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Glacier travel and more in an ice axe

Original Post
GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Hey folks
I got a Petzl gully for some glacier travel and stuff like that and my partner is about to get an ice axe for the same kind of stuff but since she will use it way less.. I was wondering if I should get an different kind/model of axe that would work for glacier travel but also open up other/more options and two ice axe options?
What do y’all think?  Thanks 

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

whatever is lightest. grams count. 

Gavin W · · Langley, BC · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 181

Unless you have plans to do routes that require a Gully or something comparable, it's really not a great ice axe for glacier travel. You'd be better off with something light the Petzl Glacier or Glacier Literide, or even the Ride if you wanna go ultralight. I have a pair of Gullies, but really only use them for climbing. For glacier travel I use a BD Raven and my wife uses a Grivel G1. More comfortable in the hand when self-arresting, and the curve on the pick will do a better job of self-arresting as well.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

the gully looks way too short for moderate and easy mountaineering...   60cm is a minimum for me and I finally retired my  60cm Chouinard for a Much Lighter 70cm Raven Pro.  

Ty Gilroy · · Ontario, CA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5

Whatever you do dont go to the bugs...

GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0
Ty Gilroy wrote: Whatever you do dont go to the bugs...

see you there in August?

Ty Gilroy · · Ontario, CA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5
GDodds dodds wrote:

see you there in August?

Im going in July

chris magness · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590

The traditional mountain axe is dead.

You're on track with what you've purchased, the Petzl Sumtec and BD Venom are also great hybrid tools, albeit heavier than what you already have.

Long shafted mountain axes suck in steep terrain.  And they suck in low angled terrain too... where a trekking pole will help keep you comfy and upright.  Of course, you need something to arrest a fall in addition to the pole, like an awesome, lightweight, short-shafted hybrid tool that's going to perform on steeper stuff too (you'd put the pole away at that point).

I carry a 50 cm Venom hammer to wail pickets, or an adze if I anticipate chopping; and a BD Whippet (carbon fiber/ 2 stage).  Great combo, I holster the Venom on low angle terrain and go solely with the Whippet.

Edit: if you have to choose between a hammer and an adze, carry an adze.  You can hammer pickets with an adze.. not quite as effective as a hammer and ultimately somewhat destructive to the tool.  But that isn't too much of consideration, after all, as tools are meant to be used.  

Jason4Too · · Bellingham, Washington · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I bought a Petzl Ride first as a short split-mo ax and have had it out on a really fun ski trip.  I ended up carrying a first gen BD Venom on that trip too since I wanted a hammer for pickets and pitons in case we got adventurous.  I just ordered a Gully Hammer to pair with my Ride and will likely order a Gully Adze in the near future and pass my Ride on to my wife or just stick with the Ride/Gully combo.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 10

Agree with Chris above- don’t waste time or money on a std old school glacier axe.  
For example, A pair of Sumtecs and a BD whippet can be combined to take you anywhere. — not necessarily all at same time (Unless you climb with Brena) - if and until you want to go to something more technical 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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