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New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #6


Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Got up a grade 22 on top rope with about four sits. Very pumpy for me... 

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175

Wow... .it sounds like everyone is out for spring and finding places to get busy.  Like... coming out of hibernation... climbers everywhere!

I arrived back in Josh last night during a windstorm... just my kind of 'weather'.  Things banging and crashing about outside all night.  Lizards, chipmunks all out and playing this morning, Joshua Trees seem to all be in bloom, and blankets of yellow and purple flowers everywhere.  

Seems that this trip for me will possibly about getting a little more serious about climbing.  New places/crags coming up without trusted guides... so what can I learn here, now?  Hopefully it will all unfold as my curiosity unfolds... at about the pace I can handle it.  Meanwhile... I'm looking at the long list of Poodle climbs, and still think I should get after those, one after the other.  

Not to put too much emphasis on this... but the one question mark I have is what to do with Jeremy... that young man who is a really good climber, (according to many 'the best' here)... personally I'd prefer to belay him and WATCH him do his thing.  He's packed and leaving for the season in Yosemite... but for some reason, gave me Easter Day--the last day he'll be here.  How can it not be one more boring day of guiding for him... and what can I ask to learn?  

One thing I have learned from Jeremy's videos, and watching ANY good climber, is how controlled and precise they are.  There is just no margin for error.  I'll bet it would be much the same watching Jeff.  Some of us may never come close to the muscle and strength of these climbers, but we can work on precision foot and hand work--and pulling those hips in.    (note to self...)

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 145
Lori Milas wrote: I arrived back in Josh last night during a windstorm... just my kind of 'weather'.  Things banging and crashing about outside all night.  Lizards, chipmunks all out and playing this morning, Joshua Trees seem to all be in bloom, and blankets of yellow and purple flowers everywhere.  

Not to put too much emphasis on this... but the one question mark I have is what to do with Jeremy... that young man who is a really good climber, (according to many 'the best' here)... personally I'd prefer to belay him and WATCH him do his thing.  He's packed and leaving for the season in Yosemite... but for some reason, gave me Easter Day--the last day he'll be here.  How can it not be one more boring day of guiding for him... and what can I ask to learn?  

Pictures of the blooming Joshua trees please!

Re: Jeremy - he wouldn't be climbing with you if he wasn't into it. Not every climber has to be climbing at their limit all of the time - perhaps he enjoys mentoring and teaching, helping others learn? If he climbs full time and is heading to Yos he is probably planning climbing with you as a rest day. So the thing to do with Jeremy is to accept him climbing with you as a gift, climb with him, and learn as much as you can from him. If he is putting up ropes for you, you will have the opportunity to belay and watch him climb as well.

The other thing is he may not want you belaying him on anything hard if he hasn't climbed with you before and since you are relatively new. Others have mentioned before that belaying has as much of a learning curve as climbing (sometimes I think more almost) and I'm not sure (from your posts) how practiced you might be at lead belaying and catching lead falls.

What to ask to learn? What do you want to learn? You have been working on technique - so maybe ask him to watch your footwork. What types of routes do you struggle on most? Ask him if you can try something in that style?

I've taken clinics with pros like Jonathan Siegrist before, and I learned a lot from him about headspace and approach for redpointing hard routes (5.15 for him, 5.11 for me). Maybe he was bored climbing with me, but my sense was he enjoys teaching and he signed up to teach a clinic to chuffers like me! :)

Have a wonderful week Lori!
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 903

Lori? If I was going on about "why would someone that good ever be willing to climb with me", what would you say to me, eh? You wouldn't let me get away with that.

Because he wants to. Period.

Enjoy, ma'am. Your little heartthrob is part of your family now!

Best, Helen

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175
Old lady H wrote: Lori? If I was going on about "why would someone that good ever be willing to climb with me", what would you say to me, eh? You wouldn't let me get away with that.

Because he wants to. Period.

Enjoy, ma'am. Your little heartthrob is part of your family now!

Best, Helen

I'm going to beat 'someone' to the punch and say it's MONEY.  It's a job, and they need money to go have fun.  And that's ok with me, because I don't do my job for free, either... and there's some people I wouldn't work for, no matter how much money.  So, it's money, and being out with nice people.  It probably doesn't hurt that I'm a fan... and admire his work.  

I COULD ask him to put me up on Cutting Edge.    Bring a ladder, a good strong top rope, and haul me up halfway... and let me flounder the rest of the way but there'd be a photo op in there somewhere, and I could claim a "5th Ascent"!!!.  Airbrush out the top rope... and BOOM! Cover of AARP BABY!!!    

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 628
Kevin and I out on the fringes of the outdoors 
SeƱor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Who knows, Lori. Maybe there's something Jeremy wants to learn from you? Or maybe he's just happy to have a day of work.

The real question is the one Erika raised. What do you want from the day?

Rokjox Teleski · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 15

I lean towards the people laughing at my suggestion of a snakebite kit.  I never carried one and still dont.  Just said they were available ... and I specifically said you  MUST use it in under two minutes or forget it.  The "Mock V" test injected the fluid in at least a centimeter with a hypo, then waited THREE minutes to even begin the pump... and I wonder how agressively they used teh pump?   (The ones with rubber suck caps are useless completely...)   A snake might not get that deep and consistant a bite in real life.

But my father used one in the late 60s, then drove himself 60 miles to the closest Doc over dirt roads.  Times used to be different.

Nowadays you can buy antivenom direct.  Carry a shot in your chalkbag.   Thats a real suggestion.  If you are really worried. Or sensitive...

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 628
Around 1300$ for one Vial you need 20 to 30 vials 20 to 30K So ROkjox is just blowing wind up our ---. Meanwhile we’re slamming in new routes.
Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175

Wow. Surprisingly difficult day of climbing. The first 5.4 route was very hard. Finally found my sea legs and muscled up some cracks but by no means easy. Then a confounding chimney which felt like it’s intent was to exhaust all the OTHER muscles that weren’t already overtaxed. Glad I wore a long-sleeved shirt because my back and knees got pretty scraped up.

But I’m always looking at slab. We set up three long slab routes in increasing grades... finally it just feels like you’re walking up the impossible... featureless almost vertical rock with microscopic toe holds. Not a slip, just intense concentration... as close as I ever get to a “zone”.  

And then I drove out to receive a text that Notre Dame was burning. Tears before I could stop them. Somehow it seemed to fit the day, and fit the time of darkness within my church.

I can’t take climbing selfies... but these are the images that will remain with me today.

I forgot to mention that I downclimbed some of the routes I climbed... just to make sure I’d be miserable tonight.


Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

STILL can't get my little V6 project! Every time I think I can't get and closer I DO get closer but no send. Literally falling off the last hold of a 25 move Traverse and then up.
Oh well, after a rest day and with better conditions maybe? 

Carl Schneider · · Adelaide, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Doin' da chillinz' in mah tree....
Note the built in can holder in mah shirt!

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175
Carl Schneider wrote: Doin' da chillinz' in mah tree....
Note the built in can holder in mah shirt!

I met a dude yesterday out climbing with a strong Aussie accent but insisted he was from Boston. He probably is from Boston but that wasn’t a Boston accent.  I mentioned Adelaide and he perked right up... 

He and his girlfriend had a large dog with them... not allowed in the Park at climbing areas. Maybe they allow dogs in Boston.   
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 628
Have a nice day!
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 903
Jeffrey Constine wrote:
Have a nice day!

That looks so fun! Does it top out on that really blank bit? The lower part looks sorta doable, to me....maybe. But the approach.... :-(

It looks like my end date for employment is about to get set. I'm working towards meeting some of you, and really looking forward to it!

Best, Helen
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 628

Yes it tops out on the slab Uncle Remus 11b Joshua Tree Np 

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 181

3 days in Alabama Hills.  I was thinking it may be rinky dink since it doesn't have much mult-pitch, wrong.  Great Place to camp and climb. Perfect weather.

Barbara thought the approaches were great, talk about your bumper belay.



Most of the boondocking sights on the other side of the canyon had someone in them so we ended up "camping" at Pauls Backyard.  I made sure to leave enough room for other climbers to park, and they did. Never got crowded.



We sampled some the local beverages.


Barb has some PTSD from her fall at Ft. Davis,  she would get to a thin place and freak out a little.  Fortunately we were sport climbing so I could lower her and then either retrieve gear with the clip stick or cheat to the finish.  Then she turned around an nailed a 10a on top rope.  It will take many climbs before her confidence comes back to where it was.

In the mean she had told me that I can now graduate to leading 5.4 sport climbs.  Trad too if she gets a chair to rest in while belaying me, I just take forever to get gear placed.  

We've had some setbacks so will be changing our plans for the summer.  May is still Cove Palisades/Smith Rock, after that is up on the air.  

I could definitely go back to Alabama Hills.  I think new shoes will be in our near future, the crystal granite chewed through what little was left of the soles of our shoes, both hers and mine.

Lori, Jeremy's motives, sometimes simple is the truth, good company and climbing, nothing more.
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Not coming to the Gunks any more?  Was looking forward to meeting you!

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 628
rgold wrote: Not coming to the Gunks any more?  Was looking forward to meeting you!

Shouldn’t it be more like looking forward to climbing with you

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 175

SO GLAD everyone is out and about. This trip to Josh has so far been difficult and hard.  Perhaps I’m having a reality check that there are things off limits, and routes I can’t touch—and it has to be ok.
I’ve spent half my time sidelined with blood sugar highs and lows. Could not climb this morning at all because of wipeout from yesterday... so lost Double Cross AGAIN.  Sunburn, gear, weird exhaustion just seem to be the theme right now.
Perhaps I need an attitude adjustment.   
Learning how to stem on a dihedral today... felt really unsteady but stuck to it!  Face climbing a bit easier and learning shoulder rolls for pulling.  
But look at this magnificent creature below that I can only admire but not climb. I believe it is a 12c and 10a crack system... Leave It To Beaver and Lobster?  Not sure, will have to look it up later.  


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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