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Climbing at Paradise forks

Andrew McQ · · Prescott, AZ · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

While a significant number of climbers visit the area to TR, there are still climbers that prefer to lead. Rap stations or anchor bolts on the classics probably won't limit the erosion from the topropers, but it could help reduce it from those who lead. I like to believe that every little bit helps, and the Forks is certainly worth the time and effort to protect it for as long as possible.

The removal bolt is a great idea, but without knowledge of the locations of the holes, they're not very helpful. A "map" or list documenting the location of these holes could keep everyone happy and encourage those who want to personally reduce their impact, while also keeping the tourists/hikers from noticing any eyesores. I don't own any RBs, but knowing where I could place them would make them a worthy investment for me.

Richard Fernandez · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 755

Great to see some support for sensible solutions to a never-ending problem.

Wylie · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 46

A fortune teller told me that only once the prow tree uproots and slays several climbers will a solution be determined. The gods of ethics demand an offering of stoner bro.  

HAILITA BABY · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Mike wrote:

Generally speaking, yes it is. It's not always as comfortable of a stance as sitting on the rim with your feet dangling over the edge, but it's OK enough, and you can help reduce the erosion in the area. There are probably exceptions, but this is mostly the case.

Two of are will mostly do the leading with the other two following. We will probably swap routes so setting up TR is going to be necessary for our two parties. I know we will most likely sling a with a long static line, but to avoid the rope from swinging/moving and causing more erosion, I plan to leave a cam up top to weigh the TR rope and have the static line as a back up (something that was suggested on the paradise fork page). Is that still the common practice done here?

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

That is commonly done and a great practice at the Forks.  A very easy way to not weight trees.  Quick and easy, no bolts needed.  Thanks for checking and being careful!  Much appreciated.

Darren Mabe · · Parks, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,975
Eric D wrote: That is commonly done and a great practice at the Forks.  A very easy way to not weight trees.  Quick and easy, no bolts needed.  Thanks for checking and being careful!  Much appreciated.

That's not what I have seen, what is more common is that trees are used as convenience anchors whether there are trad placements available or not. 

Darren Mabe · · Parks, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,975

Bolts on the rim at the Forks/Volunteer/Overlook is Flagstaff's elephant in the room.

Richard Fernandez · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 755
(some) old skool flag clymberz be like
Richard Fernandez · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 755
aaaaand a little bit of this...
Richard Fernandez · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 755
...finish it off with a butt-load of this.
Oliver Clothesoff · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

where’s the topo of all the removable bolt holes you drilled darren on top of the paradise forks crag and volunteer? enough talk. show. 

Darren Mabe · · Parks, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,975
Oliver Clothesoff wrote: where’s the topo of all the removable bolt holes you drilled darren on top of the paradise forks crag and volunteer? enough talk. show. 

Why do you want to know Tam?

Richard Fernandez · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 755
These two I used with a directional bolt to climb Drop The Hammer, awesome route by Trevor Bowman.
Darren Mabe · · Parks, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,975
Darren Mabe wrote:

...The usual suspects of course, Prow/Mutiny/SailAway area, Davidson dihedral, Raindance, Paradise Lost, Aqualung, etc. 


To answer your question, Tam, they are where I said they are. But for interested parties that will actually find them useful, the ones at VoCan are specified in my route descriptions. Some additional hangerless bolts and rabbit holes (RB holes) above UV Ammunition, Drop Hammer, Tower Station, and Canary. One bolt above Up and Cwming (already was chopped) and a couple holes on top of Studio 54 too. To name a few. 

Oliver Clothesoff · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0
Darren Mabe wrote:

Why do you want to know Tam?

Darren I’m guess my question above wasn’t clear....

Please post a topo of the RBs holes you have drilled at the forks and at volunteer canyon for everybody to use. Thanks! I will look for the topo here. 

Darren Mabe · · Parks, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,975
Oliver Clothesoff wrote:

Darren I’m guess my question above wasn’t clear....

Please post a topo of the RBs holes you have drilled at the forks and at volunteer canyon for everybody to use. Thanks! I will look for the topo here. 

Why would I need to do that, Tam? I have learned my lesson this year to share less. Odd, coming from you, who is notorious for not sharing info.

I drilled these holes at the Forks and VoCan for my friends and I to use; to avoid damaging trees. If others happen to own RBs and discover these placements, they are obviously more than welcome to use them too. Id be happy to mark the holes to make them easier to spot, with a bolt and hanger. 

Oliver Clothesoff · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0
Darren Mabe wrote:

Why would I need to do that, Tam? I have learned my lesson this year to share less. Odd, coming from you, who is notorious for not sharing info.

I drilled these holes at the Forks and VoCan for my friends and I to use; to avoid damaging trees. If others happen to own RBs and discover these placements, they are obviously more than welcome to use them too. Id be happy to mark the holes to make them easier to spot, with a bolt and hanger. 

There is obviously no “need” to do anything- my point exactly. 

 ;) enjoy your summer! 

Ivan Cross · · Flagstaff · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 132

Anything beyond the rim of the canyon is Designated Wilderness area (Sycamore Canyon Wilderness), which means anything motorized is banned. Please respect those rules.

Darren Mabe · · Parks, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,975
Ivan Cross wrote: Anything beyond the rim of the canyon is Designated Wilderness area (Sycamore Canyon Wilderness), which means anything motorized is banned. Please respect those rules.

Thanks Josh that is correct! Will you and Tam be joining us at the NACC meeting next week?

Richard Fernandez · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 755
Ivan Cross wrote: Anything beyond the rim of the canyon is Designated Wilderness area (Sycamore Canyon Wilderness), which means anything motorized is banned. Please respect those rules.

Ivan, please respect these rules also.

(U.S. Forest Service Regulations)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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