuras for multi-pitching.
3. comfort to withstand multi pitch trad - I can't do it in Katanas because of the downturn.  But absolutely with the Miuras.
4. general experience/preference. I own both and use them for different things.  They are my go-to shoes.  I have my Miuras sized so that my toes don't curl much and I can where them all day for multi-pitch, and I feel like they perform great.  But, it's all a question of foot shape as compared to the shoe last.

Joe Trabucco · · Boulder, co · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Great advice. Thank you!

Jon W · · Longmont Colorado · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 75

Katana is more symetrical than the miura,. Go with whichever fits best. They both perform well. Either is a step up from what you have.

Joe Trabucco · · Boulder, co · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
Jon W wrote: Katana is more symetrical than the miura,. Go with whichever fits best. They both perform well. Either is a step up from what you have.

Definitely 

IJMayer · · Anacortes, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 220

my 2cents: i have katana laces and miura laces in the same size and the only times I wear the miuras is when my katanas are being re-soled. katanas are so much more comfortable for me

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 130
Malcolm Daly wrote: ....If you really want all-day comfort (Light your flame throwers now) try wearing socks in your shoes. ....when your toes are screaming, slipping on a pair of socks will make your day better....
Mal

Calling shenanigans on that


Explain how taking up more volume in the shoe will make your feet feel better. That's be like putting thick old school mountaineering sock into a plug race boot...


To the OP's questions.
For purely THIN cracks (ones that don't like TC pros) I've found that a softer downturned pointy shoe works really well since a lot of the footwork is more like putting your foot into a pocket rather than true jamming. This experience excluded splitter IC style stuff.
Joe Trabucco · · Boulder, co · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

How is everyone sizing their katana?  I wear 41 tc pro and that’s toes flat right to the front but not curled.  

Katana is 41.5 for me, which is the same fit as my tc in size 41.  41 in katana is unbearable for more than 1 pitch.  

Sarah Meiser · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,645

Like Zach, I find the Muiras are no good for crack climbing - too painful. I like them for other trad like Eldo though.

Z Winters · · Mazama, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 220

Katanas really vary depending on how you size them. Sized very tight and they can be a great vertical edging shoe. Sized up and they're great for thin cracks and multipitch.

I've been doing TCs in 42 and Katanas in 43. Great combo, depending on whether edging, cracks, or comfort is priority.

Soft shoes are great for sandstone splitters, but otherwise the more you size up, the stiffer the shoe needs to be in order to hang onto some edging ability.

David Collins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

La Sportiva Katana Lace is my footwear gear.
The Katana Lace’s edging, smearing, and hooking abilities are great for slab and vertical face climbing. The laces and rubber are well-suited for crack climbing.
 

Fran M · · Germany · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0
Joe Trabucco wrote: How is everyone sizing their katana?  I wear 41 tc pro and that’s toes flat right to the front but not curled.  

Katana is 41.5 for me, which is the same fit as my tc in size 41.  41 in katana is unbearable for more than 1 pitch.  

I have Katanas in 41.5 and Mythos in 41. The latter being similar in shape to the TC pro.

Jon W · · Longmont Colorado · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 75

Size them as tight as you can and still be somewhat comfortable. They do stretch some and you don't want any unused volume in the shoe, If it is to tight, you won't be able to push hard on small edges or smears and you will end up overgripping everything. Find that middle ground.

Brian Carver · · Boulder, Co · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 35

I've had all of the above shoes other than TC Pros. I climb in Eldo twice a week.

The Muira lace up toes are actually up turned. Don't believe the pictures on the internet.
The Muira vs are too aggressive for multi-pitch
The Kitanas (I love them) are super soft on the inside and great at edging. However they lack sensitivity needed for Eldo. The sole is stiff resulting in my foot getting stuck in cracks
TC Pros toe box is actually no taller than most of the other shoes listed. Somewhere started that rumor a while ago. Go to the store and check their profile with other shoes. You'll see

Get the Katakis. Everything you need and more.

Joe Trabucco · · Boulder, co · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
Brian Carver wrote: I've had all of the above shoes other than TC Pros. I climb in Eldo twice a week.

The Muira lace up toes are actually up turned. Don't believe the pictures on the internet.
The Muira vs are too aggressive for multi-pitch
The Kitanas (I love them) are super soft on the inside and great at edging. However they lack sensitivity needed for Eldo. The sole is stiff resulting in my foot getting stuck in cracks
TC Pros toe box is actually no taller than most of the other shoes listed. Somewhere started that rumor a while ago. Go to the store and check their profile with other shoes. You'll see

Get the Katakis. Everything you need and more.

Interesting.  Reviews say the kataki is a supercharged katana but not as comfortable.  


How does the Miura Lace do in thin stuff and eldo type climbing?
Brian Carver · · Boulder, Co · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 35
Joe Trabucco wrote:

Interesting.  Reviews say the kataki is a supercharged katana but not as comfortable.  


How does the Miura Lace do in thin stuff and eldo type climbing?

Not near as good as the Kataki. The upturned toe is a deal breaker for me, plus I think you'll find the toe is very similar to the TC's.  I still find them useful for <=5.9 multi days though.

Myself and a lot of my partners like the Kataki because although downturned the toe box is wide so your toes lay flat on the curve. The katakis and katanas both have that little rubber talon at the tip of the toes that is so clutch on thin eldo cracks. 
Joe Trabucco · · Boulder, co · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
Brian Carver wrote:

Not near as good as the Kataki. The upturned toe is a deal breaker for me, plus I think you'll find the toe is very similar to the TC's.  I still find them useful for <=5.9 multi days though.

Myself and a lot of my partners like the Kataki because although downturned the toe box is wide so your toes lay flat on the curve. The katakis and katanas both have that little rubber talon at the tip of the toes that is so clutch on thin eldo cracks. 

Ya buddy.  Solid advice.  I’ll go try on the kataki.  Katanas felt solid but now I’m curious about their supercharged version...


Do they stretch much?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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