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Climbing at Paradise forks


Original Post
Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Yes I know "yuurrrr gonna die"

I read through the page on climbing at the forks, but all the TRing conversations stopped around 2012. Has there been any updates on the proper way of climbing there? I hope to go there end of this month with a party of 4. Two of are will mostly do the leading with the other two following. We will probably swap routes so setting up TR is going to be necessary for our two parties. I know we will most likely sling a with a long static line, but to avoid the rope from swinging/moving and causing more erosion, I plan to leave a cam up top to weigh the TR rope and have the static line as a back up (something that was suggested on the paradise fork page). Is that still the common practice done here?

Also we dont have a guide book for the area, will MP be good enough to climb here if we go thursday-sunday?

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

It's been a couple of years since I've personally been there, but all (or at least most) routes can be set up as a TR just below the rim. You don't need to anchor off of the trees. Also I have always found the info on MP.com to be more than adequate, but take that with a grain of salt because I am already familiar with the area, thus not a first-timer. HTH!

Greg Opland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 247
Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851
Mike wrote: It's been a couple of years since I've personally been there, but all (or at least most) routes can be set up as a TR just below the rim. You don't need to anchor off of the trees. Also I have always found the info on MP.com to be more than adequate, but take that with a grain of salt because I am already familiar with the area, thus not a first-timer. HTH!

Thanks! To clarify, it's easy to build a 3 point anchor below the rim for the other climbers?

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615
Jan Tarculas wrote:

Thanks! To clarify, it's easy to build a 3 point anchor below the rim for the other climbers?

Generally speaking, yes it is. It's not always as comfortable of a stance as sitting on the rim with your feet dangling over the edge, but it's OK enough, and you can help reduce the erosion in the area. There are probably exceptions, but this is mostly the case.

Tyler Mattix · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 5

Are the roads to PF open yet? 

tradderall ***** · · Flagstaff, AZ. · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 91

Roads are open. Big potholes, beware! You cant really generalize about how to set up anchors for tr or top belay. You just need to have some skills, some common sense and use both. Dont drop yourself or your partner, dont knock rocks down on yourselves or others. I dont think of the Forks as a lead and switch topropes kind of place. It's just not that kind of crag. The Waterfall is more conducive to that, everything has an anchor.

MarcYY · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 20

Protect trees with a wrap if you are going to rappel or use them as anchors. Please don't use the dying Prow tree for an anchor, plenty of trees and large boulders to wrap behind it.  Thanks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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