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Crete, Croatia, Slovakia or Slovenia?


Original Post
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 289

Hi all,
Looking into a June trip to Europe, hoping for some family friendly sport cragging, mostly in the 5b-6a range. I'm familiar with a number of spots that fit the bill, but we're looking for somewhere new and a little off the beaten path.

Does anyone have experience with Crete, Croatia, Slovakia or Slovenia as spots for a trip like that?

Thanks,
David
the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 115

Slovakia?  There is no sport climbing in Slovakia. There is alpine trad however in the Tatras. There is mediocre limestone sport next door in the Moravia region of the Czech Republic, which includes the unrepeated 15c Vasil Vasil. Further afield you have the Frankenjura, which is fantastic.  

However, perhaps you meant to ask about Slovenia, which has amazing sport climbing, especially around the town of Osp.

In the 5s and 6s I'd recommend Paklenica NP in Croatia.

I know nothing of Crete. 

Kubi A · · New York, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

There is plenty of sport climbing in Slovakia: http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Eastern-Slovakia-Rock-Climbing-Guidebook.html

Having been to (but not climbed in) all of those places, you might also want to consider other factors, like natural beauty, food, and other attractions. My own list would be 1) Croatia, 2) Crete, 3) Slovakia. You might also want to consider Sardinia, which has amazing climbing right on the beach. Pretty sweet. 

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 289
the schmuck wrote: Slovakia?  There is no sport climbing in Slovakia. There is alpine trad however in the Tatras. There is mediocre limestone sport next door in the Moravia region of the Czech Republic, which includes the unrepeated 15c Vasil Vasil. Further afield you have the Frankenjura, which is fantastic.  

However, perhaps you meant to ask about Slovenia, which has amazing sport climbing, especially around the town of Osp.

In the 5s and 6s I'd recommend Paklenica NP in Croatia.

I know nothing of Crete. 

Ha you're absolutely right about Slovakia/Slovenia issue. The guidebook link below uses a mixture of the two names in the description! Thanks for the beta I'll change thread title

http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Eastern-Slovakia-Rock-Climbing-Guidebook.html​​​
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 289

Now confused for sure on the Slovakia Slovenia issue... 

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 115

Okay, I stand corrected. Perhaps there is great sport in Slovakia. I'm from the area, and most local sport climbers end up in Austria or the Frankenjura.  I'd be interested in how good it actually is, since I make it back there every few years or so, and Slovakia is definitely missing off of my tick list.

Still, how did you decide on Slovakia? Sešte Slovák?  If I wanted an off the beaten path destination, I'd look at Bulgaria, Romania or Bosnia.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 289

Just discussed with Climb Europe, it is indeed SloVAKIA, so now the Shmuck has a brand new possibility for a future climbing trip! 

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 115

Slovenia is truly world class, however. 

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 289
the schmuck wrote: Slovenia is truly world class, however. 

I'm all for world class! Slovakia curiosity was due to email announcing that new guidebook. 

How are the Slovenian climbing areas you visited in terms of activities for non climbers? 
BryanV Vernetson · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 120

I would recommend Croatia.  Paklenica is great for what you are looking for and to the south, Split is amazing with climbing nearby.  Rest day activities are fantastic as well.  PM me for any beta on climbing, lodging, etc.

Paklenica climbing near the espresso bar
Espresso bar in Paklenica
Climbing in Marjan Park near Split
Krka National Park
the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 115

So, in Slovenia we did the Osp/Misja Pec/Crni Kal area. Except for Crni Kal, these areas really shine starting at about 7a, though there are good routes bellow that. As for non-climbing activities, Piran is a cool beach town, Ljubljana is worth exploring, and there are some really impressive commercial caves. Osp itself has some historical frescoes that are interesting. Croatia may be a better destination for non climbers though. 

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

We did a trip recently from germany to croatia and back. Slovenia and Croatia fit the bill. Paklenika is super easy access and chill with routes in the range you describe. The places we checked out in slovenia were def more geared towards harder overhung stuff like osp. Cool to check out new places though either way. I'd have liked to spend more time in paklenica.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 15,382
Optimistic wrote:

I'm all for world class! Slovakia curiosity was due to email announcing that new guidebook. 

How are the Slovenian climbing areas you visited in terms of activities for non climbers? 

Slovenia might be kinda limited at your grade range...although there is some fun climbing at the 5 and 6 level especially nearer to Piran (which is an awesome hang for non and climbers).

Slovenia has fun touristy stuff to do.  Caves and cave tours.  The beach.  Ljubljana is a fun hang.

Croatia for sure.  In spades.  Great climbing, tons of crags.  Cities to tour like Dubrovnik and Split.  Islands.  Beaches.  Plitvice.  Side trip to Mostar.

Crete would be good but from what I've seen, I kinda like the looks of the rock climbing venues in especially Croatia.  That said, plenty of fun to be had.  Great canyoning, canyon hikes, Knossis if you're into history.

Can't speak to Slovakia but note the new guidebook mentioned above.  No beach (it that's a draw or not).
Ioana Acsinia · · Romania · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Hi,

Romania has a lot of sport climbing areas. Not crowded at all & also in the grade interval you mentioned. Most of them are realtively newly bolted, in accessible places. The climbing areas are spread out across the country.
Some of the biggest would be Baile Herculane (where Petzl rock trip was a couple of years ago), areas around Cluj Napoca (Suncuius, Cheile Turzii, Rametea), lots of crags in the area of Brasov city (Aboland, Tamina, Moroeni etc.)

The thing is we don’t really have good printed topos. There's only one for Brasov area. You will see information about climbing there spread out accross wesites such as 8a.nu (e.g. 8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx… )
Other info sources:
http://herculaneclimbing.ro
https://www.climbromania.com/Default.aspx
http://eclimb.ro/
http://rimeteaclimbingopen.ro/

If any of you wants to visit the country for climbing, message me. I can give you some tips and tricks.

Have a wonderful day! 

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 289
Kubi A wrote: There is plenty of sport climbing in Slovakia: http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Eastern-Slovakia-Rock-Climbing-Guidebook.html

Having been to (but not climbed in) all of those places, you might also want to consider other factors, like natural beauty, food, and other attractions. My own list would be 1) Croatia, 2) Crete, 3) Slovakia. You might also want to consider Sardinia, which has amazing climbing right on the beach. Pretty sweet. 

Have you climbed in Crete, and if so how was it? The options looked maybe a little limited from what I've found so far. Sardinia is absolutely on the overall list, just not this particular trip. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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