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Heavy corrosion on plated steel hardware in "semi-arid" climates


michalm · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 207

Sorry John. I think we both agree on the issue.

BJ Sbarra · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 667
Greg Barnes wrote:Also, just a suggestion, if you know any dirtbag developers, you might consider helping them out with buying good quality stainless bolts!

This is the heart of the problem. Some places have already come up with ways to help fund the cost of development, but if first ascentionists are paying for hardware out-of-pocket, they can only do the best they can. Stainless adds up quick when you are looking at a new crag with 30-50 potential routes to develop. 

Plus, right now it's cheaper for them to put the PS hardware in first and then replace it in 10-20 years with SS they get from somewhere like the ASCA. Not saying that's a good solution, but just how it is given the current model of route development in the US.

Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 839
BJ Sbarra wrote:

..... if first ascentionists are paying for hardware out-of-pocket, they can only do the best they can. Stainless adds up quick when you are looking at a new crag with 30-50 potential routes to develop. 

Plus, right now it's cheaper for them to put the PS hardware in first and then replace it in 10-20 years with SS they get from somewhere like the ASCA. Not saying that's a good solution, but just how it is given the current model of route development in the US.

I keep hearing the status quo rationalization. I don't think repeating it advances our cause. I think the unified message whenever this topic comes up should be "Do not put in new routes if you are not willing to do it properly." The climbing community has been at this whole bolting thing for a few decades and have figured out a few things along the way. Those members of the community that don't choose to follow generally agreed upon best practice should a least face a little internet scorn. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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