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Climbing Shoes for Roman feet

Original Post
Alex Holmann · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 21

I have been looking all over for a pair of climbing shoes that fit my feet and have had pretty much no luck. I believe I have what is called a Roman's foot (My first three toes are all basically the same length). Additionally, my foot and heel are narrow and low volume. I have tried most of La Sportiva's line as well as some Scarpa and 5.10 models and have noticed that my big toe is pretty much always flat while my middle toe is basically bent all the way over. Up until now I have gone with shoes that are slightly bigger than ideal so that none of my toes are curled too much but have felt like I have been losing some performance while doing so. I was hoping to find a shoe that fits better so I can get some more performance out of it.

TL;DR: Does anyone know of any performance climbing shoes that are narrow but do not have a pointy toe box?

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Tenaya

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212

Five Ten Anasazis.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

If I recall, sandals worked well for most romans. 

J W H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

TIL that there are different kinds of toe patterns around the world:

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
J W H wrote: TIL that there are different kinds of toe patterns around the world:

I'm African bitches. This is absolute news to me. 

Jeffrey K · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Ted Pinson wrote: Five Ten Anasazis.

Also Roman foot. The only 5.10s that fit me are the Anasazis but by golly do they fit like a dream. Specifically new Pinks and Pros. Size at street shoe.

Alex Holmann · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 21
Jeffrey K wrote:

Also Roman foot. The only 5.10s that fit me are the Anasazis but by golly do they fit like a dream. Specifically new Pinks and Pros. Size at street shoe.

Are the men's Anasazi Pros already pretty narrow or would the women's likely be a better bet?

Jack Quarless · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

Holy shit I am Asian. Have you tried cutting some toes down? How about toughening up? Both valid questions. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212
J W H wrote: TIL that there are different kinds of toe patterns around the world:

Interesting.  I guess I’m actually a cross between Roman and Celtic.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212
Alex Holmann wrote:

Are the men's Anasazi Pros already pretty narrow or would the women's likely be a better bet?

The shoe is overall on the narrow side.  The VCS tends to have a higher volume heel whereas the Pink has a pretty narrow heel.

Jeffrey K · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Alex Holmann wrote:

Are the men's Anasazi Pros already pretty narrow or would the women's likely be a better bet?

They are exactly the same fit as the Pinks. So fairly narrow through the midfoot and wider at the toebox. On sale at Addidas right now, free 2 day and returns. I really love them.

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 5

African here also, like Tenaya right now, although I tried on katana laces and really liked how they felt

Kyle Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Roman foot here also (1st 3 toes of the same length also). I had the 5.10 Anasazis, and maybe it was just the sizing, although it was just a 1/2 size below my street size...but they were terribly uncomfortable. After trying on all the climbing shoes I could find, the la Sportiva Otakis inexplicably were the best (I got theme 2 sizes smaller than my street shoe size). A few months later, I'm still liking them

John Larson · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0
Kyle Adams wrote: Roman foot here also (1st 3 toes of the same length also). I had the 5.10 Anasazis, and maybe it was just the sizing, although it was just a 1/2 size below my street size...but they were terribly uncomfortable. After trying on all the climbing shoes I could find, the la Sportiva Otakis inexplicably were the best (I got theme 2 sizes smaller than my street shoe size). A few months later, I'm still liking them

I learned I have Roman toes today... Interesting because I climb in ansazis, street size, and recently tried otakis while I was getting em resoled. Otakis had some nice added aggressiveness and I also went 2cm below my Mondo size l. I felt it, but w the Velcro I let em breath between pitches and liked the downturn, but it was a tradeoff. Back in the ansazis today post resole and man they felt nice, for just right. Added detail to consider, I also have hammer toes, which can cause their own hotspots. But stretch w a shoe horn/ marble setup to break it in, both Ive found have been good shoes so give em a shot and see what works?

Mongoclimb · · Seattle, WA · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0
David Collins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

Rock climbing shoes are the interface between you and the rock, and the wrong type of shoe or fit can hold you back. When choosing climbing shoes, there are three primary considerations: Climbing shoe type, Climbing shoe features, Climbing shoe fit. I personally follow many blogs on the given topic, but I think you might like having a read on ​https://perfectshoesforyou.com/best-tennis-shoes-for-flat-feet-and-plantar-fasciitis/​​​ if you ever have the time to spare. Climbing shoes fit differently than any other type of shoes you own. You want them to support your foot, allow lots of sensitivity and stick to surfaces without skidding off.

Chris Jones · · Winston-Salem · Joined May 2018 · Points: 90
La Sportiva Solutions fit my roman foot so nicely.  I have a .5 sized up pair for the gym and a tighter pair that i save for outside.  They are both super comfortable.  I am in love.

Others I have tried which are no where near as comfortable.  Butora Acros, Testarosas, TC Pros.  Tarantulace's fit me well but are very low performance.  

My foot for reference:
 
Olav Grøttveit · · Bergen, Hordaland · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 5

Tried the Scarpa Maestro ? It did not fit me because there was to much empty space next to the big toe. (norwegian / egyptian foot)

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 212
Chris Jones wrote: La Sportiva Solutions fit my roman foot so nicely.  I have a .5 sized up pair for the gym and a tighter pair that i save for outside.  They are both super comfortable.  I am in love.

Others I have tried which are no where near as comfortable.  Butora Acros, Testarosas, TC Pros.  Tarantulace's fit me well but are very low performance.  

My foot for reference:
 

Solutions actually worked really well for me too, although I had to size VERY aggressively (3 sizes down from street), as the heel/ankle is very wide/high volume, but they’re soft enough to get away with doing this.  Only problem was the pointy toebox makes my toes fold over on top of each other, so not great sensitivity.  For me, Teams are a much better fit for aggressive shoes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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