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BEST 4-PITCH (ish) IN RR


Original Post
Barndawg TheFirst · · London · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 30

Going to be in the vicinity from 22nd onward. Was wondering what people thought the best short-ish multipitch (around 4 pitches) routes were... just to get the old head into gear before tackling the big days out. Always get really good suggestions on here! 

Justin Laursen · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 490

Birdland (5.7). It falls into the "ish" category, but also well into the "best" category.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 507

There are a few 4 pitch routes on the lotta balls wall. Black magic and lotta balls both get stars in the guidebook. 

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 165

To echo previous posters: Birdland, Lotta Balls, Black Magic are great (and very popular), also think of Johnny Vegas, Frogland (6 pitches, but goes fast), Cat in the Hat (go as high as you want, then rap, but be respectful to other parties), several routes on the Angel Food Wall (Tunnel Vision, Group Therapy, Pureblind Pillar: all about 6 pitches, but go very fast), Cookie Monster, and the list goes on. These are all easy to moderate, if you want stouter suggestions just ask!

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Dark Shadows

Brett Millard · · Kelowna, BC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 5

Geronimo would be perfect

Jeff G. · · Lyons · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 927

Risky Business is amazing - it's 4 pitches
The Night Crawler is one of the best routes in RR - 4 pitches
Black Magic (better than lotta balls IMO)
Y2K

Big B · · Sin City, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1
Barndawg TheFirst wrote: Going to be in the vicinity from 22nd onward. Was wondering what people thought the best short-ish multipitch (around 4 pitches) routes were... just to get the old head into gear before tackling the big days out. Always get really good suggestions on here! 

what grade?

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,256

Jackrabbit Buttress could be the oyster of your pearl...

bkozak · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 70

Sadly there is a chance of rain in the forecast for March 20-21, so I'll be the first to ask that you please don't climb if it ends up being wet.  But if it ends up not raining or being a light rain, your best bet is to climb at sunny areas first after waiting a day or two.  Birdland will dry out super fast, whereas Dark Shadows will not.  Also, Olive Oil is 4-5 pitches and is an awesome climb.

Barndawg TheFirst · · London · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 30
bkozak wrote: Sadly there is a chance of rain in the forecast for March 20-21, so I'll be the first to ask that you please don't climb if it ends up being wet.  But if it ends up not raining or being a light rain, your best bet is to climb at sunny areas first after waiting a day or two.  Birdland will dry out super fast, whereas Dark Shadows will not.  Also, Olive Oil is 4-5 pitches and is an awesome climb.

absolutely - we realistically won't be climbing these prior to the 24th. 

Xan Calonne · · Joshua Tree, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 35

+1 for Risky Business. The best!

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 12,388
Jeff G. wrote: Risky Business is amazing - it's 4 pitches
The Night Crawler is one of the best routes in RR - 4 pitches
Black Magic (better than lotta balls IMO)
Y2K

+1 for this list. All great ones. 

Josh Cameron · · M.O.A.B. · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,120

Dark Shadows: Feels super steep but holds abound (5.8 but not sustained)
Geronimo: Feels like an adventure climb but it's all quality. Cool area. Watch out for chickenheads grabbing your ropes when you pull them (5.5)
Johnny Vegas: An awesome climb in an absolutely beautiful canyon. A "new" classic. (5.7)

James Gustafson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 10

An excellent 5.9 option is Saddle Up, very diverse and thought provoking with access to brownstone wall.

Barndawg TheFirst · · London · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 30
Big B wrote:

what grade?

5.8/5.9 is my feeling. I know my partner will want to get into the early 10s later in the week. 

I actually got on Risky Business which my partner was well able to do, but I bottled out of on p2. The hardest thing I've ever led on trad is a single pitch 10c, so it's not all that surprising really. Nightcrawler, for instance, looks absolutely mindblowing, but I reckon a bit beyond me.

I loved Dark Shadows and led all the (4) pitches of that.  

Obviously, I don't want to spend the whole time pottering either.

Great suggestions so far, thanks to all! 
Big B · · Sin City, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1

Saddle Up, Lotta Balls, Black Magic, Ginger Cracks(longer but you can rap anytime), Refried Brains, Beulahs, Great Red Book(only 2p, but worth it) ...... oh and the new one Kentucky Yeet is putting in next to BBW & PG ;)

Barndawg TheFirst · · London · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 30

thanks Big B :) Ginger Cracks on my wishlist definitely. Have climbed GRB, but want to do it again as I led p1 last time. My buddy is arriving Saturday early PM so I reckon it'll be a good option. Was really fun last time. Except for that we tried to walk off climber's right. That was a bit of an epic. But lets not talk about that. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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