What are your Favorite Lesser Known Climbing Areas?

Penitente Cayon in Colorado. A lot of people seem to know about it but no one goes there. I've only ever seen at most 3 other climbing parties there, even in peak season

Jason Giblin wrote: Penitente Cayon in Colorado. A lot of people seem to know about it but no one goes there. I've only ever seen at most 3 other climbing parties there, even in peak season

Last time I was down there it was fairly crowded. Probably 50 total climbers in the whole canyon. Great if you are willing to climb whatever, not so much for "classics".

Parker Wrozek wrote:

Last time I was down there it was fairly crowded. Probably 50 total climbers in the whole canyon. Great if you are willing to climb whatever, not so much for "classics".

My vote is for Indy Pass. Bouldering, Trad, sport, easy to hard approaches. Awesome camping (though tough to get sometimes). 30 degrees cooler then Denver. 

Could be that my definition of "peak season" is different then others. I think the best weather for Penitente is 30s-40s and climbing in the sun. Once it gets too hot there (probably when most other climbs go there) the friction just isn't there for the harder climbs. I wouldn't even try any of the mid-12 and up climbs if it was hotter than 50.

That is fair. It was October last I was down there. Maybe in the 60's temp wise.

don't be the tool who blabs about a super nice secluded spot that's completely over run and trashed now.

what’s the blog? maybe i could put together something about the alpine routes of agiocochook or bouldering in seneca village. 

Mark Dalen wrote:

Totally unclimbed ...

Is that the Palisades in NJ? I think they're illegal to climb

Forrset Pials wrote:

Is that the Palisades in NJ? I think they're illegal to climb

Colorado ...

All the rock in Nevada that isn't red rock.

master gumby wrote: We all know that the real climbers and "locals" in so cal live in San Diego and climb at the Uber secret south woodson and tahquitz. So the point above about that chosspile pile of a rock posted is irrelevant.

EDIT: OP  you should write your story about south woodson it's locals only and had the best rock in the country

Looks like a great fit! I'll PM you.

bruno-cx wrote:

It's already been added to MP just a matter of time before this hype machine fucks it all up for us.  On the plus side maybe NMCRAG can sue REI for destruction of public lands and bringing dub step bros from Colorado to NM

I'm not going to include Roy (though it looks great), too much touchiness around it already in this thread. Enjoy your climbing out there.

petzl logic wrote: what’s the blog? maybe i could put together something about the alpine routes of agiocochook or bouldering in seneca village. 

DMing you now!

Libidozone in NM. 800 boulder problems to V11.
You'll know it if you find it.

Tim Lutz wrote:

U don't New Biners huh?  Sad.

I plead ignorance. I have no idea what that means.

But hey, good write up about Roy in Climbing Magazine!

Its not unknown by any means, but Jackson Falls in So Ill is one of my favorite places. There are so many 4 and 5 star 12a climbs that you can hop from classic to classic all day. On the busiest days I've seen it, we've had whole walls to ourselves. If you enjoy slab, crimps, and pockets, this is the place for you. it's also a good drive from any major cities, which I think prevents people from overcrowding the place. Also, the climbing is spread out along the cliffline pretty nicely, so you're not bumping into other people on your project. Its got some really unique routes and technical masterpieces. For those who are used to the Red, the New, and the Obed, this bit of central/eastern climbing gives a fresh change of pace. 

bruno-cx wrote:

Nice Troll Buddy Boy.  

Believe what you want Bruno Boy.

I heard about a place called Patagonia in this article.  Apparently you don't need to be a pro to go there.

https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/want-to-climb-in-patagonia-but-feel-intimidated?cm_mmc=sm_fb_76514-_-content-_-journal-_-climb_patagonia&fbclid=IwAR2EGi1KMm8DxY8HIVdyAm9VkOvuAGRq6gMzGgrTw0bhnEXOlmFO6gpZHTA

PM'd per your OP.

Listen not to the armchair haters. 

Todd the Tangler wrote: PM'd per your OP.

Listen not to the armchair haters. 

@Todd, Rock on, man! I don't get PMs for some reason... Can you email me at gerry [dot] aaron [at] gmail.