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Advice for not getting wrecking ball'd by you climber?


Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,698

Low first draws aside, what difference does it make how tall the walls are? The same hazards exist down low on any sport route, regardless of how high the final anchors are. Sure, in a short gym, you're spending a larger percentage of your time in the danger zone, but that zone exists at the beginning of every route, does it not?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Andrew Krajnik wrote: Low first draws aside, what difference does it make how tall the walls are? The same hazards exist down low on any sport route, regardless of how high the final anchors are. Sure, in a short gym, you're spending a larger percentage of your time in the danger zone, but that zone exists at the beginning of every route, does it not?

Everyone knows that gravity is stronger on short walls.

NegativeK · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 35
Andrew Krajnik wrote: Low first draws aside, what difference does it make how tall the walls are? The same hazards exist down low on any sport route, regardless of how high the final anchors are. Sure, in a short gym, you're spending a larger percentage of your time in the danger zone, but that zone exists at the beginning of every route, does it not?

I read it less as "this is unsafe" and more as "why are you bothering".

SeƱor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Andrew Krajnik wrote: Low first draws aside, what difference does it make how tall the walls are? The same hazards exist down low on any sport route, regardless of how high the final anchors are. Sure, in a short gym, you're spending a larger percentage of your time in the danger zone, but that zone exists at the beginning of every route, does it not?

Everett read my intention perfectly. It's only "less safe" if they've got the first clip ridiculously low. But if your "lead climb" consists of 50% "must not fall" and another two clips of meh, AND it's bothering you, well, then, why bother? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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