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River wall (Lyons)


Original Post
EeT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

So the lady and I took the dogs for a walk along the Longmont reservoir.. there were two dudes who to me at the time looked like they were rebolting or updating anchors around “redneck hero”... on our way back to the car I noticed that it looked like they were bolting a new route and while cleaning it I watch multiple holds being chipped..... this is more a question of if it is normal to chip/manufacture hold when bolting a new route..

Dan Cooksey · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

Grabbing my popcorn.  

Alan Coon · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 175

Oh my fuck... 

Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 125
Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86

How else do you make a new gym with that sweet juggy 5.9 warm up?

trailridge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 20

Redneck hero was rebolted recently and the 5th or 6th bolt is not good. If that bolt failed it would be a big fall. I hope they are taking care of the bad bolt(s). 

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 115

If they were developing a new route, are you certain that they were chipping, and not just cleaning off the loose choss?  Cleaning, often times aggressive cleaning, is not just just accepted, but very often a necessary part of putting up a new sport route, as I am certain you already know. 

EeT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

You could be correct on the aggressive cleaning?? That’s why I am asking.... It looked like they could have updated those bad bolts one of them was working in that area. The reason I assumed it was a new route was all the brushing. And a hammer (no chisels) was used on the holds but maybe it was aggressive cleaning. The stuff that would be pulled off anyway.... it was interesting to watch and was just wondering if that was common in route development.. thanks

Brandon Fields · · Boulder · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5
EeT wrote: You could be correct on the aggressive cleaning?? That’s why I am asking.... It looked like they could have updated those bad bolts one of them was working in that area. The reason I assumed it was a new route was all the brushing. And a hammer (no chisels) was used on the holds but maybe it was aggressive cleaning. The stuff that would be pulled off anyway.... it was interesting to watch and was just wondering if that was common in route development.. thanks

It's more than common, it's 90% of route development. If you didn't see chisels or drills being put to blank sections of rock, i'd bet the bank they were simply cleaning. That rock is too hard to do any meaningful hold manufacturing with just a hammer. During route development, every section of rock that will be touched by a climber should be hit with a hammer at least once. You can slap and knock on rock with your hands all you like, but until you smack that block with a hammer, you can't really know if it's truly solid or not.

EeT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

Thank you!! All of that makes sense to me. You learn something new everyday. That was the first time I had the chance to see some bolting and developing done(other then you tube). And it was very interesting. I knew MP wouldn’t let me down. 

ANGUS WIESSNER · · Denver Colorad · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,155

That seems really weird as redneck hero was fixed up last season with some new bolts.

Maybe they were replaceing the anchor on redneck can’t imagine they put up a new route between redneck and monkey man as that face looks 5.15 hard.

Big big gunky man needs a manicure but I don’t think anyone ever does it do to the safety rating and old bolt. Would be a cool retro with permission. People might actually climb it and it would add another classic to the cliff I bet.

If there is a new route and someone has seen it I’d love to hear where exactly on the wall it is and the grade. Cheers Angus 

EeT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

They were on redneck. And brushing just to the left of redneck. To me it looked like you started redneck and go left. Possible variation?? I have only climbed there once and have passed/ watched many times. I could very well be wrong. But it looked like a new route to me. 

Eliot Augusto · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

Sounds like aggressive cleaning. There are often times weak rock that will hold on for a year or 2 of heavy climbing, then explode in someones face. It is wise to take a hammer and crowbar with you while cleaning a route.

A while back I was putting up a multipitch and I rapped in from the top with some tools to remove a hold from the middle of the climb. We would always anchor right next to the hold and I didn't want anyone to pull it off onto someone years in the future. So at 4am on a Wednesday I made it 2 swings in when the 40lb hold turned into an 800lb nightmare, which broke the left side of the "bomber" crack we built our anchors in. Said nightmare landed right where the 2nd pitch belay stands, bounced and landed right where the 1st pitch belay is and exploded into a hundred different pieces showering where people on the ground would have stood for the other popular routes. A couple of years from now I'll add it to MP, after a few freeze/thaw cycles.

Granted, you probably won't encounter that at the res...but you never know where rock decides it will break off.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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