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Who has the best technique?


Ben ZH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 145
Nate Doyle wrote: Please backup your claim with videos, if possible. Bonus points for an in-depth breakdown/explanation of why you've chosen said climber/video.

Ron Kauk

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 5

I'm going to throw Jain Kim into the conversation, I'd guess the most efficient climber. She seems to exert almost no effort until an instant before she falls. 

Jason Giblin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 15
youtube.com/watch?v=tuPrsuN…

Great video of Ondra and Sharma side by side on La Dura Dura. For me when I watch this, it looks like Ondra is climbing much more efficiently, much quicker than sharma and with less foot moves.
Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0
Jaren Watson wrote:

He’s also a total freaking stud in addition to climbing at the highest levels.

What do you mean?

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,450
Rob warden The space lizard wrote:

What do you mean?

He’s cool.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 436
Nate Doyle wrote:

What would happen if Margo trained like Adam? 

Then she would climb as well as Adam.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

An abstact spherical house in vacuum.

Ben Molloy · · Keene, NY · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0
Jason Giblin wrote: Adam Ondra without a doubt. The simple fact is, he is not the strongest climber in the world, yet he is by far the best in every discipline of rock climbing because of his outstanding technique. 
Adam Ondra is not even close to being the best crack climber in the world, nor is he the best boulderer in the world by any means.
Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 436
Ben Molloy wrote: Adam Ondra is not even close to being the best crack climber in the world, nor is he the best boulderer in the world by any means.

I'm just quoting this to reiterate my six-pack wager that Ondra will flash Cobra Crack.

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,450
Ben Molloy wrote: Adam Ondra is not even close to being the best crack climber in the world, nor is he the best boulderer in the world by any means.

When Michael Jordan shifted his focus from basketball to baseball, he was still the best basketball player in the world.

While I wouldn’t argue Ondra is the best boulderer in the world, I think that’s largely because he doesn’t boulder very much.

How many V16s does it take to be equal to the best? I’m not counting Nalle’s V17 because I suspect it will be downgraded by the next person to send it who uses his latest beta.
Mark Vigil · · Boring, OR · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

David Graham climbed 5.14 within a year of starting to climb.  His arms look like literal noodles and he has more V14 or harder FAs than any other climber (might not be true any more but he does a ton to push grade)  He once said you could be really out of shape and climb biographia with good technique, I dont think anyone else could make that claim.  He gave Ondra the beta to flash Jade as well.  

Tim Lutz · · Colo-Rado Springs · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5
Jason Giblin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 15
Ben Molloy wrote: Adam Ondra is not even close to being the best crack climber in the world, nor is he the best boulderer in the world by any means.

You could certainly make an argument for both. Ignoring hypotheticals, his very limited crack resume (mostly of onsights) is pretty impressive. Hazel Findlay is considered one of the best crack climbers in the world, and in a recent insta post she commented "He's a lot better technically" in reference to Ondra onsighting her project (Conception). And for bouldering the argument is even stronger. Flashing Jade, in my opinion, is one of the greatest bouldering accomplishments of our generation. None of the boulderers who are considered the best in the world (Nalle, DWoods, Graham) even got close to flashing that. Also I read somewhere that Ondra did Gioia in half the amount of sessions that Nalle did.

Robert S · · Driftwood, TX · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 255

It must be raining in a lot of places tonight.

Paul Hutton · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

The pros all laugh at us when they're all out there at the crag together, and FAing walls that we'll never approach, with their free gear from top brands, not stressing about the office job that some of you have to rush back to.

"you looked a little shaky on that 5.12+ pitch with the X-rated run-out on this unclimbed face in this remote mountain range braj!"
"yea, I suppose so dude haha! But everyone on mountain Project says I have a better resumé and technique than you, but I only overheard that from some gym rats at the trailhead that had an REI starter kit haha!"
"whatever dude ha! We really need to pick up the pace now. The weather is showing signs of a storm, and you know what they say about the weather around here being similar to that of Patagonia! Whaddya say I lead a simulblock to hopefully find a ledge that is somewhat decent enough for a hasty bivvy on this unclimbed big wall?!"
"Welp, I suppose we have no other choice! Besides our welfare, this'll be a great addition to our slideshow presentation for black diamond, Patagonia, and Arcterix! But bottom line is, even if you lead us through 12+ terrain with an X-rated run-out onsight, MP with their creative, silly screen names still say I'm better than youuuuu haha!"

Nate Doyle · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 39
Paul Hutton wrote: The pros all laugh at us when they're all out there at the crag together, and FAing walls that we'll never approach, with their free gear from top brands, not stressing about the office job that some of you have to rush back to.

"you looked a little shaky on that 5.12+ pitch with the X-rated run-out on this unclimbed face in this remote mountain range braj!"
"yea, I suppose so dude haha! But everyone on mountain Project says I have a better resumé and technique than you, but I only overheard that from some gym rats at the trailhead that had an REI starter kit haha!"
"whatever dude ha! We really need to pick up the pace now. The weather is showing signs of a storm, and you know what they say about the weather around here being similar to that of Patagonia! Whaddya say I lead a simulblock to hopefully find a ledge that is somewhat decent enough for a hasty bivvy on this unclimbed big wall?!"
"Welp, I suppose we have no other choice! Besides our welfare, this'll be a great addition to our slideshow presentation for black diamond, Patagonia, and Arcterix! But bottom line is, even if you lead us through 12+ terrain with an X-rated run-out onsight, MP with their creative, silly screen names still say I'm better than youuuuu haha!"

I see and could possibly even agree with your imaginary point but, that story was lame. 

Nate Doyle · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 39

Oh, and it's breath of fresh air to see the younger generations bringing back the mom jokes. Those never get old.

Try Cam · · Ft. Wayne, IN · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0
Nate Doyle wrote:  Those never get old.

Neither does your mom.

Ben Molloy · · Keene, NY · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

While he might’ve been the best boulderer at one point, he’s getting passed up by people who are pushing the grade currently like Nalle, Daniel Woods, and young climbers like Shawn Raboutou. While I’m not saying they have accomplished greater things, I’m saying that if I’m gonna consider him the best boulderer in the world he needs to be bouldering the hardest in the world. And I’m not sure if you can say that he’s the best crack climber in the world when accomplishments like Recovery Drink, Meltdown, Century Crack etc all IMO outshine the V-whatever crack crux  of Silence

Jason Giblin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 15
Ben Molloy wrote: While he might’ve been the best boulderer at one point, he’s getting passed up by people who are pushing the grade currently like Nalle, Daniel Woods, and young climbers like Shawn Raboutou. While I’m not saying they have accomplished greater things, I’m saying that if I’m gonna consider him the best boulderer in the world he needs to be bouldering the hardest in the world. And I’m not sure if you can say that he’s the best crack climber in the world when accomplishments like Recovery Drink, Meltdown, Century Crack etc all IMO outshine the V-whatever crack Cruz of Silence

That is a fair point. I mentioned ignoring hypotheticals because it's easy to guess that Ondra would make quick work of the hardest crack climbs like the ones you mentioned, as well as hard boulder problems like Burden of Dreams, but until he tries them it's best to compare his accomplishments to sends he shares with other climbers. It would be interesting to see if he ever tries Recovery Drink next time he's in Norway. Not sure how far that climb is from Flatanger

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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