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Injury Prevention Books


Original Post
David Bruneau · · St. John · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,724

To people who've read "Make or Break" by Dave McLeod or "Climb Injury Free" by Jared Vagy, which one better explains how to prevent injuries? Does either book have info on wrist injuries, like ligament tears? 

Brent Apgar · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 70

Injury prevention is a myth... pushing your limits carries with it the risk of exceeding those limits and then bad things can happen.

If you really think it's a ligament injury(or TFCC tear) involving the carpals it would be worth getting a professional to take a look. With a true carpal ligament sprain/tear you're probably looking at some down time and then some kind of progressive loading protocol to stimulate the tissue to heal as well as some climbing exercises to fully reintegrate the injured part back into the kinetic chain.
cheers,
BA

David Bruneau · · St. John · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,724

Hey Brent, my injuries (both full scapholunate ligament tears) have been diagnosed, repaired and have healed for a while. However, I've had the same injury on both wrists now, so I'm interested in doing whatever I can to reduce the chances of the injury happening again. The process you've described is basically whats happened to me twice now. Cutting out dynamic bouldering on slopers seems like an obvious choice as this is what caused the injuries. All professionals I've talked to have had widely varying opinions about the physio requirements for the injury, so I was wondering if climbing specific information was available. It seems like a bit of a long shot...

Daniel Roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 25

Hi David,

I'm dealing with a wrist injury atm, a loud pop/crack went off while holding a sloper. Any advice on your recovery and getting back into climbing again? 

David Bruneau · · St. John · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,724

If its a serious ligament tear (like I had) or TFCC tear, which both sound possible from your description, you may need surgery to get it repaired. Both my wrist injuries were repaired surgically. I would recommend seeing a doctor who is a hand specialist as soon as possible, so the injury can be diagnosed properly. A GP won't be able to diagnose this injury correctly, from my experience

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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