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Carver Climbing Abuse


Original Post
Ryan Connole · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Cigarettes, dogs, and ethics. Everyone that climbs at Carver should know better. You signed a waiver to climb on private property (or did you? Maybe follow the rules) agreeing to not have the above items (ethics...). Leaving ropes on routes for hours is the least of this tiny crag’s problems. Altering Rubicon is an abomination. It was definitely a “climber,” if you will. As Portland has become over grown in population, it’s new and old residents’ respect for others and things of sacred nature (yes, Carver) is abysmal. I’m saddened.

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

I agree, the chizeling on Rubicon is obscene. Are the cigarettes and dogs specific to climbers or random walkers?

Dyer Healy · · Bozeman · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

I understand your sadddness about the abuse thats happening at Carver, but ever been to Rocky Butte? There would be a hose of tears running down your face if you saw some of the stuff happening there. Bolts being chopped by some of the local home owners for no reason, the base of the cliff is quite literally a dump, there are several homeless camps, not to mention the strange people that somehow end up at the edge of the cliff. Are ethics dead, maybe, maybe not. 

Ryan Connole · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Let’s not compare Rocky Butte... I’ve been. Here’s the bottom line: everyone climbing at Carver should have their Carver card. In doing so they have agreed to the criteria there in stated (aka dogs, children, music, smoking etc) allowing the owners to not be responsible for climbers being hurt and their customers (bridge cliff inn) happy as well. 3 sets of climbers had dogs, saw none smoking but picked up butts per usual around the crag. Clipped bolts can be replaced, that rock took centuries.

Alex Milton · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

While we could just bitch around on MP (and it's been winter, so who isn't a little grumpy) I think we should talk solutions instead. I'm pretty new to the crag, but work by it so I think I'll find myself here more frequently this season. The people I've confronted at carver have no idea they're breaking rules, or that they need to get a card. Signage would be a big help. There's one big sign that lets us know rock climbing is dangerous, but a sign at the top of each trail to the cliff would be an easy and I would guess effective fix for most of the people who see it listed on MP or the old guidebook, and then just show up without a clue that they're breaking rules. If there are signs, I haven't noticed them which tells me they need to be more in your face. I'm no signsmith, designer, nor able to independently fund the creation of such signs, but I would be willing to contribute what I can in time or money. I'm not too familiar with how the "club" operates, and what funds if any could be contributed through there but I'll shoot off an email.

In the rrg I climbed at crags that were on private property with similar rules, and it was nigh impossible not to miss the signage. If that didn't deter you, the local community actively policing the area and checking for your paperwork was definitely going to make sure you knew you were not to be there. 

Obviously, they're will still be those that flout the rules and as a community we need to do something about that as well. Ban them from the property, tow their cars, fart in their general direction, I'm not as sure of a solution on that one. And as far as the chipping goes, it fucking sucks but I have no solutions. 

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

In case anyone want’s to know what we’re talking about. This is literally 5 feet off the ground.... on a 5.9

Jono Lewis · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 10
Max Rausch wrote: In case anyone want’s to know what we’re talking about. This is literally 5 feet off the ground.... on a 5.9

Why do people do this?

Ryan Connole · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
Jono Lewis wrote:

Why do people do this?

It created traction to clip the first bolt. Why? I don’t know. 

Signage for Carver membership is something that could be brought up to the owners I assume. 
Conversation here is where change can start. Thanks all.
George Hayduke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 65
Max Rausch wrote: In case anyone want’s to know what we’re talking about. This is literally 5 feet off the ground.... on a 5.9

What is it? Chalk? 

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195
George Hayduke wrote:

What is it? Chalk? 

No. Deeply carved grooves. 

Ryan Connole · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
Max Rausch wrote:

No. Deeply carved grooves. 

This needs a thumbs down icon...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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