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Tying in without a harness?


Original Post
M Jarmland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

Way back in the day when climbers didn’t have harnesses or even swami belts but rather tied in directly, rope around the waist.. Did they just use a bowline or was there a better way? Several laps around the waist and then a bowline?

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

“Bowline on a Coil”.

I have actually done it!

Backstory: drove out to Crow Hill with my kids, realized I had forgotten my harness.

Brian ~+~+~+ · · Oceanside · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Rope-Harness 

Looks not too pleasing to wear. 
Kevinmurray · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

Bowline on a coil was the way I learned how to tie in when i started climbing in the late 60's.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,906
mbk wrote: “Bowline on a Coil”.

BTDT

M Jarmland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

Thank you! Bowline on a coil is what I was looking for.

i shore · · London · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
000M Jarmland wrote: Way back in the day when climbers didn’t have harnesses or even swami belts but rather tied in directly, rope around the waist.. Did they just use a bowline or was there a better way? Several laps around the waist and then a bowline?

I think in the UK until after the second world war almost everyone would have used a simple bowline to tie round the waist, Just looking at a booklet: Nylon rope and Climbing Safety by Tarbuck (1961?). Tarbuck was a leader in promoting safer (waist) belaying. In it he mentions the advantages of using a hemp waistband (in the manner of the USA swami belt) but also describes the use of a simple waist tie (he promotes his Tarbuck friction knot which was supposed to absorb shock). In the 1960s I learnt to climb with our county education committee by bottom roping on sandstone outcrops using a direct bowline waist tie and waist belay with polypropylene rope. In fact I still do so on my rare visits there (now use nylon kernmantle rope). I think, though not certain, that the British Mountaineering Council may still recommend a simple waist tie (fig 8 ?) for use in situations where a confidence rope is needed and no harnesses are carried.

FWIW you can probably google the above booklet to see all the scanned pages.

Edit: For accuracy just googled the UK Mountain Leader course recommended way for protecting walkers on short, steep ground. Briefly the leader at the top is attached to rope to anchor using overhand on bight round waist. The follower(s) attaches by using an adjustable waist loop (half fig8 tightens against stopper knot in a long tail round rope on leader side of 8 : follower adjusts loop by altering position of 8). A simple method that I have no experience of and not really relevant to this thread.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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