Mountain Project Logo

Ice screw issue


Original Post
wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

One of my Petzl screws has a bit of corrosion or something on the front inch or so. Thought it was just cosmetic but last weekend the same screw got welded in place about 1/2 way in and wouldn’t go further. We lead 15 pitches and it only happened twice and with the same screw.

Was in hylite with a buddy last week and I had a similar issue with one of his screws which looked similar.

Any recommendations on fixing this?  It almost looks like there is some plating that came off rather than just a simple corrosion issue so not sure if polishing it will solve my problem. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,810

That's definitely the failure of the plating. There's not much you can do to truly fix it. If it's new, you could ask Petzl about getting it replaced, but IME they tend to be exceptionally non-accommodating when it comes to screw defects.

Mike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 10
Cortney LeNeave · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2015 · Points: 6

was going to suggest that you could pay to have it re-plated @ a local shop but honestly it may be just as or more expensive than a new screw.

that sucks, sorry...

Mulch · · New Jersey · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 201

Shouldn't be a problem aside from your screw not looking nice and pretty anymore. A lot of my screws have that same issue but still go in the ice the same as when I bought them.

Nolan Huther · · Potsdam, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 530

A partner had a similar issue, except the front inch on two of his screws had lost lots of their plating in a matter of a week. It lined up almost perfectly with where the caps sit. My theory is that the screws got wet (this did happen, we got soaked on a climb and bailed) and then he capped them while they were still wet, and then he left the caps on for a week, trapping the water in the caps. I would be surprised if the plating (chromium?) could corrode that fast but that was my best guess. Maybe our water is just a touch acidic or has lots of ions/salts. Perhaps someone with better chemistry knowledge could comment on this. Gunkiemike?

What has obviously happened now is that the plating has exposed the steel of the screws in those spots. Steel will corrode more quickly, so make sure your affected screws are dry at the end of every day just for good practice. This might help keep you from slowly losing more plating. Probably a good idea with any piece of gear that's made of steel is to make sure its dry when it gets packed away waiting for the next adventure.

Roots · · Redmond. OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

plenty of ice screws are on sale right now...

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Sent Petzl pics and looks like there is a decent chance they will warranty it!

I have like 18 other Petzl screws and only had an issue with this one

I put my screws in front of the forced air vent when I get home but it’s possible this one didn’t fully dry.  Either way I’m stoked they might help me out.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Ice screw issue "

Log In to Reply